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I just put this image up on another thread (the one about the 160 set) -- the floor plates are done with typhus corrosion and ryza rust, and incredibly easy to do:



On the other thread, I wrote out the exact process (though there's no magic to it at all).

Here, I just pasted the text form my other post. I'm gold you guys like it! it's very easy to do, and there are a lot of pieces in that terrain set that fit together with that. It was from
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/30/624160.page#7378007

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The floor plates are very quickly done: Black primer, then Leadbelcher with a 3/4" flat brush, then Nuln oil just to darken it a bit. Then the technical paint magic:

Using a crappy old round brush (about size 2) I put on Typhus Corrosion, thick in the crevices, and thin elsewhere. It goes on almost like a wash, but it has grit and gunk, and doesn't quite flow as much. This leaves the brownish, greasy-looking marks you see in all the crevices, and the oily ooze that is in some of the plates (like on the last two to the right). It's quite a bit of volume that the paint adds when you put it on thick..

Then, I liberally drybrush Ryza Rust, which leaves the rusty orange color. When you look at the compound, it just looks like Citadel dry, but you can see that the paint leaves a definite texture. On the left edge of the leftmost zoomed-in plate, the previously straight edge of the floor plate now looks weathered in a rusty, "kinda broken" way.

aWhen I'm done, I very gently drybrush a tiny bit of brass, so that the occasional spot looks shiny. The great thing is that this is very easy to do -- something that anyone, with any skill level can make look great with almost no effort and little time (though you do need to let the typhus corrosion fully dry, or it makes a mess).

Peregrine wrote:So, what is the appeal of this paint compared to rust-colored weathering powders? Is it the ease of use offered by a paint you can use right out of the pot vs. something you have to mix up yourself? Or is it just that you can get Ryza rust from the shelf of your local GW's Official™ Citadel™ Paint™ Rack™, but have to look elsewhere for the alternatives? From what I've seen so far it looks like it's just a product that doesn't look as nice and is limited to drybrushing raised surfaces.

Theduke07 wrote:It's idiot proof? that seems to be the target of the new paint line and products. lot of people don't look outside of the GW bubble.

Wow, so much GW hate. Does it help that I've actually spent at least twice as much on Vallejo products as GW overall? I own all the Secret Weapon weathering pigments too, and lord knows how many fine arts pigments.

So, here's the thing. Yes, you can get a very similar effect in a number of different ways -- orange paint, no matter the shade, is not one of them, as Ryza Rust is grittier and leaves texture (not brush strokes, actual texture). With some mediums, maybe, but that would be a lot of work. In contrast, Ryza Rust is cheap and easy to use. It's $4 or so, and you don't need very much to do TONS of surface (I've only ever run out of 1, and I've done tons of terrain). If you prep the surface with typhus corrosion (as the product suggests), the finished product looks like my photo, is highly reproducible, and is a 2 step application.

If you use weathering pigments, which work great for things like tanks where it's supposed to get heavier towards the bottom, it is harder to get the appearance of consistency when your entire surface is horizontal (like floor plates), and harder yet to vary them exactly the way you want. Also, you have to seal the pigment after, which you don't have to do with this technical paint. And, painting the floor isnt' really super exciting, you know? I just want to get it done with, and have it look good.

No disrespect to weathering pigments, and you can get a lot more variety out of them. But if all you want is convincing rust, on a non-masterpiece, it's a nice, easy solution.

 Theduke07 wrote:
How is it 'hate' to say GW bubbles its users? It's no different than what AOL did back in the day.

It seems obvious to me that you don't like GW. If that isn't so, I misread your post and I apologize. In any case it seems like a negative comment about a pretty interesting product that nobody else makes.

More broadly, I don't see how GW 'bubbles' its hobbyists any more than say, PP. They have a nice, fairly complete system (I don't see how that's a bad thing) that has a few really unique colors and special products. If you really like the hobby, it's pretty hard to not buy stuff from other companies. A few examples: high end paintbrushes, airbrushes, wet palettes, brass etch, pigments, mediums, rotary tools, traditional files, and toms of dollar store things.

Their boltgun thing with compressed air was just the badger canister airbrush repacked... some people actually liked it, but I can only assume they never used a real airbrush . I think that was an epic a fail as I ever saw hehehe.

The paint change to the current system was massive, but it wasn't like they just changed a few colors. GW fundamentally changed their studio style and went from a method of mixing paints to one of picking from a paint library. In my opinion, the current system is far superior, because for folks who collect many armies, adding one more miniature is just much easier sans mixing.

Their primers are still black and white . But airbrush is so much better, IMO.

I think they have MPD with spray paints; most of the time they aren't available, especially in whatever color you might want. Powerful puckers they have!

 hybridmoments82 wrote:
I have no basis of comparison unfortunately. Last time I painted anything other than the past two weeks was when GW was pushing the glass paint pots you can knock someone out with if you threw it at their head hard enough.

Sorry, that was a bit of a semantics slip for me. I meant the citadel "sprays". Gotta get out of the habit of using sprays/basecoats/primer interchangeably.

LOL ... Tamika still makes pots kinda like them! I had some realllly old cotadel paints til a couple of years ago... they look like the current PP ones. If you like they sprays and such, try Army Painter's tinted primers. They are optimally colored for GW models (particularly SM chapters), and work better than primer spray + colored spray, I think.

Quarterdime wrote:Idiot proof? I'd like to say beginner friendly. This is obviously Games Workshop targeting new players, and is consistent with their redesign of the paint range. That's also part of the reason why they're putting out painting tutorials on youtube now. Nobody noticed that the paints were designed to work with their adjacent colors better. For example, I bought some Dryad Bark and then drybrushed some Gorthor Brown and I was shocked at how great it made my wood look. With just 2 steps, I feel like that was their plan all along. Like with Blood for the Blood god, or that blue oxide technical. It's for a person who might otherwise be intimidated by the concept of painting miniatures.

For sure!

Before New Citadel, I used a lot of Vallejo. I paint and collect quite a lot of models that I paint into different armies. I realize that probably isn't the norm. However, my issue is that when I go back to paint another one of "Custom Menoth Scheme #3", I want to be able to reproduce it quickly and easily.

Because I paint a lot of solo units (for instance, I will paint Borka, soon, but no other Trollbloods), I don't want to mix paint into bottles to make "Custom Blue #36", because guess what, on the entire Borka model, I'll use like, 1/2 ml of one blue, and 1/3ml of a couple more blues. I would rather just pick paints from my library, write it down, so that the next time there is a cool Trollblood model, I can just paint it the same.

Now, some of their technical paints, I absolutely love. Blood for the Blood God isn't even reproducible, as far as I'm concerned. Typhus Corrosion, Nurgle's Rot one, Ryza Rust, Nilakh Oxide -- they are just cool effects that are not only easy to do but highly reproducible. I don't think they are "noob paints" at all.

Also, I don't think that paints for beginners need to be differentiated from paints for more experienced painters. I mean, who doesn't want paint that makes the process easier, if it's not limiting?