Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I'm wondering how this painter did the chipping effects to the edges and spot like chipping on the surfaces of this model. You can see the effect really well on the shield. I saw a painter once primer black > airbrush base > airbrush highlights then take a wet toothbrush and brush the paint off the edges of the model. Does this actually work consistently?

If the black primer layer is totally cured (fully hardened; usually takes 24-72 hours) and the layers on top are not (dry to the touch but not cured yet) then a stiff brush, like a tooth brush, could work to rub some of the outer paint off.

Most people paint the chips manually. Normally you put an outline of a colour lighter than the main colour and then fill it in almost completely with a darker colour (often black but sometimes dark brown). With the thin outline of lighter paint it looks like fairly realistic chips.

A third option would be to use hairspray or chipping medium. You apply it between the dark primer and lighter main colours and it prevents the paint from fully adhering. You can then chip it with a wet tooth brush which dissolves the layer in between causing the outer paint to chip or flake off a little and shows the primer layer through.

IMO the first and third are too uncontrollable. The third also has the issue of the areas not chipped where the outer paint is left is not adhered as well to the primer and may chip later on. Personally I'd go for the painted chips. Here is a tutorial video I found on YouTube that summarizes it pretty well:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v4yrqR4Jw8E

 LUTNIT wrote:
If the black primer layer is totally cured (fully hardened; usually takes 24-72 hours) and the layers on top are not (dry to the touch but not cured yet) then a stiff brush, like a tooth brush, could work to rub some of the outer paint off.

Most people paint the chips manually. Normally you put an outline of a colour lighter than the main colour and then fill it in almost completely with a darker colour (often black but sometimes dark brown). With the thin outline of lighter paint it looks like fairly realistic chips.

A third option would be to use hairspray or chipping medium. You apply it between the dark primer and lighter main colours and it prevents the paint from fully adhering. You can then chip it with a wet tooth brush which dissolves the layer in between a little and shows the primer layer through.

Hmm... is that third option easy to do? I'm usually a bit weary of trying new methods heh

So you black primer -> let it dry -> seal it with hairspray -> airbrush basecoat + highlights -> wet toothbrush the previous coats off? How is this different from the method I stated without the need for hairspray? Seems the same except for that step.

Scratching the paint off without a buffer layer in between could also take the primer layer off. With the hairspray buffer in there (several companies also sell "chipping medium", I know Vallejo does) the top layers come off far easier without much risk to the primer layer. The water dissolves the hairspray to allow this to happen.

Here's a good tutorial on weathering:

http://www.camospecs.com/Article.asp?FictionID=56

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0D-b-xomPoU

medows right? here ya go

kb305 wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0D-b-xomPoU

medows right? here ya go

Ya thats the one! It looks pretty good. But now that the hairspray method has been mentioned I'm thinking maybe thats the better way to do it. So it doesn't accidentally strip the black undercoating... but that sponge method looks pretty easy to do!

The sponge method is the way to go imo.

the wire brush trick is usually the easiest. Drawback you cant touch the model for 2-3 days after you prime it because if it isnt COMPLETELY cured, that brush will take it off as easy as the fresh paint.

Sponge chipping is probably the easiest and fastest. The more advanced techniques are only really worth it for showpieces as they take forever.