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Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Hello all,

I'm working on an airbrush scheme for my Lizardmen. For Saurus and Skinks, I'm going light green belly to black scales and then a red/orange stripe down the spine. Excuse the terrible quality iphone 3GS photos, but this is just to give you an idea of where I'm at with it at the moment:




However this means I'm airbrusing red over black, and then orange over red. To do this, would you typically spray white over the black before the red? I found to get the orange to "pop" I had to do white over the red, so black -> red -> white -> orange.

Would you normally go black -> white -> red -> white -> orange?

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/01/28 13:03:18


 
   
Made in gr
Furious Fire Dragon





Athens Greece

In order to make your life easier spray white over black. I find that VAC (vallejo air color) white straight from the bottle gets pretty descent coverage over any color. A couple of coats will get you a light grey over which both red and orange will look a lot brighter. If you want certain areas where orange will pop even more then after applying red hit only those areas with yellow just like highlighting and then go over it with orange. The reason I am suggesting this order is that red covers a lot better and is much more vivid over grey or white than black.
So the order will be something like this black--->white--->red--->(yellow highlight where you want orange to pop)--->Orange.
On the areas you want your red to blend with green spray some dark brown or ever better burnt umber color so you create a nice transition from red to green.
Hope I helped
BTW i really like your color scheme . A little effort and it will look ace .

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2014/01/28 14:55:01


Got milk?

All I can say about painting is that VMC tastes much better than VMA... especially black...

PM me if you are interested in Commission work.
 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Cool, thanks! I did consider yellow but thought if orange covered so poorly, yellow wouldn't cover either, lol.

I'm still getting the hang of the airbrush, these models have some splattering where the nozzle or needle was a bit dirty and I probably should have cleaned it instead of persisting. Also a couple of areas where I aimed badly with the airbrush and got colour where I didn't to, lol. I'm practicing on the Saurus before I get to the Skinks because the Skinks will take a lot more fine control of the brush, lol.

Started using VMA paints and they make airbrushing a lot easier. Since they are closer to the right consistency to begin with, it takes less guessing to get it right on and they do seem to clog less than citadels, at least so far (did get a bit of clogging with the white for some reason that caused the aforementioned splattering).

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/01/28 15:51:51


 
   
Made in gr
Furious Fire Dragon





Athens Greece

When you airbrush a color and you get minimum coverage two things maybe wrong. Either you have diluted the paint to the point where there is not enough pigment to cover the area (you are spraying colored water) or you are trying to apply a very light color on top of a very dark one (examples being red or yellow over black). On the second case you are under the impression that your color isn't covering at all until some very darky version of the color starts to appear on top of black.

To avoid clogging your airbrush dilute the paint separately and then add it inside your airbrush. If you are set to dilute inside the airbrush then first add any thinner (eg water) and then add the paint inside the airbrush cup.

Use a wet q-tip and carefully clean your airbrush needle when you see color gathering up. I find that a lot better than pinching the needle from time to time.

Airbrush control is all about practice but keeping your needle clean and your color diluted properly will avoid clogging and splattering. If you want to avoid overspray marks you can begin by applying the lighter colors and proceed applying the darker ones. Following this order whenever possible will create less light colored dots on top of dark colors. Also it is a lot easier to put a dark color on top of a light one than vice versa.

Any way practice practice and then practice some more and if you have any more questions we are more than happy to help you .

Got milk?

All I can say about painting is that VMC tastes much better than VMA... especially black...

PM me if you are interested in Commission work.
 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Thanks for the tips!

I made life hard for myself by going bright green belly, dark scales, but the bright orange spine, makes it hard to avoid having to do a bright colour over a darker one. I decided to do the spine last even though it's the brightest largely because doing the intermediate green that covers most the model, it's hard to avoid accidentally spraying other parts of the model.

So on those models I've actually gone... light green -> intermediate green -> touch up light green -> dark green (almost black) -> red -> white -> orange. With your suggestion the next ones I'll try white before the red and then a yellow.

It does seem the VMA orange isn't suited to covering anything, it looks vibrant when you spray it over white, but barely shows up when you do it on anything else, even using it straight from the pot. Seems almost like a candy/clear.

What do you do if you are trying to do detail work at low pressure and then the brush starts to clog after a while? Is there no solution but to empty the paint out, remove the needle and clean it out? I tried cleaning the needle while it was still in the brush and blasted high pressure through it, it got the paint flowing against but it was splattering.
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Ottawa, Canada

I've been experimenting with red/orange/yellow over black and I really need to give it a shot of white first or else it takes way too many coats to make vibrant.

That's what I did with this model:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/lutnit/10809642063/

That's straight black, white sprayed from a high angle, red to cover all the white and some of the black (doesn't really show up on the black) and then orange and yellow over the red without anymore white.
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





You link doesn't work.

I think I'll grab a VMA yellow and see how that goes (all I have at the moment is a GW base yellow, not very vibrant and I hate airbrushing base colours, lol).

I think I can get something decent with doing the white inbetween, I think it's important to clean out the airbrush properly before doing white over black though as the splattering really stands out, as Capamaru mentions. That was probably part of my problem, gunk in the nozzle making it hard to get a smooth coat of white before doing the orange.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/01/28 23:07:55


 
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Ottawa, Canada

*sigh*
I still have no idea why Dakka doesn't work with Flickr links. They've worked on over a dozen other forums for the past 7 years for me. It's just this one.
   
Made in gr
Furious Fire Dragon





Athens Greece

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Thanks for the tips!

I made life hard for myself by going bright green belly, dark scales, but the bright orange spine, makes it hard to avoid having to do a bright colour over a darker one. I decided to do the spine last even though it's the brightest largely because doing the intermediate green that covers most the model, it's hard to avoid accidentally spraying other parts of the model.

So on those models I've actually gone... light green -> intermediate green -> touch up light green -> dark green (almost black) -> red -> white -> orange. With your suggestion the next ones I'll try white before the red and then a yellow.

It does seem the VMA orange isn't suited to covering anything, it looks vibrant when you spray it over white, but barely shows up when you do it on anything else, even using it straight from the pot. Seems almost like a candy/clear.

What do you do if you are trying to do detail work at low pressure and then the brush starts to clog after a while? Is there no solution but to empty the paint out, remove the needle and clean it out? I tried cleaning the needle while it was still in the brush and blasted high pressure through it, it got the paint flowing against but it was splattering.


Lower pressure means higher dilution in order to avoid clogging. You are lowering the pressure in order to get closer to the model for some detail work and if the a/b clogs most people frustrate and raise the pressure. If the color is diluted you get spiders from high pressure, if not you get splattering.
So for low pressure detail work thin your paint a little more than usual. If the a/b clogs then raise pressure, spray some color on some paper and use a q-tip to clean the front of the needle. Then lower pressure and try again first on paper and then on model. If a/b is still clogged it means that you haven't thinned your paint enough in the first place so either you try to thin some more and mix by closing the front of the a/b and sending air and some paint out . If that fails then you have to empty it and clean it.

Always take apart the whole airbrush and clean it at least once per week. Are you using just water for thinning? You have to thin a little even VAC in order to get closer and do some detail work.

Got milk?

All I can say about painting is that VMC tastes much better than VMA... especially black...

PM me if you are interested in Commission work.
 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Yeah, I have some Vallejo airbrush thinner and also some Humbrol thinner. I usually use some mix of thinner and water depending how I feel at the time and which bottle is closest to me at the time, lol.
   
 
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