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I bought some Instamould a while back as I have some Eldar conversions I want to do, but due to the fact there are very few parts available for them, I didn't want to waste original weapons etc as I will be magnetising them. I don't fancy paying £20+ for one extra pistol or sword etc

I've tried using milliput which seems very sloppy, and also greenstuff which appears to be too hard to use. What material (available in UK) is the best to use when making casts?

I have no issues casting with milliput or green stuff, what do you mean by sloppy? You push in small pieces to fill the mould and allow the air to escape.

If you want really sharp edges get some resin like this:

http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B00IMZVCDO/ref=mw_dp_mpd?pd=1

I just mean the milliput seem a bit wet to use when I mix it up, which makes it easier to push into mould but takes ages to dry.

I guess I need to work on my technique too, as I've just be squishing a big blob into the mould. The reason I was doing that, is when I tried to use small bit, they didn't seem to blend together very well, and I was getting Frankenstein's monsters coming out my moulds.

I'm trying to create 3D objects mainly additional arms or copies of guns etc. There's not a lot of arms available other than ones holding guns

I use green stuff and never have a problem. If you want it to be a little more rigid, you can try to add a little bit of Apoxie Sculpt or Magic Sculpt to the Green Stuff to make it more firm. How much is a guessing game, but try 60 GS to 40 AC and test it out. I don't know how you end up with 'wet' gs unless you are using liquid gs, which I've not tried.

If you are casting two part molds, you may have a better time with another medium than Instant Mold. It seems to me a lot better for additional details bits rather than whole pieces of a model. Not saying it's not possible, just maybe something better to try. Not that that helps you with your medium issues...

So yeah, try mixing the GS with another sculpting medium. I've never tried it with miliput, but you could always test it out on something small before going bigger. GS is not really sandable after hardening, but adding in a stiffer apoxie it will help make it a little more rigid. Good Luck!

I like to mix the green and mil putty together and it works fine

Though the caveat to this is that i let it cure over night so than when i pull it out it isnt warped or messed up

I like to "paint" a layer of liquid green stuff down over the really fine details and then put in my green stuff. Using this method I've successfully copied the following:

Haqqislam backpack
Haqqislam forearm "pipboy"
Hassassin muyib helmet
Freikorps gas mask

The LGS helps prevent the common issue of loss of detail, I mean it's never as sharp as the original but that's the nature of a press mold. It's possible to do this all with LGS but it doesn't typically work well for me. Just remember to put in the GS while the LGS is damp but not wet.

Also, it really helps to try to do your outer layer of instant mold as a flat surface or a box around your master because it makes pressing the GS into the mold easier rather than pressing the instantmold equally into the GS.

Thanks for the tips everyone, I'll have to give it another try. The bits I'm trying to copy are:

A press mould of a harlequin mask, for my"mantle of the laughing God conversion".....yes using a harkequin head would be easier, but I don't do things the easy way lol

I've got hold of some expensive OOP eldar special weapons and harlequin bike cowls. I'd like some more, for my own army not to sell of course.

Would resin and silicon moulds be better for those? Isn't that quote expensive as well?