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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Hi guys, this is a two part question. Firstly, I have been lead to believe that citadel super glue has a nice feature of working in everything and being easier to disassemble, via either pulling apart gently or using some solvent aka simple green, is there a cheaper super glue substitute, say generic super glue from a target or other department store? Secondly is a hot glue gun a viable choice for assembling terrain? Is it better than elmers or super glue when working with card and Styrofoam or foamcore, mixed media? Thanks guys, trying to save money and increase product versatility.
   
Made in gb
Avatar of the Bloody-Handed God






Inside your mind, corrupting the pathways

I use cheap as chips generic superglue from a highstreet discount store. I can get about 30-40 tubes for the price of a single GW pot of glue. Holds well. Not really sure why you would want to pull your models apart...

As for hot glue - depends on the type of terrain you are building. If you are building plastic terrain kits, hot glue is probably not the best idea as it is very thick and will take up too much room in joints. If you are sticking together the rough underskeleton of a scratch built bit of terrain, hot glue can be great - sets quickly and is quite strong (though it can be a brittle joint as you tend to use less of it over an area than PVA, for exampe). Hot glue may also melt foam if it is hot enough, so do a test before you start sticking together finished pieces.

   
Made in us
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Augusta GA

The main difference between citadel super glue and generic stuff from wal-mart is that you're paying a couple extra bucks for that official GW label.

While there's a ton of different types of super glue with minor differences, they all pretty much do the same thing with the same properties of sticking things to other things.

If you're interested in easily pulled apart minis, consider using activator along with superglue. It makes it stick faster, and also gives it a more brittle hold that's easier to separate later. Or you could just give the piece you're about to glue it to a quick lick.
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

Cyanoacrylate is Cyanoacrylate
That is to say is that superglue is superglue. Some are formulated to me more or less viscous than anohter. GW sell thick and thin versions. Some is even rubberised for a slightly less brittle bond.
Personally I like Loctite brand glue, not really because its any better, but becuase of the easy control appliocator they do... which makes the glue just as much of a rip off as the GW stuff, only it comes in a usefull bottle hehe.

If GW plastic glue is anything to go by, then I would advise against using it, as their plastic glue doesn't do what its supposed to (ie melt the surfaces together)

'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

I've recently started using Loctite CA glue, as well, mostly for the bottle design. Used Krazy Glue for quite a while, as it was the only brand readily available (i.e. within walking distance of my old college apartment).

As for the hot glue, it depends on the task, as SilverMK2 says. Low (or Dual Temp set to low) temp glue is the go-to adhesive for floral arrangers working with foam bases, as it bonds quickly and strongly, without melting the material. Since it doesn't need to dry, it can also be used to join broad faces (e.g. bonding stacked boards) without fear of the glue never setting properly, like PVA might. Doesn't shrink, either, so it won't pull away or bead up on smooth surfaces. It does, however, have its downsides: More bulk, (brief) warmup period for the gun, annoying strings that trail off of applied beads, risk of burning yourself or melting materials if careless, etc. For roughing out underlying forms, though, it's definitely useful.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in gb
Secretive Dark Angels Veteran



UK - Warwickshire

Can't really reccomend the loctite control applicator enough.
Have been happilly using 'Loctite Gel Control' for years and years, and am happy to pay the extra for the applicator after having so many other tubes and bottles seal themselves shut in the passed.
They do all 3 varieties of glue; fluid, gel and ruberised (called super flex) in the control applicator, its as easy as applying a small bit of pressure to the sides to squeeze a bit out of the nozzle, slowly.

'Ain't nothing crazy about me but my brain. Right brain? Riight! No not you right brain! Right left brain? Right!... Okay then lets do this!! 
   
Made in gb
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine






Northumberland

I find hot glue is best for the rougher work involving terrain or base making. When making terrain, provided the glue doesn't cool too fast, it gives a very strong bond and has a wide coverage. I use it most for making bases with cork board. In this situation as model's won't stick to cork board with conventional poly cement, the hot glue gives just as strong a bond, but isn't fussy over materials being bonded. However, I will echo Oadie in that Hot glue is very hard to control and keep neat. It requires constant attention to ensure you aren't getting strings or globules on your model and if you aren't careful it can be dangerous enough to give you a severe burn. Therefore it's best used for rough work.

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Numine Et Arcu
 
   
 
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