Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

1. What's the length of a Vanquisher barrel? I uh...have a model 88mm anti tank gun that fits beautifully but it's defiantly three times the length of an average LRBT's gun. But it fits sooooo good, and looks so good. I just need to know where to measure from.

2. Related to this little mad house of mine the tank in question has a resin figure on it, and she has no paint on her, but the tank despertly needs stripping (It's an ebay salvage tank, I'm just going crazy with it making it a Vanquisher inspired by Tank Girl...>.>...soooo yeah...also filled the enormous gaps in the model and fixed alot of damage the best I could.) but I'm worried my normal go to of easy off oven cleaner might be harmful to resin.

WIP pics and mind the mess was taking these and cleaning the table at the same time. My insanity in converting is similar to my insanity in cooking...

http://www.majhost.com/gallery/KingmanTKT/Misc/dscf1269.jpg
http://www.majhost.com/gallery/KingmanTKT/Misc/dscf1268.jpg
http://www.majhost.com/gallery/KingmanTKT/Misc/dscf1270.jpg

A vanquisher should be about half that at the most.

Yeah but where 'in game wise' would I measure from? The recoil point in the middle?

Soooo still need some advice here...

Going on the Forgeworld turrets I have, the Gryphonne IV turret, the recoil cylinder portion is about 3.9cm and the remainder of the barrel prior to the muzzle brake is 3.5cm.

The Ryza barrel is 1.9cm for the recoil cylinder and about 4.2cm for the barrel itself before the muzzle brake.

For the barrel you have, I'd say if you cut from that middle larger cylinder back and mounted everything forward of that, you'd be about the right length, but that's going by eye.

That gun is pretty cool!
I used a military model gun for my vanquisher too, but IMHO the standard LR battle cannon sticks out too far forwards, never mind the huge vanquisher cannon.
To solve this I moved the whole turret assembly back a bit & extended the tank back a bit to make it look more 'balanced', maybe you could relocate the turret further back, with that cannon it would fit the model nicely.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/231744-Conversion%2C%20Imperial%20Guard%2C%20Leman%20Russ.html

What's the mini on top? It looks transparent...

@Nuggz, I got her and her sister (soon to be Vendetta pilot) from porkuslime, they are from this line: http://www.shapeways.com/model/622961/female-mining-gang-members-with-revolvers.html?li=productBox-search

And she is resin so I want to make sure when I strip the tank I don't melt her.

@Daedricbob, That is wicked, what gun did you use? Also I don't think I have the parts neccessary to push the turrent back and extend it like yours, I did think about building a tripod brace like I've seen on some artillery and tank destroyers.

So...resin + easy off....go or no go?

Shapeways products are not resin, they re 3d printing medium more similar to plastic. I'd recommend just removing the figure before stripping the paint since it's not already painted.

I've heard that oven cleaner can damage some plastics though I've never stripped a 3d print like that so I can't tell you for sure.

Simple Green, Purple Power, or LA's Totally Awesome would be safer alternatives with less risk of damaging your model.

Always test on a less noticeable area first.

That particular material is a UV cured acrylic resin. You should be able to strip them with Easy Off or other alkaline strippers fine. Simple Green would be safer as I am not sure how the porous nature (relatively) would react to the potassium hydroxide. As of yet, I havent had to strip any of my prints (usually they are cleaned up and used as masters for mold creaton) so...should, may not be certain.