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'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'
- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
I do as follows:
prime metal black
paint with boltgun metal
Highlight with chainmail
Wash with nuln oil
Apply typhus corrosion sparingly & especial around cracks & rivets
drybrush ryza rust
Red_Starrise wrote: I do as follows:
prime metal black
paint with boltgun metal
Highlight with chainmail
Wash with nuln oil
Apply typhus corrosion sparingly & especial around cracks & rivets
drybrush ryza rust
And then you have to re-edge highlight with (ideally) a couple metal colours again in succession. Without the final metal highlight over the rust paint it loses a lot of its effect.
Current Project: Random quaratine models!
Most Recently Completed: Stormcast Nightvault Warband
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I just put this image up on another thread (the one about the 160 set) -- the floor plates are done with typhus corrosion and ryza rust, and incredibly easy to do:
On the other thread, I wrote out the exact process (though there's no magic to it at all).
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/24 09:45:25
The floor plates are very quickly done: Black primer, then Leadbelcher with a 3/4" flat brush, then Nuln oil just to darken it a bit. Then the technical paint magic:
Using a crappy old round brush (about size 2) I put on Typhus Corrosion, thick in the crevices, and thin elsewhere. It goes on almost like a wash, but it has grit and gunk, and doesn't quite flow as much. This leaves the brownish, greasy-looking marks you see in all the crevices, and the oily ooze that is in some of the plates (like on the last two to the right). It's quite a bit of volume that the paint adds when you put it on thick..
Then, I liberally drybrush Ryza Rust, which leaves the rusty orange color. When you look at the compound, it just looks like Citadel dry, but you can see that the paint leaves a definite texture. On the left edge of the leftmost zoomed-in plate, the previously straight edge of the floor plate now looks weathered in a rusty, "kinda broken" way.
aWhen I'm done, I very gently drybrush a tiny bit of brass, so that the occasional spot looks shiny. The great thing is that this is very easy to do -- something that anyone, with any skill level can make look great with almost no effort and little time (though you do need to let the typhus corrosion fully dry, or it makes a mess).
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/27 15:49:30
So, what is the appeal of this paint compared to rust-colored weathering powders? Is it the ease of use offered by a paint you can use right out of the pot vs. something you have to mix up yourself? Or is it just that you can get Ryza rust from the shelf of your local GW's Official™ Citadel™ Paint™ Rack™, but have to look elsewhere for the alternatives? From what I've seen so far it looks like it's just a product that doesn't look as nice and is limited to drybrushing raised surfaces.
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/28 08:57:05
There is no such thing as a hobby without politics. "Leave politics at the door" is itself a political statement, an endorsement of the status quo and an attempt to silence dissenting voices.
Theduke07 wrote: It's idiot proof? that seems to be the target of the new paint line and products. lot of people don't look outside of the GW bubble.
This idiot in particular just poked his head outside of the GW "bubble" two days ago, and honestly, the world is a very complex and frightening place without my nuln oil and agrax earthshade.
Peregrine wrote: So, what is the appeal of this paint compared to rust-colored weathering powders? Is it the ease of use offered by a paint you can use right out of the pot vs. something you have to mix up yourself? Or is it just that you can get Ryza rust from the shelf of your local GW's Official™ Citadel™ Paint™ Rack™, but have to look elsewhere for the alternatives? From what I've seen so far it looks like it's just a product that doesn't look as nice and is limited to drybrushing raised surfaces.
I picked it up, almost without thinking, to try alongside the other Technicals when they first came out. Frankly, I already use powders and have a good paint only recipe for rust, so it sat in my paint rack for months.
I finally decided to try it while doing an Imperial Bunker recently, which I weathered the feth out of, and I find it very useful to stipple on to small areas for spots of extra corrosion, which isn't so easy to do with powders, as dry they don't go on as defined and they're too runny when mixed with alcohol.
It probably isn't anything you couldn't do with orange paint, but it is the right orange for corroded metal, once blended in a bit.
We find comfort among those who agree with us - growth among those who don't. - Frank Howard Clark
The wise man doubts often, and changes his mind; the fool is obstinate, and doubts not; he knows all things but his own ignorance.
The correct statement of individual rights is that everyone has the right to an opinion, but crucially, that opinion can be roundly ignored and even made fun of, particularly if it is demonstrably nonsense!” Professor Brian Cox
Peregrine wrote:So, what is the appeal of this paint compared to rust-colored weathering powders? Is it the ease of use offered by a paint you can use right out of the pot vs. something you have to mix up yourself? Or is it just that you can get Ryza rust from the shelf of your local GW's Official™ Citadel™ Paint™ Rack™, but have to look elsewhere for the alternatives? From what I've seen so far it looks like it's just a product that doesn't look as nice and is limited to drybrushing raised surfaces.
Theduke07 wrote:It's idiot proof? that seems to be the target of the new paint line and products. lot of people don't look outside of the GW bubble.
Wow, so much GW hate. Does it help that I've actually spent at least twice as much on Vallejo products as GW overall? I own all the Secret Weapon weathering pigments too, and lord knows how many fine arts pigments.
So, here's the thing. Yes, you can get a very similar effect in a number of different ways -- orange paint, no matter the shade, is not one of them, as Ryza Rust is grittier and leaves texture (not brush strokes, actual texture). With some mediums, maybe, but that would be a lot of work. In contrast, Ryza Rust is cheap and easy to use. It's $4 or so, and you don't need very much to do TONS of surface (I've only ever run out of 1, and I've done tons of terrain). If you prep the surface with typhus corrosion (as the product suggests), the finished product looks like my photo, is highly reproducible, and is a 2 step application.
If you use weathering pigments, which work great for things like tanks where it's supposed to get heavier towards the bottom, it is harder to get the appearance of consistency when your entire surface is horizontal (like floor plates), and harder yet to vary them exactly the way you want. Also, you have to seal the pigment after, which you don't have to do with this technical paint. And, painting the floor isnt' really super exciting, you know? I just want to get it done with, and have it look good.
No disrespect to weathering pigments, and you can get a lot more variety out of them. But if all you want is convincing rust, on a non-masterpiece, it's a nice, easy solution.
Theduke07 wrote: How is it 'hate' to say GW bubbles its users? It's no different than what AOL did back in the day.
It seems obvious to me that you don't like GW. If that isn't so, I misread your post and I apologize. In any case it seems like a negative comment about a pretty interesting product that nobody else makes.
More broadly, I don't see how GW 'bubbles' its hobbyists any more than say, PP. They have a nice, fairly complete system (I don't see how that's a bad thing) that has a few really unique colors and special products. If you really like the hobby, it's pretty hard to not buy stuff from other companies. A few examples: high end paintbrushes, airbrushes, wet palettes, brass etch, pigments, mediums, rotary tools, traditional files, and toms of dollar store things.
I do remember they tried to throw their two cents into the airbrush market with that horrible bolter gun airbrush thing, failed miserably, and since left the airbrush market alone. lol
My only qualm with GW is that they tend to change the names and configurations of their paint line. I found myself looking at conversion tables just so I knew what to buy with the new color names. Also, they wildly change their primer line. They used to have primers in every color (including Imperial Fists Yellow), then they went to just black and white, then released some more colors as of recently, and now are again transitioning to just black (and I think white as well), but are discontinuing all other colors. Very strange how often they change their minds on their paint line like that.
Other than that, you won't find more quality models in my opinion. Granted, they're pricey, but not pricey enough to deter me and my love for the game and the hobby. I do hear there are better paints out there, and I just began to seek other paints simply because I hear and see very good results from them, but that's not to say GW paint sucks, at least I don't think so.
But, as they say, to each his/her own. Really depends on the artist's preferences in the end.
Their boltgun thing with compressed air was just the badger canister airbrush repacked... some people actually liked it, but I can only assume they never used a real airbrush . I think that was an epic a fail as I ever saw hehehe.
The paint change to the current system was massive, but it wasn't like they just changed a few colors. GW fundamentally changed their studio style and went from a method of mixing paints to one of picking from a paint library. In my opinion, the current system is far superior, because for folks who collect many armies, adding one more miniature is just much easier sans mixing.
Their primers are still black and white . But airbrush is so much better, IMO.
I think they have MPD with spray paints; most of the time they aren't available, especially in whatever color you might want. Powerful puckers they have!
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/29 03:54:59
Talys wrote: Their boltgun thing with compressed air was just the badger canister airbrush repacked... some people actually liked it, but I can only assume they never used a real airbrush . I think that was an epic a fail as I ever saw hehehe.
The paint change to the current system was massive, but it wasn't like they just changed a few colors. GW fundamentally changed their studio style and went from a method of mixing paints to one of picking from a paint library. In my opinion, the current system is far superior, because for folks who collect many armies, adding one more miniature is just much easier sans mixing.
Their primers are still black and white . But airbrush is so much better, IMO.
I think they have MPD with spray paints; most of the time they aren't available, especially in whatever color you might want. Powerful puckers they have!
I have no basis of comparison unfortunately. Last time I painted anything other than the past two weeks was when GW was pushing the glass paint pots you can knock someone out with if you threw it at their head hard enough.
Sorry, that was a bit of a semantics slip for me. I meant the citadel "sprays". Gotta get out of the habit of using sprays/basecoats/primer interchangeably.
hybridmoments82 wrote: I have no basis of comparison unfortunately. Last time I painted anything other than the past two weeks was when GW was pushing the glass paint pots you can knock someone out with if you threw it at their head hard enough.
Sorry, that was a bit of a semantics slip for me. I meant the citadel "sprays". Gotta get out of the habit of using sprays/basecoats/primer interchangeably.
LOL ... Tamika still makes pots kinda like them! I had some realllly old cotadel paints til a couple of years ago... they look like the current PP ones. If you like they sprays and such, try Army Painter's tinted primers. They are optimally colored for GW models (particularly SM chapters), and work better than primer spray + colored spray, I think.
It's not really "hate" to point out that GW wants to sell you a complete package of wargaming models, paints, modeling supplies and rules, and they want to sell it all to you in their own retail stores where no competing products exist. And it's entirely fair to ask whether Ryza rust is a legitimately interesting product if you aren't limited to GW paints, or if it's like their knives/basing material/etc and just a way of making a GW option for something.
If you use weathering pigments, which work great for things like tanks where it's supposed to get heavier towards the bottom, it is harder to get the appearance of consistency when your entire surface is horizontal (like floor plates), and harder yet to vary them exactly the way you want.
But variation is important, and a big part of why you use weathering powders for something like this. Rust usually exists in irregular patches on exposed metal, it's not a uniform color. Mix a bit of brown wash and rust weathering powder and you'll get a wash that covers an entire surface but has subtle variation in color with some of the base metal showing through.
Also, you have to seal the pigment after, which you don't have to do with this technical paint.
You (almost) always want to do a coat of matte varnish after painting a model anyway, so this isn't a very big problem.
But if all you want is convincing rust, on a non-masterpiece, it's a nice, easy solution.
Ok, and this seems to answer my original question: it's a cheap and simple product that can be used straight out of the pot, but not very useful if you want the best possible results.
There is no such thing as a hobby without politics. "Leave politics at the door" is itself a political statement, an endorsement of the status quo and an attempt to silence dissenting voices.
LOL ... Tamika still makes pots kinda like them! I had some realllly old cotadel paints til a couple of years ago... they look like the current PP ones. If you like they sprays and such, try Army Painter's tinted primers. They are optimally colored for GW models (particularly SM chapters), and work better than primer spray + colored spray, I think.
Yeah, amazing how heavy a tackle box full of Citadel paints from 3rd edition could get. Loved those things. Still, I think the new pots are a vast improvement. Feels like the paint inside could stay pretty consistent for at least 2 decades judging by how much force is needed to pop it open.
Just bought a can of Army Painter Daemonic Yellow after watching a neat tutorial I found that uses it to paint Imperial Fists. Looks like it really cuts down on time getting that perfect IF yellow. Excited to see it in action!
LOL ... Tamika still makes pots kinda like them! I had some realllly old cotadel paints til a couple of years ago... they look like the current PP ones. If you like they sprays and such, try Army Painter's tinted primers. They are optimally colored for GW models (particularly SM chapters), and work better than primer spray + colored spray, I think.
Yeah, amazing how heavy a tackle box full of Citadel paints from 3rd edition could get. Loved those things.
You mean those plastic screw top things? Those were my most hated, paint would get around the rim and jam them up and they'd dry out all the time. Glass screw tops are annoying as well, but at least they don't dry out and when they get jammed up you can usually unjam them with some boiling water.
AllSeeingSkink wrote: You mean those plastic screw top things? Those were my most hated, paint would get around the rim and jam them up and they'd dry out all the time. Glass screw tops are annoying as well, but at least they don't dry out and when they get jammed up you can usually unjam them with some boiling water.
You're 100% spot-on. They were by far the worst, least-practical container for paints, heavy as hell, the caking of paint around the rims, the fact that the paint dried up IN the bottle in a matter of weeks if left unused. I bought the full spectrum of paints GW offered at the time. This was well before they had anything except your standard layer paint and sprays -- no dry paint, no oils, shades, inks, etc. After I finished a blood angels army at the time and went to start a Tyranid army, some of the paints started thickening already. Very disappointing and huge waste of money.
When I said "Love those things", it was purely for nostalgia purposes. Holding one of those glass octagon shaped containers brings me back to my weekends spent at my childhood hobby store, listening to the newest Alice in Chains hit on the radio while painting up some pewter space marines! Ohh man, those were the days!!!
This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2014/11/29 15:54:59
'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'
- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
Idiot proof? I'd like to say beginner friendly. This is obviously Games Workshop targeting new players, and is consistent with their redesign of the paint range. That's also part of the reason why they're putting out painting tutorials on youtube now. Nobody noticed that the paints were designed to work with their adjacent colors better. For example, I bought some Dryad Bark and then drybrushed some Gorthor Brown and I was shocked at how great it made my wood look. With just 2 steps, I feel like that was their plan all along. Like with Blood for the Blood god, or that blue oxide technical. It's for a person who might otherwise be intimidated by the concept of painting miniatures.
Reaper had paint triads long before GW set up their paint 'system', so it's not really anything new.
'It is a source of constant consternation that my opponents cannot correlate their innate inferiority with their inevitable defeat. It would seem that stupidity is as eternal as war.'
- Nemesor Zahndrekh of the Sautekh Dynasty Overlord of the Crownworld of Gidrim
Quarterdime wrote:Idiot proof? I'd like to say beginner friendly. This is obviously Games Workshop targeting new players, and is consistent with their redesign of the paint range. That's also part of the reason why they're putting out painting tutorials on youtube now. Nobody noticed that the paints were designed to work with their adjacent colors better. For example, I bought some Dryad Bark and then drybrushed some Gorthor Brown and I was shocked at how great it made my wood look. With just 2 steps, I feel like that was their plan all along. Like with Blood for the Blood god, or that blue oxide technical. It's for a person who might otherwise be intimidated by the concept of painting miniatures.
For sure!
Before New Citadel, I used a lot of Vallejo. I paint and collect quite a lot of models that I paint into different armies. I realize that probably isn't the norm. However, my issue is that when I go back to paint another one of "Custom Menoth Scheme #3", I want to be able to reproduce it quickly and easily.
Because I paint a lot of solo units (for instance, I will paint Borka, soon, but no other Trollbloods), I don't want to mix paint into bottles to make "Custom Blue #36", because guess what, on the entire Borka model, I'll use like, 1/2 ml of one blue, and 1/3ml of a couple more blues. I would rather just pick paints from my library, write it down, so that the next time there is a cool Trollblood model, I can just paint it the same.
Now, some of their technical paints, I absolutely love. Blood for the Blood God isn't even reproducible, as far as I'm concerned. Typhus Corrosion, Nurgle's Rot one, Ryza Rust, Nilakh Oxide -- they are just cool effects that are not only easy to do but highly reproducible. I don't think they are "noob paints" at all.
Also, I don't think that paints for beginners need to be differentiated from paints for more experienced painters. I mean, who doesn't want paint that makes the process easier, if it's not limiting?
Talys wrote: Also, I don't think that paints for beginners need to be differentiated from paints for more experienced painters. I mean, who doesn't want paint that makes the process easier, if it's not limiting?
It's a relevant difference in this case, because the only advantage of Ryza rust seems to be that it's easier to use than the "advanced" alternatives that look nicer. That's great if you're a newbie who needs to keep things simple and won't be getting top-level results anyway, but not very useful if you're a more experienced painter and want the best final result.
There is no such thing as a hobby without politics. "Leave politics at the door" is itself a political statement, an endorsement of the status quo and an attempt to silence dissenting voices.
Now, some of their technical paints, I absolutely love. Blood for the Blood God isn't even reproducible, as far as I'm concerned.
Tamiya Clear Red mixed Tamiya Smoke is just as good, if not better than Blood For The Blood God.
d-usa wrote: "When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
. I think that was an epic a fail as I ever saw hehehe.
