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Made in us
Krazy Grot Kutta Driva





First off you have a great collection. I would definitely play a game against you. I have a fair bit of old stuff in my ork army. Instead of a complete 3rd edition of 40k army mine is more like orks through time. Base size doesn't matter to me and I don't think vehicles need bases either. Have you seen anybody put a banblade on a base? When you get your army updated you will have the benefit of distracting your opponent with all your old school goodness. Enjoy!

 
   
Made in us
Stinky Spore





Golden rule to any game is to have fun, Orks are fun and earlier editions are funny. Yes I would be glad to play and look at em as I have not seen a few of em.

 
   
Made in pl
Longtime Dakkanaut





SpaceOrk wrote:
I probably won’t be rebasing anything, but I’m not a gamer, so I wouldn’t know how to take real advantage of the smaller footprint anyways.

You know the whole 'rebase' thing is just a red herring that was started here by several WAAAC trolls who claimed it's ToO mUcH eFfOrT when they were clearly buying brand new models and putting them on tiny bases to munchkin harder? No one requires anyone to rebase anything, at best people who want to be 100% current edition compliant buy adapter rings (these cost pennies and slot around base to make it 'official' size) but even that is just politeness and in any case, no one would have a problem with what is clearly vintage army, certainly not yet another WAAAC wombo-combo special.

Like other people noted, I'd use the old models as closest modern equivalent, not as what they are 'technically' supposed to be (like not using old grot sized Ghaz as current massive model, warboss would be fine though) and the army would be completely fine.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/08/30 04:34:43


 
   
Made in us
Inspiring SDF-1 Bridge Officer





Mississippi

Not a problem to play against, and I’d suspect it would be fun.

Would give me a chance to break out my RT-01 beakies, terminators on 25mm bases and my mk I Land Raider without it looking out of place.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/08/30 03:39:23


It never ends well 
   
Made in de
Ork Admiral Kroozin Da Kosmos on Da Hulk






 Irbis wrote:
SpaceOrk wrote:
I probably won’t be rebasing anything, but I’m not a gamer, so I wouldn’t know how to take real advantage of the smaller footprint anyways.

You know the whole 'rebase' thing is just a red herring that was started here by several WAAAC trolls who claimed it's ToO mUcH eFfOrT when they were clearly buying brand new models and putting them on tiny bases to munchkin harder? No one requires anyone to rebase anything, at best people who want to be 100% current edition compliant buy adapter rings (these cost pennies and slot around base to make it 'official' size) but even that is just politeness and in any case, no one would have a problem with what is clearly vintage army, certainly not yet another WAAAC wombo-combo special.

Like other people noted, I'd use the old models as closest modern equivalent, not as what they are 'technically' supposed to be (like not using old grot sized Ghaz as current massive model, warboss would be fine though) and the army would be completely fine.


There is no reason to get this impolite, and you're also wrong. Multiple tournament circuits actually do require you to rebase your model to the newest size, and adapter rings cause you to lose 10 VP now.

7 Ork facts people always get wrong:
Ragnar did not win against Thrakka, but suffered two crushing defeats within a few days of each other.
A lasgun is powerful enough to sever an ork's appendage or head in a single, well aimed shot.
Orks meks have a better understanding of electrics and mechanics than most Tech Priests.
Orks do not think that purple makes them harder to see. They do think that camouflage does however, without knowing why.
Gharkull Blackfang did not even come close to killing the emperor.
Orks can be corrupted by chaos, but few of them have any interest in what chaos offers.
Orks do not have the power of believe. 
   
Made in gb
Sadistic Inquisitorial Excruciator




I would not hesitate to play against an army that didn't make my pretorians or Mk1 Rhino's look out of place.

And this basing nonsense is utter garbage, and another fine example of GW using peer pressure to encourage people to rebuy models.

Disclaimer - I am a Games Workshop Shareholder. 
   
Made in gb
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest





Stevenage, UK

 Jidmah wrote:
...and adapter rings cause you to lose 10 VP now.


This in particular irks me. Why?! They're a simple, neat solution to save players with older collections a lot of time and potentially money. Why on earth would anyone want to punish them for taking a sensible approach?

"Hard pressed on my right. My centre is yielding. Impossible to manoeuvre. Situation excellent. I am attacking." - General Ferdinand Foch  
   
Made in si
Foxy Wildborne







Doesn't the 1/2" rule seriously reduce the difference between 25mm and 32mm bases now anyway, as neither can fight in 3 ranks?

Posters on ignore list: 36

40k Potica Edition - 40k patch with reactions, suppression and all that good stuff. Feedback thread here.

Gangs of Nu Ork - Necromunda / Gorkamorka expansion supporting all faction. Feedback thread here
   
Made in de
Ork Admiral Kroozin Da Kosmos on Da Hulk






 Super Ready wrote:
 Jidmah wrote:
...and adapter rings cause you to lose 10 VP now.


This in particular irks me. Why?! They're a simple, neat solution to save players with older collections a lot of time and potentially money. Why on earth would anyone want to punish them for taking a sensible approach?


If you put an adapter ring on a base, your model stops being battle-ready because part of it are unpainted unless you also paint and base those rings. But at that point, you might as well just a new bases instead of trying to match base decorations you did over a decade ago.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 lord_blackfang wrote:
Doesn't the 1/2" rule seriously reduce the difference between 25mm and 32mm bases now anyway, as neither can fight in 3 ranks?


It does.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/08/30 16:24:08


7 Ork facts people always get wrong:
Ragnar did not win against Thrakka, but suffered two crushing defeats within a few days of each other.
A lasgun is powerful enough to sever an ork's appendage or head in a single, well aimed shot.
Orks meks have a better understanding of electrics and mechanics than most Tech Priests.
Orks do not think that purple makes them harder to see. They do think that camouflage does however, without knowing why.
Gharkull Blackfang did not even come close to killing the emperor.
Orks can be corrupted by chaos, but few of them have any interest in what chaos offers.
Orks do not have the power of believe. 
   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran





 Jidmah wrote:
 Super Ready wrote:
 Jidmah wrote:
...and adapter rings cause you to lose 10 VP now.


This in particular irks me. Why?! They're a simple, neat solution to save players with older collections a lot of time and potentially money. Why on earth would anyone want to punish them for taking a sensible approach?


If you put an adapter ring on a base, your model stops being battle-ready because part of it are unpainted unless you also paint and base those rings. But at that point, you might as well just a new bases instead of trying to match base decorations you did over a decade ago.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 lord_blackfang wrote:
Doesn't the 1/2" rule seriously reduce the difference between 25mm and 32mm bases now anyway, as neither can fight in 3 ranks?


It does.




You realise it takes maybe an hour to paint base rings for even a horde army right?
Old models aren’t robust.
Removing them from bases requires cutting (and damaging) the models.
You then have to glue them, repaint any parts touched by the fumes from the glue and paint a base yet again.

Why would anyone purposefully devalue their own models?
You’d need to find the correct size slotta bases or chop the tabs.



As a side note, matching basing material is easier than trying to blend in any new paint after swapping a base.



This also doesn’t take into account any decorative basing.
Anything even remotely elaborate and I don’t see anyone cutting it from a base.
   
Made in gb
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest





Stevenage, UK

 Jidmah wrote:
If you put an adapter ring on a base, your model stops being battle-ready because part of it are unpainted unless you also paint and base those rings.

Ahh, so if the rings are painted properly you get the 10VP again? Fair enough.

But at that point, you might as well just a new bases instead of trying to match base decorations you did over a decade ago.

Strongly disagree. For a lot of old models - especially plastic ones glued to the base with plastic adhesive, rather than superglue - taking them off the base in the first place is a very fiddly and risky process.

"Hard pressed on my right. My centre is yielding. Impossible to manoeuvre. Situation excellent. I am attacking." - General Ferdinand Foch  
   
Made in au
Dakka Veteran




 Super Ready wrote:
 Jidmah wrote:
But at that point, you might as well just a new bases instead of trying to match base decorations you did over a decade ago.

Strongly disagree. For a lot of old models - especially plastic ones glued to the base with plastic adhesive, rather than superglue - taking them off the base in the first place is a very fiddly and risky process.
This. Plus there is the consideration about metal models. They do much better with their tabs kept on, but getting newer base sizes with slots is painful, and removing tabs means you have to drill into the model to pin it to the base.
   
Made in au
[MOD]
Making Stuff






Under the couch

Jackal90 wrote:

You realise it takes maybe an hour to paint base rings for even a horde army right?
Old models aren’t robust.
Removing them from bases requires cutting (and damaging) the models.
You then have to glue them, repaint any parts touched by the fumes from the glue and paint a base yet again.

This reads like one of those commercials where people are comically incapable of cutting an onion until they buy the wonderful new Onionmaster 3000!

For plastic models, removing them from the base is usually as simple as slipping a knife under their feet. Or, if you're using superglue to stick them to bases (which would be the only reason you would have 'fume' touchup to fix) even easier, since they'll just pop off with some sideways torque.

The only time rebasing is actually problematic, difficulty-wise, is when the models have tabs.

Still easier to just leave them on the bases they've been on for the last 20 years, though.


Why would anyone purposefully devalue their own models?

Sorry, you might need to explain this one. What is devaluing the model?


This also doesn’t take into account any decorative basing.
Anything even remotely elaborate and I don’t see anyone cutting it from a base.

Anything remotely elaborate, and you're going to have even bigger troubles trying to blend in a base extender.

Re-basing is a mug's game. Do it if you particularly like the look of larger bases, or if you're planning on entering events that require it, but otherwise just leave it alone.

 
   
Made in us
Terrifying Doombull




 insaniak wrote:
Jackal90 wrote:

You realise it takes maybe an hour to paint base rings for even a horde army right?
Old models aren’t robust.
Removing them from bases requires cutting (and damaging) the models.
You then have to glue them, repaint any parts touched by the fumes from the glue and paint a base yet again.

This reads like one of those commercials where people are comically incapable of cutting an onion until they buy the wonderful new Onionmaster 3000!

For plastic models, removing them from the base is usually as simple as slipping a knife under their feet. Or, if you're using superglue to stick them to bases (which would be the only reason you would have 'fume' touchup to fix) even easier, since they'll just pop off with some sideways torque.


Color me comically inept (or you buy really terrible glue), but... no. Getting a knife in there isn't simple, and 'applying torque' means leaving appendages behind.
I've rebased more models than I care to think about, and its a huge pain in the... fingers, or the model ends up damaged.

I've given up on trying to remove models from bases.

Upsizing bases is relatively easy, but still a fairly long and tedious process. Trace new base sizes on cardboard, cut out, glue old base on, apply some sort of putty to build up some surface (I've been using tile grout lately), apply basing materials, and repaint entire base.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/08/31 03:44:27


Efficiency is the highest virtue. 
   
Made in de
Ork Admiral Kroozin Da Kosmos on Da Hulk






I never had issues with removing boyz (or any other orks) from their bases, no matter what glue I used. For gretchin or other models who don't wear large, heavy boots I can see this being a problem, but boyz? You guys are aware that you aren't supposed to use a whole bottle of glue per model, right?
Models with tabs like metal characters or AOBR boyz are not hard to remove either, you can just cut the base along the tab and then break it in half. These aren't flimsy eldar, these are ork models.

"You realise it takes maybe an hour to paint base rings for even a horde army right?" is just not true unless you have exceptional painting skills, and even then I doubt that you can paint and texture 30 base rings in an hour.

7 Ork facts people always get wrong:
Ragnar did not win against Thrakka, but suffered two crushing defeats within a few days of each other.
A lasgun is powerful enough to sever an ork's appendage or head in a single, well aimed shot.
Orks meks have a better understanding of electrics and mechanics than most Tech Priests.
Orks do not think that purple makes them harder to see. They do think that camouflage does however, without knowing why.
Gharkull Blackfang did not even come close to killing the emperor.
Orks can be corrupted by chaos, but few of them have any interest in what chaos offers.
Orks do not have the power of believe. 
   
Made in de
Longtime Dakkanaut





@OP:

You would need to paint more Orks for a game but other than that everything is fine.


Rebasing:
I only rebased my 2nd Terminators onto 40mm bases. Easiest thing in the world:

1. Glue Terminator with old base on 40mm base.
2. Glue sand on excess space of 40mm base.
3. Paint sand.
4. Done!


No knife needed and no harm done to the model at all. Also time expenditure was marginal at best.

Would I rebase all my other Marines on 25mm to 32mm? HELL NO!
   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran





 insaniak wrote:
Jackal90 wrote:

You realise it takes maybe an hour to paint base rings for even a horde army right?
Old models aren’t robust.
Removing them from bases requires cutting (and damaging) the models.
You then have to glue them, repaint any parts touched by the fumes from the glue and paint a base yet again.

This reads like one of those commercials where people are comically incapable of cutting an onion until they buy the wonderful new Onionmaster 3000!

For plastic models, removing them from the base is usually as simple as slipping a knife under their feet. Or, if you're using superglue to stick them to bases (which would be the only reason you would have 'fume' touchup to fix) even easier, since they'll just pop off with some sideways torque.

The only time rebasing is actually problematic, difficulty-wise, is when the models have tabs.

Still easier to just leave them on the bases they've been on for the last 20 years, though.


Why would anyone purposefully devalue their own models?

Sorry, you might need to explain this one. What is devaluing the model?


This also doesn’t take into account any decorative basing.
Anything even remotely elaborate and I don’t see anyone cutting it from a base.

Anything remotely elaborate, and you're going to have even bigger troubles trying to blend in a base extender.

Re-basing is a mug's game. Do it if you particularly like the look of larger bases, or if you're planning on entering events that require it, but otherwise just leave it alone.




Your stance is confusing as hell considering I’m all for not rebasing models.
For plastic models, it’s not always as quick and easy and just using a blade.
In that regard it’s generally plastic models without tabs, which risk damage.
There’s also the fact that people with extremely old armies tend to be fond of them and wouldn’t want to risk taking a blade anywhere near them.
Has nothing to do with the ability to cut them.
Also, have fun with old cavalry models on the twin slots.
Sure you can just jam a knife in there and it will be ok.


Trying to find certain size slotta style bases isn’t always a thing, especially on larger bases.
If you can’t find them, the only option if you want to rebase them is to cut the tab, which devalues a model quite a bit.


For more elaborate bases, nothing says it has to be identical if you play it smart.
If you have a hero on a fancy woodland base with bits of log and shrub, just add plants, logs etc to the base ring.
I’m not talking about blending it to perfection.
Although, a lot of people tend to have supplies of basing materials if they spend time on bases.


Completely agree with your last statement.
I’d always just keep them on the bases they are on.
   
Made in gb
Chalice-Wielding Sanguinary High Priest





Stevenage, UK

Whatever everyone's individual stance on this - it's clear that there's enough disparity that trying to enforce army-wide base consistency as part of the rules would be... controversial.

"Hard pressed on my right. My centre is yielding. Impossible to manoeuvre. Situation excellent. I am attacking." - General Ferdinand Foch  
   
Made in de
Ork Admiral Kroozin Da Kosmos on Da Hulk






Jackal90 wrote:
Trying to find certain size slotta style bases isn’t always a thing, especially on larger bases.
If you can’t find them, the only option if you want to rebase them is to cut the tab, which devalues a model quite a bit.

It's not the only option, you can also just cut a slot into a base yourself and then fixate the model with green stuff if necessary.

Also note that you are talking about models in general, while I was talking about orks in specific. For ork infantry, you should never have the problem of not being able remove them from their base unless you build a scenic base.

7 Ork facts people always get wrong:
Ragnar did not win against Thrakka, but suffered two crushing defeats within a few days of each other.
A lasgun is powerful enough to sever an ork's appendage or head in a single, well aimed shot.
Orks meks have a better understanding of electrics and mechanics than most Tech Priests.
Orks do not think that purple makes them harder to see. They do think that camouflage does however, without knowing why.
Gharkull Blackfang did not even come close to killing the emperor.
Orks can be corrupted by chaos, but few of them have any interest in what chaos offers.
Orks do not have the power of believe. 
   
Made in it
Waaagh! Ork Warboss




Italy

Getting adapter rings for bases is usually cheaper than buying and painting new bases, and doesn't require any work time. It's a legit option for someone that wants to rebase models with 25mm bases into 32mm ones.

I don't mind playing with or against 25mm based models though, and no one has complained to far. Same for bikes, old smaller bases should be accepted by the majority of players.

The only units I've rebased, or actually just based as they were baseless before the current models, are the ork buggies.

 
   
Made in us
Using Object Source Lighting





Portland

Voss wrote:
 insaniak wrote:
Jackal90 wrote:

You realise it takes maybe an hour to paint base rings for even a horde army right?
Old models aren’t robust.
Removing them from bases requires cutting (and damaging) the models.
You then have to glue them, repaint any parts touched by the fumes from the glue and paint a base yet again.

This reads like one of those commercials where people are comically incapable of cutting an onion until they buy the wonderful new Onionmaster 3000!

For plastic models, removing them from the base is usually as simple as slipping a knife under their feet. Or, if you're using superglue to stick them to bases (which would be the only reason you would have 'fume' touchup to fix) even easier, since they'll just pop off with some sideways torque.


Color me comically inept (or you buy really terrible glue), but... no. Getting a knife in there isn't simple, and 'applying torque' means leaving appendages behind.
I've rebased more models than I care to think about, and its a huge pain in the... fingers, or the model ends up damaged.

I've given up on trying to remove models from bases.

Upsizing bases is relatively easy, but still a fairly long and tedious process. Trace new base sizes on cardboard, cut out, glue old base on, apply some sort of putty to build up some surface (I've been using tile grout lately), apply basing materials, and repaint entire base.


Seriously. As someone with a pretty small 40k collection after I hadn't played the game for a while, and as someone whose income for a while depended on commission work (so not talking about horde army or novice skills), I found rebasing really costly and time consuming. I think they have a better look on the board now, but prying a bunch of models off of their old bases (or trying to salvage nicer ones) and rebasing them was a real chore: it took a lot of evenings that would have been much more satisfying painting new stuff, to get my collection updated.

(To be clear, back above when I suggested increasing base size, this is mostly stuff like swapping Ghaz onto at least a terminator base and sticking trukks on those large ovals, not dealing with all infantry etc.)


My painted armies (40k, WM/H, Malifaux, Infinity...) 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
The Main Man






Beast Coast

I would have no issue whatsoever playing against your army. I wouldn't even be worried about the trukks. Those were the only models available back in the day anyway and it didn't seem to cause a huge problem.

   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine




 DarknessEternal wrote:
I don't even comprehend why anyone would refuse.

These are official models.


Painting. I am a stickler for it. For me its half the hobby and I would not play half a game.
   
 
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