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Hi guys, I am currently putting together a bunch of micro art studios buildings and I was wondering what types of white spray primers I could use on it besides citadel because the hdf soaks up paint like crazy and I need a lot of it. So I hope you guys can help me find a cheaper alternative to use. Thanks.

Guarder22 wrote:
Hi guys, I am currently putting together a bunch of micro art studios buildings and I was wondering what types of white spray primers I could use on it besides citadel because the hdf soaks up paint like crazy and I need a lot of it. So I hope you guys can help me find a cheaper alternative to use. Thanks.

You don't necessarily need to prime it at all, but then you'll have the same issue with your paint getting soaked up. You could brush on a coat of latex house paint. That would get the job done. I'd thin it before doing that though.

I'd spray a coat of acrylic lacquer lightly over the edges first that should help seal them then undercoat

Here is a link to the latest thread on the Infinity forums asking basically the same question. http://infinitythegame.com/forum/index.php?/topic/22191-priming-mdf-for-airbrushing/

As for alternatives to citadel sprays any cheap primer (car primers etc) depending on what's available locally.

Anything, it really doesn't matter with MDF.

Cheap thinned acrylic

I found the MAS mdf just ate white primer. So I used grey primer and put white over the top. Worked perfectly.

Used standard automotive primers.

I've also used automotive primer on MDF/HDF.

One thing that works well is to seal the cut edges with something - I've used PVA, just brushed on the exposed edges that were laser cut. It helps seal the surface and the primer doesn't soak in as badly.

For HDF, MDF and LDF - I normally do a primer coat of Zinsser BIN. It is a shellac - so you don't run into certain issues relating to water based paints and MDF (swelling and what not) and once dry, it does a good job of protecting the material in use.

You can get it in rattle cans, but I spray mine with a HVLP. Most your DIY stores will carry it (and most hardware, paint and other stores). They can pretint the primer as well to save you having to do a base coat after priming.

Usually I will spray the edges once, let those dry and give them a quick hit with a 220 sanding block to knock off any raised fibers (issue with machined edges...not so much with laser cut edges). After that, spray the whole thing with an even coat. Front, back, top, bottom, all sides. That prevents warping from happening and keeps moisture out when using water based paints.

PVA works well enough too - but I can't spray it. When I used to use that - I just used straight, undiluted PVA and brushed it on with a throw away brush then wiped it off with my finger.

Latex paint (regular house paints) work too - though you have to watch them as the low VOC water based paints can cause the edges to get punky and soft.

I've built a LOT of MAS buildings, and I've found you need to use something to seal the mdf before you paint it, otherwise the wood will soak up the paint. I used a matte varnish spray, using two light coats before putting on white primer. Both the primer and matte varnish is Army Painter, but any varnish and primer paint would work.

I painted my first MAS buildings without using a varnish, and the paint kept soaking into the wood. It took four or five coats to get a solid, even base coat. With the varnish, it took two light coats, and the second was mainly just to get the areas that I'd missed with the first coat.

I'd suggest turning the building upside down and using grey primer on any part would be shaded, spraying down at roughly a 45 degree angle. Then turn the building ringside up, and spray white, also at a 45 degree or higher angle down, so that the grey still shows up under the underhangs. Instant shading.