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Hi Dakka! I'm an Ork player and have a ton of looted vehicles. All of my Trukks, Battlewagons, etc are looted from some other army's vehicle. As such, I thought it would be cool to pay a little homage to the looted by having spots on the vehicle's hull where the "original" paint was showing through. For example, I have a looted Stormraven that has been converted into a Battlewagon and it would be cool to have a spot or two where my blue (Deathskulls!) didn't cover up the original red (my friend plays Blood Angels) and maybe you even see part of the chapter symbol.

How would you suggest painting this?

The easiest method would be to use a bit of sponge to stipple the ork color over the Blood Angels color. I think if done properly, this technique would be passable for the tabletop.

The best results are achieved with the Hairspray Technique. Scale modelers have been using this method for ages and a quick Google search will give you a wide variety of tutorials. If you have an airbrush, or if you are willing to pick up some of the Army Painter spray cans, check out the video below for an introduction . The results are amazing.

Hairspray, Marmite, Salt weathering are various ways to produce the effect of a top layer of paint chipping or weathering off in places to reveal the lower layer.

If done intensively, and combined with washes and sponging, it can produce the effect of blistering of the paint.

Awesome, thanks guys!

I kind of picture the way an ork is likely to paint something like this... I doubt they roll it into the paint booth and spray all the nooks and crannies. So, I would think you could almost leave the "original color" in the crevaces as though they just didn't bother trying to get the paint in there. Maybe that idea mixed with some of the hairspray and salt weathering and lots of weathering pigments... That would really scream "we stole it, slapped some paint on it, and have been driving the treads off of it ever since"... except Orkier.

You should also check out crackling techniques. You could use a crackle medium or a diy method. It adds some nice variation to the chipping effect with hairspray method/chipping medium.

Post of some pics of your results!

In that hairspray video he says that vallejo model air sprays didnt work very well, does anyone have any experience of this? As I have vallejo and am now well interested in trying this out :(

Edit: Another question, If I wanted a 3 stage weathered style do I need to seal in the first weathering/hairspray technique?
As in:

I spray rust colour and apply hairspray

Apply first colour, let dy and weather it away on the edges - So I now have say a BA rhino thats red with rusted edges

I then hairspray again, dry and base coat in Deathskulls blue

I now then weather away the blue to reveal the rust and then keep going to remove a little more blue into the BA red

Do I need to seal inbetween? As in when weathering the blue I will surely disturb the lowest hairspray layer?
oooo I wonder what effect you get if I dont even bother with the initial weathering and go straight with two paint layers. Might have to give that a go

Solar Shock wrote:
In that hairspray video he says that vallejo model air sprays didnt work very well, does anyone have any experience of this? As I have vallejo and am now well interested in trying this out :(

Yes, the Vallejo paint tends to gum up pretty bad with these techniques. Instead of a worn look, you get more of a rubbed off look.

Solar Shock wrote:
Edit: Another question, If I wanted a 3 stage weathered style do I need to seal in the first weathering/hairspray technique?
As in:

I spray rust colour and apply hairspray

Apply first colour, let dy and weather it away on the edges - So I now have say a BA rhino thats red with rusted edges

I then hairspray again, dry and base coat in Deathskulls blue

I now then weather away the blue to reveal the rust and then keep going to remove a little more blue into the BA red

Do I need to seal inbetween? As in when weathering the blue I will surely disturb the lowest hairspray layer?
oooo I wonder what effect you get if I dont even bother with the initial weathering and go straight with two paint layers. Might have to give that a go

You need to seal between each layer, other wise you will just end up removing earlier layers as well. I like to seal each layer with a 50/50 mix of Future and distilled water mixed in about a 30% mix of Vallejo or Tamyia Flat Varnish, then once all the weathering is done I do a final seal with Testors Dull coat.

A.

 Redfinger wrote:

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Thnaks for the info. Thats a complete b*tch :( only just got into airbrushing and bought vallejo air range, I think il have to give it ago, maybe if I use something more like a wire brush or toothpick instead of a brush. Maybe a brush followed up with a tooth pick to finish off. Really cant justify a whole new paint set for one technique :/ I'll just experiment. Thanks for the tip off

Can I ask why you seal with such a mixture? Your mixing a varnish with future (which googling seems to be a polish? Although googling future with any word combo doesnt seem productive ) and then finishing with a dull coat. I can understand the dull coat finish, but could you just use the dull coat as the sealer?

It is not what you use to take the paint off that is the problem, it is the nature of the paint itself. Tamyia paints in my experience have produced the most natural looking wear patterns.

I have been building models for a long time, 20 years or so, mostly military stuff. Future Floor Polish has been a great asset for modelers, and serves a lot of purposes. I guess I use the mixture mostly out of habit, cost and experience. I do not like to use Testor's as an intermediate sealer, it is very expensive and leaves a bit of a tooth behind. The Future mix I make is quite smooth and works real well for this type of weathering technique.