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Hey guys, I have been putting together materials for magnetizing my khador warjacks and just finished a couple of them. I am posting these photos up to help others in the process and to get some advice from other people.

Materials I am using: 1/4"x1/8" and 1/8"x1/8" Neodymium rare earth magnets (nickel plated). The 1/4" magnets have a pull force of around 2.7lbs, the 1/8" magnets have a pull force of about 1lb. Either is more than enough to hold a warjack's limbs together.

Super glue

Drill press/hand drill.

I found the most difficult part of this procedure seems to be drilling to the perfect depth. If you go too deep, your magnets will not have as strong of a bond, too shallow and you will have gaps in the joints - not too big a deal on the shoulders where the gap would be covered by the armor plates.

I have just finished two plastic kits, the khador juggernaut and the destroyer.




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Its really a simple process. I found that you need to use a punch to start a dimple in the center of where you want the hole to be. This will help guide your drill when starting the hole.

If you think you are almost to the right depth, STOP DRILLING. Insert a magnet into what you have already drilled and test fit it, then slowly remove small shavings of material until you are at the desired depth. Test fitting repeatedly is the key to getting a clean, solid model. Alternatively, you can measure the depth you want and wrap some electrical tape around the drill at the depth you will need to go. This way, you can see when hit that exact depth. You will still need to test fit to get it perfect though.

After you hit your depth, carefully use an xacto knife to trim the shavings around the hole and generally clean up the area.

Once the hole is clean, place a couple drops of super glue and spread it around the hole to get maximum surface contact with the magnet. These magnets have a very smooth surface, and maximum surface area is needed to ensure a good bond. You can also use some sand paper to rough up the surface of the magnet. This will increase surface contact by allowing the super glue to seep into the tiny grooves created by the sand paper. I have not found this to be very necessary though.

Once you place a magnet in one side of the joint and allowed the glue to cure, place another magnet on it, then score the side of the second magnet that is facing outward. I use a knife or file for this, but anything you can use to mark the side facing out should be fine. Remove the second magnet, and glue it with the marked side facing down in the opposite joint. This is quite critical - magnets have poles (North and South) that will repel each other (N repels N, S repels S). It is quite depressing to accidentally glue the two magnets in a shoulder joint with the same pole facing each other, as you will never get the magnets out again.

A few more pictures demonstrating the ability to position the limbs of the warjacks. I will be building a modular Torch kit next.


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I have a side question: Would people pay for this modification? These models are just documentation and test runs. A customer model would be much more precise and clean.

I've been magnetizing things for years. Some tips I have learned with warjacks:

Sometimes it is better to have one magnet indented and the corresponding magnet sticking out slightly. The extra friction will help keep things from falling off or flopping around. Also, on some tighter/smaller areas it allows you to use a larger magnet that might hold better.

Mark your drill bit with a permanent marker for the proper depth and then you don't have to worry about constantly checking the depth.

Use a permanent marker to mark the magnet poles. Might be easier that trying to scratch it with a knife or file. I actually have all my magnets stacked up and put a black mark on the "up" side so I always know which way they are supposed to go.

Use a metal cupholder or some other bit of metal to store your magnets on so they are not all over.

Try to find some non-metallic tools to use. I find toothpicks and a single chopstick handy for gluing the magnet in place and sometimes holding it in place while it sets.

I will say I like Hot Glue for sticking the magnets in. Sets really quickly, and will fill in any extra space around the magnet quite flush.

Thanks for the added info guys! I prefer marking poles by scuffing the surface with a file though, as it gives a better bonding surface whereas painting or inking a side will weaken the bond. Although, in such a small application, it probably doesn't matter much. My magnets are nickel plated so the surface is very smooth, almost mirror like. Glue doesn't stick as well to it as it would to a bare magnet. I added a challenging model to my list to be magnetized: my behemoth just broke it's JB weld joints...

The problem with filing the surface is that the smooth outside of neodymium magnets is just a coating. The magnet itself is incredibly brittle and crumbles if removed. Damaging the coating seems like a good way to accidentally destroy a magnet.

The magnets are brittle but they arent THAT brittle. I mean, they will crack and chip if you throw them at a hard surface, but they do not just crumble from regular handling. We use magnets everywhere at work - both coated and uncoated. They break from impacts but we have many without coatings that we use to pick up parts and hold things together.

a small X from a sharpie will hardly weaken any bond. If it does get in your way then wipe it off when you are done.

Also have had no trouble gluing my magnets into place. But I also like tight holes.

^^ I see whatcha did thar. Isnt this a "G" rated site? hahaha

I have a silly qeustion regarding this awesome tutorial, where is a good place to buy these magnets?

I ask because my LGS sells magnets, but the barely have the pull strength to keep parts together.

I ordered my last batch from Magnets4less.com. purchased 80 of various sizes for around 25$ shipped.