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Just awaiting on the first casts - gonna look solid~

Looks like a good sculpt, and with the separate thighs, shins, etc. pretty poseable as well.

Add me to the PM list for pricing as well.

RogueMarket wrote:Just awaiting on the first casts - gonna look solid~

Frowbakk wrote:Looks like a good sculpt, and with the separate thighs, shins, etc. pretty poseable as well.

Add me to the PM list for pricing as well.

Yup, everything is poseable. PM sent.


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First 3 kits in friday/saturday!

I cant wait to see the knight all cast up.

Frowbakk wrote:Looks like a good sculpt, and with the separate thighs, shins, etc. pretty poseable as well.

Add me to the PM list for pricing as well.

PM sent.


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Note from the caster AKA TrooperPX. (package tomorrow will be for the weapons and waist. We wanted to get started ASAP on the modeling )

The first package is out and on it's way to Matt.



These first three will be assembled (over at the Conversion Corner) to show off the possible poses, and finished to offer detailing ideas. To date, this is the largest and most complex "garage kit" I have ever produced. It rocks the scales at over 600-grams!! 8)

Wh00t!!

PM Me the price also.

Commodore Perry

Mistress of minis wrote:Ok- at first I was worried when I saaw all the molds laid out- but seeing that last one with the mold box in the pressure pot I feel alot better.

Air bubbles are the bane of complex casting of this sort- so Im glad to see it shouldnt be an issue.

Also- if the thermo stresses on the mold are too much, try a resin with a longer cure time- they dont get as hot, and have the added benefit of giving more time to de-air the cast.

Howdy!

I preassure pot my silicon till it gells, then let it sit level overnight. It takes a full day to cure, then a second day to de-gas after I've pulled the masters out.

Air bubbles aren't too much of a problem as my techniques get the air bubbles to lift off the surface. Rather I get what I call casting "pimples". Those are created by air bubbles that are near the surface, but not on. These pick off with a fingernail, or a light hit with a file. I clean most of those up before I send anything out.

The torso of the Titan is the first time I've really noticed the mold get warm, and with propper release, 100% details every time. I use a Urethane Plastic, not the more common polyester resin. The plastic I use is inert after it cures. You should have NO reaction to it's touch or breathing. No chemical smell. As with anything, just wear a dust mask for particles when filing or sanding, but you should have no reaction to what little smell there might be. It has no odor after cure, so it won't smack you in the face when you open your package.

I'm here for technical questions if you have them... I also send a "wash-and-care" sheet with my products, that I'll post here when I can. Thanks again to everyone for your interest.

Commodore Perry wrote:PM Me the price also.

Commodore Perry

PM sent.

TrooperPX wrote:
Howdy!

I preassure pot my silicon till it gells, then let it sit level overnight. It takes a full day to cure, then a second day to de-gas after I've pulled the masters out.

Air bubbles aren't too much of a problem as my techniques get the air bubbles to lift off the surface. Rather I get what I call casting "pimples". Those are created by air bubbles that are near the surface, but not on. These pick off with a fingernail, or a light hit with a file. I clean most of those up before I send anything out.

The torso of the Titan is the first time I've really noticed the mold get warm, and with propper release, 100% details every time. I use a Urethane Plastic, not the more common polyester resin. The plastic I use is inert after it cures. You should have NO reaction to it's touch or breathing. No chemical smell. As with anything, just wear a dust mask for particles when filing or sanding, but you should have no reaction to what little smell there might be. It has no odor after cure, so it won't smack you in the face when you open your package.

I'm here for technical questions if you have them... I also send a "wash-and-care" sheet with my products, that I'll post here when I can. Thanks again to everyone for your interest.

Glad to see you popping in and sayin howdy! You really do seem to have it down to a true art form.

Be sure to post the wash and care sheet here as well as maybe print it out and send with each kit?

Final note, anysales come to me, trooper then mails out. Saves on double shipping costs.

That looks well done. Congrats, I can't wait to see painted up!

aka_mythos wrote:That looks well done. Congrats, I can't wait to see painted up!

Thanks for the kind words. Means alot coming form one such as yourself


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Im taking ideas for the color scheme on the first display one.

I need ideas.

Please help.

redstarone wrote:
Im taking ideas for the color scheme on the first display one.

I need ideas.

Please help.

Primer the entire model with a metallic spray, and then wash it completely with Vallejo smoke. This will give it a good rutsy base to add detailing and the pilot's heraldry over.

How about a quartered livery of green and white?

As i said before Red really looking forward to seeing one of these finished and painted

redstarone wrote:
Be sure to post the wash and care sheet here as well as maybe print it out and send with each kit?

Yep. Once I get the wording all straight, I'll post it up here because it will give a clear idea of what to expect, tips with prep/washing, recomended adhesive, general assembly, etc. The same sheet will be included with every kit. I'm also going to throw in some brass rod in case people want to pin parts or make magnetic combinations.

Almost time to play!

Please PM price. I don't even need to see the finished display copies to know that I'll purchase 1-2 depending on price.

Frowbakk wrote:

redstarone wrote:
Im taking ideas for the color scheme on the first display one.

I need ideas.

Please help.

Primer the entire model with a metallic spray, and then wash it completely with Vallejo smoke. This will give it a good rutsy base to add detailing and the pilot's heraldry over.

How about a quartered livery of green and white?

That might do it! Thanks!

Russ Den Army Painting wrote:As i said before Red really looking forward to seeing one of these finished and painted

;p

TrooperPX wrote:

redstarone wrote:
Be sure to post the wash and care sheet here as well as maybe print it out and send with each kit?

Yep. Once I get the wording all straight, I'll post it up here because it will give a clear idea of what to expect, tips with prep/washing, recomended adhesive, general assembly, etc. The same sheet will be included with every kit. I'm also going to throw in some brass rod in case people want to pin parts or make magnetic combinations.

Almost time to play!

Excellent

Regnirok wrote:Please PM price. I don't even need to see the finished display copies to know that I'll purchase 1-2 depending on price.

PM sent.

I'd love a price PM as well please.

I would also like to know the price thank you .

Really loving the look & can't wait to see how they come out painted. Can I have a price PM please

Yea... it's that cool. ...and this is one of the "crappy" test pulls.

Very Nice. A definite buy for me. Even though I wish the head was more like the Epic model, it's not something that puts me off.

PMs sent all around. If you didnt get one, PM me but I do think I covered everyone.

And hey Trooper, heads up, ill be calling you in a bit.


Automatically Appended Next Post:


Posed by Trooper for a test fit.

Painted pics up in the next day or 2 on the ones im working on.

Wow red once i get a hold of something to get on of these expect a PM

Hey All... I wanted to make sure everyone had the same information, and get as much out up front as possible.

Here is the current info sheet that will accompany the kit:

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Hello.

As with any “garage” project, there will be the occasional air bubble or casting pimple. These are unavoidable. I hand inspect every piece for quality, and do not ship any irregularities that I deem too difficult for the average modeler to deal with. Air bubble “foam” will be found where micro-bubbles did not coalesce to form a bubble large enough to travel out of the mold. Due to the massive nature of these parts, it was expected. These areas have been contained to the bottom-facing surfaces (e.g. sole of foot, armpit, chin, etc.). These will not be visible after priming and painting, but you can wipe a thin layer of glue over the surface to be sure. Matt put in an ambitious amount of detail on the piece. You will find the occasional micro air bubble at one point in the bottom facing edge of the “Heresy” Pattern shoulder and shin bumps, as well as one point on the hex-rivets. Just put a little CA on a pin, and apply. Casting “pimples” are points where an air bubble lifted off the surface (during the molding process) but is still close to the surface, created when cast under pressure. These are easily cleaned up with a quick scrape with a No.10 Xacto (always use caution when working with a knife), or a gentile hit with a file.

Notes:
- With any cast, please wash thoroughly in warm (not hot) soapy water to remove any molding chemicals. These may hinder assembly and/or paint adhesion.
- This is a Urethane Plastic, and by nature, will repel some paints and adhesives. The recommended adhesive is CA (cyanoacrylate) in conjunction with an accelerant (zip-kicker). This will create a near permanent bond.
- Use coarse sandpaper to scuff up the ball and socket of each joint for better CA penetration.
- Prime your work. I personally like the house-brand version of Rust-Oleum: American Accents or Painter’s Touch primer.

Please feel free to contact me directly with any technical questions, or Matt to place another order! Thank you for your interest in this project. Enjoy!



Yours,
Citizen Dave
TrooperPX
TrooperPX@aol.com
www.trooperpx.com
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Information and statistics for the kit:

- Tin-based Silicon, pressure casting
- 16 parts
- 30oz(1.88lbs) of Urethane Plastic / 850g(0.85kg) used in each kit
- Pulled on request
- Average one to two weeks from the time I receive your order from Matt to the time I put your package in the mail
- Domestic shipping will be $5… for one Titan, within the US (48 contiguous states), Flat Rate Priority Mail with Insurance and Delivery Confirmation; for two Titans, $10; for three Titans, $15.
- International shipping TBD by destination. (example estimates to the UK: First Class International Package – Registered, $32; for two Titans, $43; three Titans exceeds First Class Mail and will have to go Express Mail for $55.)
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Here are some more pics of the Knight Paladin. This is one of the test pulls I threw together. About one hour was spent cleaning up the casting "pimples", and another hour using a pin to CA fill some of the air bubbles. I left a few of the pits and gack as-is, to become battle damage, wear and tear, etc. ...I really hate to see showroom-new looking mecha that's supposed to be 3,000 years old. Sanded the joints, and in just two hours, I was putting her together. This is the raw material, un-primed, with a few lads from the 603rd C.O.D, 2nd P.D.F.:














And here are some pics of it with a coat of primer:












I was going for as dynamic a pose as I could. With the hip turned, the right foot planted and CCW on-guard, perhaps to receive another charging Knight. The head slightly tilted, trained on the opponent. The left toe appears to be lifting up, suggesting movement in the leg, lifting to take a step forward... (Sorry, I just think of these things when I build something. I love narrative… the subtleties have to tell a story.)

pm sent

Mmmmmm.... I am glad to see everything turned out great for the 2 of you. You two make an awesome team. Congratulations guys.

awesome kit!

looking forward to see
what people do with it.

Any chance for a different head? The kit looks awsome but that head just doesnt do it for me, Too Papa Nurgle for my tastes.

eh, it had so much potential....

fire4effekt wrote:eh, it had so much potential....

That's kinda what I'm thinking. The head for one is god awful, and the style around the whole thing is inconsistent. The blocky/boxy riveted torso doesn't seem to mesh well with the rounded studded shoulder pads and rounded legs.

The excellent detail all around the arms is great but the chainsaw blades on the CCW are just triangular blocks. It looks half finished on the chainsaw. The poseability is nice though, but it's not really the way I imagined it was going to turn out.

Not my cup of tea.

I love the new pose'd update pictures - definetly gunna get me one for myself.