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Overall whats the consensus on edge highlighting vs zenithal highlighting vs layering on marines as currently I seem to be doing a combination of edge and layering on my marines but seem to be spending more time stripping than painting . I do have an airbrush to prime etc

They all work, I prefer Edge and Layering Personally. But if it looks good and you like it do what you want man!


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P.S. Once you've gotten used to doing it, there will be a lot less stripping. Just a practice thing until you figure out how to do it right.

thanks for the advice. I'd like to try zenithal highlights and could do with some advice as its for sallamanders so caliban green undercoat warpstone glow green main and moot highlights, however I think moot would be to stark

Mmm, I think it could work, or maybe just darken it up with a darker green. I'm horrible at Zenithal, so don't come to me for tips on that!

ok yeah I suppose a 1:1 with the warpstone would work

Not a fan of the Zenthial myself. I have been layer painting for years and the key to layer painting is the color choices. Typically colors direct from GW pots are too far apart. I typically premix all my colors to get a better transition in color. If your transition is too much then try some of the washes but give them an hour or two to dry to see the real colors. This can help with the blend.

I cant access my photo storage at work but follow this link on CMON to get a better idea how to blend/layer a marine
http://www.coolminiornot.com/222888

For highlights I tend to use a 50:50 Moot/Warpstoneglow and then move onto pure Moot. THe trick really isn't in what shade you're using, but more in how you match them. By building up a thicker line (assuming an edge highlight) of the 50:50 mix, and then a thin, minimal line of Moot you can pull of the crisp edge, but it blends the two highlights into one layered effect provided they are thinned. Have you tried it with Moot yet? I ask only because when you look at Moot Green in the pot it does look waay to light. However, once you get the initial layers and the 50:50 highlight down, the pure Moot Green looks far softer a transition than you're led to believe by it's colour in the pot. Experimentation is the key - and sometimes less (Moot Green) is more (Better looking). Keep your lines thin, and slowly build up the highlights and you should be fine.

PS. @cookiesk8r - Hope you don't think I'm stalking your posts, but I tend to answer any Salamanders related threads because they help me as much as I try to help others

Yeah I have warpig and its a little stark but i have been just doing moot edges. Tbh I prefer when i drybrushed the moot over the top edges as it looked more natural and hey Your no stalker

cookiesk8r wrote:
Overall whats the consensus on edge highlighting vs zenithal highlighting vs layering on marines as currently I seem to be doing a combination of edge and layering on my marines but seem to be spending more time stripping than painting . I do have an airbrush to prime etc

There is no reason not to use zenithal highlights and edge highlights, they aren't mutually exclusive. Since you have an airbrush, zenithal highlighting is easy (for the most part) and you can define hard edges with edge highlighting afterward. Here is a perfect example of how to do it.

Thanks This is helpful however would it be as easy as highlighting less ie not up to white as that wouldn't suit the green

I'm not saying to follow that tutorial exactly, just showing you that both methods can be used on a model to achieve excellent results.

And yes, with an airbrush you can do pinpoint highlights using white on green armor. If it is too bright, go over it with your brightest green to tone it down a bit.

I prefer the zenithal highlights with some edge highlights. I think it makes for a more realistic look. It's also tons faster. In pursuit of that realistic look, I've been afraid of ramping the contrast up but have never had it high enough. Finally I went out of my comfort zone and did what I initially thought would be too stark. It was great! So I say relax and do what feels a bit too stark. Then after it's dry, if it looks too stark from 3-4 feet away, use a wash or glaze like previously mentioned to blend.

Count me in the "both" camp. If you have a lot of nice shading and zenithal stuff then you don't need to do as much edge highlighting (opinion of course) but a little bit helps punch things out a bit.

Also, major protip : Use oils to do edge highlighting! Just like with oil washes you get the tremendous benefit of being able to trivially erase any mistakes you make. You can 100% erase (using mineral spirits) any edge and retry as many times as you like. This should be "how to edge highlight 101" but for some reason you never see people talking about it.

Ok Iv taken this on board and will try at some pint soon

Horses for courses, IT ALL WORKS but it's when to apply what where....layering for cloaks and robes, edges for angles and Zenithal for plates and large surfaces. That's my opinion but I spend my time drybrushing six shades of bone when I do terminators lol.

 Fishboy wrote:
Not a fan of the Zenthial myself. I have been layer painting for years and the key to layer painting is the color choices. Typically colors direct from GW pots are too far apart. I typically premix all my colors to get a better transition in color. If your transition is too much then try some of the washes but give them an hour or two to dry to see the real colors. This can help with the blend.

I cant access my photo storage at work but follow this link on CMON to get a better idea how to blend/layer a marine
http://www.coolminiornot.com/222888

Fish that is an awesome pic. and that orange is AWESOME. I know its not SM but i plan on using the same colour for eldar

what colours where you using was it undercoated grey or white?

cheers