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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User



Sacramento, CA.

Hey all-

So I bought a Chaos Prince, and put him together adding in some of own ideas. Anyway, after putting him together, I'm looking at a big pile of bits. Almost enough to build another Prince. Almost....

So here's my question. I have a torso front, but no back! If I wanted to sculpt a back for said torso, what material would be best to do it with? Would green stuff work? Or for a large piece like that would I be better off using milliput (or something else)? Any advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks
   
Made in us
Been Around the Block




What ever putty you use will take time to dry.To shorten the process of drying place a chunk of plastic first on the back then apply your putty.By the way if you go to your local hardware store and ask for plumbers epoxy putty you will have a stick of putty as big around as a quarter and at least 10 inches long..The price is around 10 bucks, the same price you pay for that small piece of modeling epoxy from G.W.And it dries hard enough to carve.Yes it also mixes like green stuff the same way.Follow the instruction and you cant go wrong.Work quick and don't worry about neatness your sanding and carving anyway.Good luck and happy modeling.
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Vallejo, CA

Here's how I'd do it.

I'd go and get yourself some thin plasticard, something easy to cut. Then, comparing it to the actual bit from the actual model, I'd make what would essentially be a very oddly shaped plasticard box of slightly smaller dimensions. This will fill up most of your space.

Then I'd go over it with a bunch of GS to get it the right size, rather than too small, and to get it in the right, smooth shape (rather than the boxy creases of the plasticard.

Once you have the basic shape down, then you can go in and fix it up with GS to get it exactly how you want it, and after that, go in with more GS and apply whatever little details you want to make it match.

Kind of a pain, but it's plenty doable. And certainly cheaper than buying another demon prince.

By the way, how did you acquire a spare demon prince front without a matching back?



Your one-stop website for batreps, articles, and assorted goodies about the men of Folera: Foleran First Imperial Archives. Read Dakka's favorite narrative battle report series The Hand of the King. Also, check out my commission work, and my terrain.

Abstract Principles of 40k: Why game imbalance and list tailoring is good, and why tournaments are an absurd farce.

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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User



Sacramento, CA.

 Ailaros wrote:
Here's how I'd do it.

I'd go and get yourself some thin plasticard, something easy to cut. Then, comparing it to the actual bit from the actual model, I'd make what would essentially be a very oddly shaped plasticard box of slightly smaller dimensions. This will fill up most of your space.

Then I'd go over it with a bunch of GS to get it the right size, rather than too small, and to get it in the right, smooth shape (rather than the boxy creases of the plasticard.

Once you have the basic shape down, then you can go in and fix it up with GS to get it exactly how you want it, and after that, go in with more GS and apply whatever little details you want to make it match.

Kind of a pain, but it's plenty doable. And certainly cheaper than buying another demon prince.

By the way, how did you acquire a spare demon prince front without a matching back?


The Prince kit comes with 2 fronts. The armored version, and the bare chest version. I have a Trygon tail and an extra set of Prince wings begging to be turned into a Slaanesh Prince with 4 arms. Almost like Medusa.

While I have plenty of plasticard, you think that's better than just getting a nice chunk of putty and filling it in, then sculpting detail with GS? My experience with plasticard is still somewhat limited.
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Vallejo, CA

Don't worry about it. The plasticard is just there to make it so that you don't have to fill the whole thing with putty. If you want to fill the whole thing with putty, then disregard what I said.

I just live in a world of GS and plasticard, myself, and packing the entire cavity with GS would be a pretty expensive way of doing it, given how much GS you would have to use.


Your one-stop website for batreps, articles, and assorted goodies about the men of Folera: Foleran First Imperial Archives. Read Dakka's favorite narrative battle report series The Hand of the King. Also, check out my commission work, and my terrain.

Abstract Principles of 40k: Why game imbalance and list tailoring is good, and why tournaments are an absurd farce.

Read "The Geomides Affair", now on sale! No bolter porn. Not another inquisitor story. A book written by a dakkanought for dakkanoughts!
 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

May have spent a little too long in your plasticard world, Ailaros - think outside the styrene box! While your method would certainly work, I think it makes things more difficult than they need be.

Plasticard isn't the only option for filling up the space. As a kid, I used to make crumpled up aluminum foil "armatures" when mucking around with polymer clay. They really stretched those little bricks of Sculpey III way further than if I had tried to use them, exclusively. I used the same method when making the sack for my Santa Ork conversion - scrunched up a teardrop-shaped wad of foil, bent the tail roughly into shape, skinned it with a thin layer of GS, then detailed and joined it once the basic form had cured. Made the work easier (no big, mushy ball of putty developing flat spots or sagging before cured) and saved me quite a bit of putty in the process (would have used 3-4x as much for a putty-only sculpt).

Honestly, I'd choose foil over styrene, regardless of your comfort level with the latter material. Even a plasticard veteran will use up more time and effort and incur greater costs (negligible, probably, but still), only to end up with a less natural shape. Wadding up foil allows you to get close enough to your actual intended shape that there's no need for a "bulking out" stage - just skin it and detail. If packed tightly, the foil will be quite strong, too, giving you a rock solid base to work on.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in de
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





Babenhausen, Germany

I actually did create a second prince from the plastic box like that. I used aluminium foil pressed into the torso front and layered milliput on top. I also used milliput as the base of the custom legs i created - with foil wrapped wires as armature too.
The foil builds the bulk and the milliput a hard surface for additional details. It works quite well.

   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User



Sacramento, CA.

 btldoomhammer wrote:
I actually did create a second prince from the plastic box like that. I used aluminium foil pressed into the torso front and layered milliput on top. I also used milliput as the base of the custom legs i created - with foil wrapped wires as armature too.
The foil builds the bulk and the milliput a hard surface for additional details. It works quite well.


Awesome. I think I like the idea of packing foil and getting a semi-rough shape to work off of. What type of milliput did you use?
   
Made in de
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





Babenhausen, Germany

Create Chaos wrote:

Awesome. I think I like the idea of packing foil and getting a semi-rough shape to work off of. What type of milliput did you use?


Just the standard yellow one. It's really cheap and does a rather good job at filler and larger pieces. And mixing a bit of it into GS can make it smoother. So it has a double use.

   
 
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