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Made in us
Never Forget Isstvan!





Chicago

So I was wondering with smaller models like DKoK models using super glue and a small wad of green stuff to help keep the model together. I figure with it setting as hard as it does that it would be a good extra bit to hold the models together since super glue can crack easy.

Ustrello paints- 30k, 40k multiple armies
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Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

The "joint sandwich" with that method goes: model-CA-GS-CA-model. On either side of the cured putty, you're still largely relying on a superglue bond, for better or for worse. What the GS does is to fill any voids, ensuring good contact across both surfaces. It does improve most bonds, but not for the reason you imagine (GS isn't even particularly hard - it cures like a firm rubber, with a bit of flex).

If you want to avoid superglue for its potential brittleness, use something like Gorilla CA or epoxy, which tend to have a small amount of give that helps absorb knocks instead of shattering. Generally, though, superglue is sufficient on well-mated joins and superglue+GS turns passable joins into good ones.

The Dreadnote wrote:But the Emperor already has a shrine, in the form of your local Games Workshop. You honour him by sacrificing your money to the plastic effigies of his warriors. In time, your devotion will be rewarded with the gift of having even more effigies to worship.
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






For simplicities sake - you can also use an adhesive epoxy putty (while GS has some adhesive properties, it doesn't have the grab of something like JB).

When assembling ill fitting metal or resin, I will often use a bit of JB Weld as opposed to CA or regular Epoxy. The putty adhesive bonds extremely well, and unlike a more fluid epoxy it will stay where you put it. Unlike CA, the ability to hold isn't negatively impacted by gaps either.

The only real downside to it - is like other Epoxies - you do have to mix it, and mixing tiny amounts is a bit annoying. However, I keep an AB set in my top drawer and use it fairly often. Try to keep your joint as clean as possible (don't put so much on that it mushes out) and just before it is fully cured, you can normally shape it a bit (though they cure much faster than GS...so you don't have a lot of time to mess with it).
   
Made in us
Hardened Veteran Guardsman





NYC

I recently used the joint sandwich and pinning methods to assemble a forgeworld Leman Russ Exterminator turret. It was my first time pinning and using green stuff this way. While everything seems to be holding together very well (superglue was used on both sides of the green stuff/part), the Exterminator autocannon barrels do seem a bit rubbery at the "base" of the barrels and not very firm/solid in terms of the way it would feel if you had only super glued it. However, it does not feel weak or brittle. I used the green stuff and pinning in an attempt to negate the brittleness of superglue as well.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/07/01 14:48:06


 
   
 
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