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Made in gb
Tough Traitorous Guardsman






I've just bought a fair few Necromunda Escher models, and I was planning on swapping out some of the heads on duplicates with these: http://www.brother-vinni.com/gallery/28mm/fem-heads.htm

The problem is I haven't had much experience with working with metal models, and I don't know what sort of tools are needed. What do you guys use to remove the heads (or other bits) of metal models while doing as little damage as possible.
I'm in the UK so any suggestions on where to buy an appropriate tool here as cheaply as possible would be appreciated.

And also do you guys think those particular head would work well?
   
Made in au
Matthew Ward




I use a hacksaw and they are fairly quick and affordable, most hardware stores should have them, in Australia at least, not sure about UK but you should be able to find one fairly easily.

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Made in sa
Longtime Dakkanaut





Dundee, Scotland/Dharahn, Saudi Arabia

Don't use a hacksaw, the kerf (the slot made by the cutting blade) is quite large for small scale models.
You need a razor saw, or jewellers saw.
You should be able to pick one up in a model shop quite cheaply.
I would also recommend getting a small modellers vice to hold the model to be cut as this will make for a more accurate cut as the model will be held steady.

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Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I second the razor saw approach. You can pick up the blades for pennies each off Ebay.

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Made in gb
Tough Traitorous Guardsman






Can you point me to a good one? I'm afraid I'm fairly ignorant when it comes to saws, what would I need to buy to go with a blade?
Would Modelzone sell what I'm after?
   
Made in us
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Minnesota, USA



I use a saw like this one. I had it left over from an art metals course I took at university and it has been serving me well.

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Made in us
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot





Raleigh, NC

these

There are different sizes, I'm not even sure which size I have, but they will very cleanly go right through metal minis and do it without leaving a gigantic cut... but you'll go through a fair number of blades.

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Made in us
Raging Ravener




Oklahoma City, Oklahoma

zuui's got the best tool for this job, I've been using one for years and they give the best control and smallest loss of material when cutting.

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Made in us
Navigator





Be aware there's a bit of a learning curve o jeweler's saws. Not much, but expect to break a few blades until you get the hang of it.

That said, I use a Jewelers saw far more than I have ever used my razor saw. I only use the razor saw when I use the included miter box mine came with.
   
Made in us
Nurgle Chosen Marine on a Palanquin





 Alleton wrote:
Be aware there's a bit of a learning curve o jeweler's saws. Not much, but expect to break a few blades until you get the hang of it.


+1. Most important thing is that the blade needs to be pre-tensioned when you put it in the saw. To do this, put the blade in place with teeth facing up and tighten one end. The put the saw between your body and your work bench and push on it a bit while tightening the other end of the blade. This makes the blade nice and tight.

When cutting, the blade needs to be held perfectly vertical. Position the mini so that the cut will be vertical. The bench pin in this auction allows support of the mini while holding the blade vertical:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/JEWELERS-SAW-FRAME-BENCH-PIN-SAW-BLADES-JEWELRY-KIT-/200597481549?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb48aa84d
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Better saws will have a tension screw to tighten the blade, some less expensive models use a spring steel frame to tension it in the manner you mention.

A good clamp is really handy, but I dont think I have ever heard anyone say you have to keep anything vertical, horizontal or otherwise. Normally I use my blade with it more or less horizontal...parallel to my work bench.

You do want to keep the blade from binding in you saw kerf. This happens when you angle the blade out of line with the existing kerf, and is a common cause of snapped blades. As long as you keep the blade inline with the kerf though...you can make curved cuts and what not pretty easily.
   
Made in jp
[MOD]
Anti-piracy Officer






Somewhere in south-central England.

A jeweller's saw is what you want. Don't worry too much about breaking blades. You can get a pack of 100 for a few pounds. The kerf is very small and you can get round corners to some degree which is impossible with other types of saw.

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Made in gb
Tough Traitorous Guardsman






Thanks for all of your helpful replies.
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

Just a suggestion, but arent the necromunda models out of production?
Would it not be a better idea to make a press mould of it and cut up a replica?

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Made in us
Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot





Los Angeles, CA, USA

They are still around and available. They are also some of the best models GW ever made in metal in my opinion.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/armySubUnitCats.jsp?catId=cat490066a&rootCatGameStyle=specialist-games
   
 
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