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After trying multiple different glue's, I am tired of models not staying together. Or just not being adhesive at all. What does the dakka community think the best glue for use with GW kits is?

I've been using LOCTITE super glue, professional liquid. It works well, the biggest issue is it is runny. Ultra Gel control also works really well for me, and isn't runny.

for plastic try the testor's plastic glue. It makes a permanent bond that sticks immediately. Only works with plastic to plastic bonding though.

For metal/resin I use gorilla super glue. I have found the bond to be the strongest and stick with the best alacrity. Remember though with all super glues the less you put the better as a thin layer will dry much faster and usually will be stronger.

I like Crazy Glue personally - super glue or gel. Bonds nicely and quickly, no foggy residue, cheap, and readily available just about anywhere office supplies are sold.

-- Haight

Dollar store super glue.
I have thrown metal mini's at the wall and them still not break

 hotsauceman1 wrote:
Dollar store super glue.
I have thrown metal mini's at the wall and them still not break

This. I buy mine from local IGA. $1.45 for two tubes. Works way better than GW glue and as well as Crazy, Kwik, or Gorilla.

I'll throw my hat in the ring of super cheap generic glue.

I personally like Armskeepers super gold + glue for my models.

I find for my regular plastic minis, that the bog standard GW thin super glue works well. For larger things like monsterous creqatures and such however I use high strengt super glue from one of the local hobby stores.

All superglue has the same active ingredient, and super glue is much, much better than plastic "glue". Therefore the best glue is the superglue you get for the lowest price.

This is what I get:



I only need to buy one or two of these a year, and that's with a LOT of conversion work that I do. Most people would be set for life... for $3...

I like this.

used this stuff since day 1.
It does not work on metal models.

 troa wrote:
I've been using LOCTITE super glue, professional liquid. It works well, the biggest issue is it is runny. Ultra Gel control also works really well for me, and isn't runny.

Been using this, too, recently.

It's probably my favorite glue for metal atm.

ComTrav wrote:

 troa wrote:
I've been using LOCTITE super glue, professional liquid. It works well, the biggest issue is it is runny. Ultra Gel control also works really well for me, and isn't runny.

Been using this, too, recently.

It's probably my favorite glue for metal atm.

yeah im using loctite super glue gel aswell great stuff, the worst iv had was the GW stuff.... that had models falling apart a month later :(

I myself use Zap-a-Gap. I have absolutely no issues with it. I've had models fall off a waist high table onto concrete and bounce when they hit the ground instead of breaking. That battlesuit felt like it took forever to fall...but he lived. I think I'll use it for metal as well now. I tried some epoxy my dad had in his shop, but it took so long to set I actually had to clamp my minis, and every single model has since broken.

The main complaint I have with it is that keeping the bottle clean and stopping the glue from sealing itself up is kind of annoying, but as long as you take care of the bottle (squeeze the air bubbles out after you're done and put the caps back on) it works pretty well.

Used the blue testors cement back when I just started, can't stand the stuff. The applicator felt too big, and I had to push the parts together for what seamed like forever for them to hold. The worst part was that they didn't just come apart if you didn't hold long enough. They stayed in position for a while so you thought they were good, then slowly "drooped down" over the next few minutes. I have a few fire warriors in my "box of horrors" with their heads hanging halfway down their chests for that very reason. They also caused fingerprints to get melted into my models if I ever got it on my hands then touched the models (as opposed to superglue which just peels the top layer of skin off my thumbs every time i go on a construction run).

 troa wrote:
I've been using LOCTITE super glue, professional liquid. It works well, the biggest issue is it is runny. Ultra Gel control also works really well for me, and isn't runny.

Yeah i use loctite on everything, plastics, finecast and resin.

Superglue, I am mainly using Gorilla at the moment with GF9 accelerator.
For plastic I use Revell Contacta.

The main thing about superglue is that you need flat clean surfaces, and small amounts of adhesive for good results.

 Ailaros wrote:
All superglue has the same active ingredient, and super glue is much, much better than plastic "glue". Therefore the best glue is the superglue you get for the lowest price.

This is what I get:



I only need to buy one or two of these a year, and that's with a LOT of conversion work that I do. Most people would be set for life... for $3...

Could you possibly send me a link to any site you know of that sells this please.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
What Super glues would you guys suggest for a Metal Hive Tyrant, had mine for 4 years roughly and still isn't together
Arldite didn't work, green stuff didn't work the best, GW super glue didn't work. Its been built multiple times, it just keeps failing apart D:

hey... this thread again...

Avoid Testors and Citadel glues. I prefer the BSI glues, they are probably the store brand at your FLGS. I also use Loctite super glues in a pinch.

Revell Contacta Professional.

Really strong bond, good positioning time, very fine dispenser tip, doesn't clog.

Seems a little expensive but you can build many thousands of points with one bottle. (my current one is on ~7K points and still going strong)

Personally, I'd avoid super glue - it'll always break under enough shock. Plastic glue won't do that.

I don't know if you have the same sort of stuff in the US, but I use Just good ol' pound shop Glue and none of my models have just fallen apart.

Plastic:
Always make sure the plastic surface is clear of paint or it will not work with model glues.
I found that cyoanoacrylate is not ideal because it is a surface bond rather than "weld".
Plastic/Bulk/gap fill:
Testors, best I have found for all model plastics, it actually causes the plastic to melt together, good for large surface areas to glue.
Plastic/Fine/good fit areas:
Tamiya green cap: wicks really nice into hard to reach areas and good for smoothing out areas where too much glue smeared.

Metal to metal or metal to plastic:
Always pin just to be sure.
Gorilla glue or Loctite Ultra Flex glue. Never failed me yet.

Added Notes
For Gap filling or encapsulation on anything (I use to hold washers in bases): Squadron green putty (ventilate well!)
Green Stuff is for those monstrous gaps when you should have returned the model or sculpting added detail.
In all cases it is a good idea to sand or "rough up" the surfaces being bonded: smooth surfaces tend to allow glues to peel off easily.