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I am seeing all of these wonderful, custom, miniatures and I am wondering what type of modeling clay I can use to make extra details on my models. What kind of clay do I need?

Kneadatite Blue/Yellow also known as Green Stuff is good. Brown Stuff (Kneadatite Brown/Aluminum) cures harder so it is better for non-organic parts.

Then there is Milliput, Super Sculpey and other epoxy putties.

If you want to start from scratch, you can use polymer clays (Fimo for example). They need to be cured in the oven.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Kneadatites are also Epoxy putties.

 kaapelikala wrote:
Kneadatite Blue/Yellow also known as Green Stuff is good. Brown Stuff (Kneadatite Brown/Aluminum) cures harder so it is better for non-organic parts.

Then there is Milliput, Super Sculpey and other epoxy putties.

If you want to start from scratch, you can use polymer clays (Fimo for example). They need to be cured in the oven.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Kneadatites are also Epoxy putties.

Is it possible to use Wal-Mart brand acrylic paint on Green Stuff or Brown Stuff?


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 kaapelikala wrote:
Kneadatite Blue/Yellow also known as Green Stuff is good. Brown Stuff (Kneadatite Brown/Aluminum) cures harder so it is better for non-organic parts.

Then there is Milliput, Super Sculpey and other epoxy putties.

If you want to start from scratch, you can use polymer clays (Fimo for example). They need to be cured in the oven.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Kneadatites are also Epoxy putties.

Is it possible to use Wal-Mart brand acrylic paint on Green Stuff or Brown Stuff?

I'd suggest to start with green stuff. But i'd advise against buying it from GW (very expensive). Also if you need a decent amount of if i advise against the stripes and buy GS where both parts a reperated.
If you get the stripes it's best th cut the middle part away where both parts meet. It contains already cured putty that will get in the way on smaller details. But for larger areas it is still useable if you carfully avoid getting the hardened part to stick out of it.

And as milliput go it has a more sandy claylike feel to it where Kneadatite putties are more rubbery and flexible.


And just a small correction on the list above.
Super sculpey is a polymer clay and not an epoxy putty.

Epoxy putties are two part putty that cures when mixed.
Polymer clays are one part and need to be backed in an oven (not the best place for plastic miniatures to be )

Epoxy putty will take paint no problems, but treat it as if its any other model, it needs to be properly cured first, so leave it alone for a day maybe two (depends on the particular epoxy)

And then prime, and paint as you would any other figure.
If you used lots of petroleoum jelly as lubricant during the sculpting process, (or anything else that will mess with paint adhesion) be sure to wash it before you begin; just as you would resin pieces to remove the mold release.

Edit;
Personally I like to mix milliput and greenstuff together.
Gets me the best of both worlds; milliput cures harder, faster, and is sandable,but is brittle. While greenstuff cures with a bit of flex to it. Approx a 50-50 mix of the two gives a hard curing, sandable,slightly flexible cured product.

 btldoomhammer wrote:
I'd suggest to start with green stuff. But i'd advise against buying it from GW (very expensive). Also if you need a decent amount of if i advise against the stripes and buy GS where both parts a reperated.
If you get the stripes it's best th cut the middle part away where both parts meet. It contains already cured putty that will get in the way on smaller details. But for larger areas it is still useable if you carfully avoid getting the hardened part to stick out of it.

And as milliput go it has a more sandy claylike feel to it where Kneadatite putties are more rubbery and flexible.


And just a small correction on the list above.
Super sculpey is a polymer clay and not an epoxy putty.

Epoxy putties are two part putty that cures when mixed.
Polymer clays are one part and need to be backed in an oven (not the best place for plastic miniatures to be )

So, for example, if I wanted to make a Terminator devoted to Nurgle, I could make him have disgusting looking (in a good way ) bubbles and boils using Green Stuff?

 Squiddy wrote:

So, for example, if I wanted to make a Terminator devoted to Nurgle, I could make him have disgusting looking (in a good way ) bubbles and boils using Green Stuff?

Yes you could. You also could add rotten flesh and exposed bloated entrails and such. GS is good for organic stuff so give it a go. And if you search for it there are a ton of tutorials how to further nurgleify models out there.

Great info here. Thanks.

Also look at ProCreate putty (grey)

I use green Stuff and get it from a plumbing supply store ..it comes in two tubes (one yellow and one Blue) and while exatly the same producct sold by GW or Gforce 9 ..its far cheaper per ounce
Apoxie Sculpt ..(same characteristics as miliput) comes in two Jars and runs cheaper per once..

A note on using Premo, Sculpy or any other oven cured putty. GET THE GOOD STUFF!

Also if you are going to be doing a lot of character sculpting you are gonna want to roll out your clay, I use Sculpy Premo for toy design so we will go with that.

I get a nice 1/8th to 1/4 inch thick flat sheet and I then lay those between acidfree white paper for a few hours. This drys it out just a little, which makes it easier to crave into later on.

Also Armatures! Hope that helps!

Oh and for the record the few times I have used Sculpy to modify or convert GW models I also make sure to keep the the 75% rule so my models are still legal for play.

thegrav wrote:A note on using Premo, Sculpy or any other oven cured putty. GET THE GOOD STUFF!

Also if you are going to be doing a lot of character sculpting you are gonna want to roll out your clay, I use Sculpy Premo for toy design so we will go with that.

I get a nice 1/8th to 1/4 inch thick flat sheet and I then lay those between acidfree white paper for a few hours. This drys it out just a little, which makes it easier to crave into later on.

Also Armatures! Hope that helps!

Oh and for the record the few times I have used Sculpy to modify or convert GW models I also make sure to keep the the 75% rule so my models are still legal for play.

morfydd wrote:I use green Stuff and get it from a plumbing supply store ..it comes in two tubes (one yellow and one Blue) and while exatly the same producct sold by GW or Gforce 9 ..its far cheaper per ounce
Apoxie Sculpt ..(same characteristics as miliput) comes in two Jars and runs cheaper per once..

bubber wrote:Also look at ProCreate putty (grey)

HairySticks wrote:Epoxy putty will take paint no problems, but treat it as if its any other model, it needs to be properly cured first, so leave it alone for a day maybe two (depends on the particular epoxy)

And then prime, and paint as you would any other figure.
If you used lots of petroleoum jelly as lubricant during the sculpting process, (or anything else that will mess with paint adhesion) be sure to wash it before you begin; just as you would resin pieces to remove the mold release.

Edit;
Personally I like to mix milliput and greenstuff together.
Gets me the best of both worlds; milliput cures harder, faster, and is sandable,but is brittle. While greenstuff cures with a bit of flex to it. Approx a 50-50 mix of the two gives a hard curing, sandable,slightly flexible cured product.

btldoomhammer wrote:I'd suggest to start with green stuff. But i'd advise against buying it from GW (very expensive). Also if you need a decent amount of if i advise against the stripes and buy GS where both parts a reperated.
If you get the stripes it's best th cut the middle part away where both parts meet. It contains already cured putty that will get in the way on smaller details. But for larger areas it is still useable if you carfully avoid getting the hardened part to stick out of it.

And as milliput go it has a more sandy claylike feel to it where Kneadatite putties are more rubbery and flexible.


And just a small correction on the list above.
Super sculpey is a polymer clay and not an epoxy putty.

Epoxy putties are two part putty that cures when mixed.
Polymer clays are one part and need to be backed in an oven (not the best place for plastic miniatures to be )

kaapelikala wrote:Kneadatite Blue/Yellow also known as Green Stuff is good. Brown Stuff (Kneadatite Brown/Aluminum) cures harder so it is better for non-organic parts.

Then there is Milliput, Super Sculpey and other epoxy putties.

If you want to start from scratch, you can use polymer clays (Fimo for example). They need to be cured in the oven.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Kneadatites are also Epoxy putties.

Thank you all for your support sirs & madams! I wish the best of luck for all of you!