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Here is my finished Stormraven Gunship, with a passenger ducking out the side access point to shoot something

As always, I greatly appreciate your comments and criticism





I painted this entirely using the new Citadel brushes; if you want my thoughts on that, as well as some WIP and component pictures, you can check out this thread: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/649917.page#7856524

Also: if it is wrong to post this on both this and the P&M forum, please let me know. I didn't wan to put up my WIP and paintbrush thoughts on the showcase forum.

Thank you!!

Talys

Love it - really nice job!

Looks good, the weathering is nicely done, and the Marine's pose is perfect!

Very nice !

Sweet. It was totally worth the hassle of putting the chap on the open side door.

Did you prime red? I know basing with a brush and getting it that smooth is hard.

I can't really see any improvements to suggest.

That's amazing!

Loving it. What method did you use to get the "smooth" weathering effect?

Looks nice!

My only criticism is that there is too much red. A contrasting color (or even black) to pick out some details would have been a nice touch.

Fantastic job all around though.

Thanks, everyone!!

ColonelFazackerley wrote:Sweet. It was totally worth the hassle of putting the chap on the open side door.

Did you prime red? I know basing with a brush and getting it that smooth is hard.

I can't really see any improvements to suggest.

I primed it red & black -- the metallic pieces, like the landing gear and turbo jets, in black. I also hit all the red parts with a coat of Mephiston Red through an airbrush, and once dry, I painted over it again with a paintbrush -- because the airbrushed parts are shinier than the brush-on parts, and it wasn't like I was going to make it through the whole stormraven without making any mistakes

Liquitex Flo-Aid gets the coat nice and flat though -- that's what I use for reds, yellows, and whites!

Enigwolf wrote:Loving it. What method did you use to get the "smooth" weathering effect?

The muddy weathering is Typhus Corrosion, smudged with my fingers -- or a sharp q-tip where it's a tight spot. Some areas have Karak stone drybrushed on for dirt.

Where there's a "burnt" gradient (like the turbo jets, the gun barrels, etc), that's a glaze, feathered with water to fade it out. The wear along the edges is ironbreaker painted on; along the wings, drybrushed lightly.

 Talys wrote:

Enigwolf wrote:Loving it. What method did you use to get the "smooth" weathering effect?

The muddy weathering is Typhus Corrosion, smudged with my fingers -- or a sharp q-tip where it's a tight spot. Some areas have Karak stone drybrushed on for dirt.

Where there's a "burnt" gradient (like the turbo jets, the gun barrels, etc), that's a glaze, feathered with water to fade it out. The wear along the edges is ironbreaker painted on; along the wings, drybrushed lightly.

Thanks for sharing! If I may ask more, what do you mean it's a glaze feathered with water? Is that just diluted paint applied in multiple layers?

Did you use any shading washes? I have one of these base coated and I'm not sure how to go about it... Normally I put washes all over but with so many large flat panels I'm thinking trying to target the recesses would be better. Or maybe that Typhus corrosion you used is better?

Bloody beautiful and marine´s pose is fantastic.

Contrasting to some criticism above, there is never red enough. Even the white numbers were a necessary evil

That is a beautiful paint job!

Very nicely painted.

I actually don't really care for the guy hanging off the edge, and thats coming from a Dark Eldar player lol. Its mainly because of his pose, I have never really liked the kinda arm up with a weapon in it with the elbow bent.

I feel, as he is a blood angel, that he would be shooting everything, almost ready to jump out and punch an enemy plane.

Very nicely painted though, happy wargaming,

-Mikey

 Enigwolf wrote:

Thanks for sharing! If I may ask more, what do you mean it's a glaze feathered with water? Is that just diluted paint applied in multiple layers?

Feathering means softening the edges by diluting (the edge) with water. So, I start with a glaze by mixing a paint (or shade) with lahmian medium. I paint some in the area I want darker, then, before it dries, I paint just above it with a paintbrush with a little water. As the two touch, the glaze moves upwards a little, softening the edge. You can see it very clearly on the back of the turbine -- one end is leadbelcher, the other end is a heavy double dose of nuhlm oil on leadbelcher. To make the "heat damage transition", I feathered up the huhln oil, then feathered agrax., and finally feathered it with seraphim sepia.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 LutherMax wrote:
Did you use any shading washes? I have one of these base coated and I'm not sure how to go about it... Normally I put washes all over but with so many large flat panels I'm thinking trying to target the recesses would be better. Or maybe that Typhus corrosion you used is better?

I shaded the recesses with agrax earthshade, painting right onto the recesses. Personally, I don't like shading a large armor plate, because if it dries unevenly, it's just too much work to fix. Besides, it darkens the red too much.

 Talys wrote:

 Enigwolf wrote:

Thanks for sharing! If I may ask more, what do you mean it's a glaze feathered with water? Is that just diluted paint applied in multiple layers?

Feathering means softening the edges by diluting (the edge) with water. So, I start with a glaze by mixing a paint (or shade) with lahmian medium. I paint some in the area I want darker, then, before it dries, I paint just above it with a paintbrush with a little water. As the two touch, the glaze moves upwards a little, softening the edge. You can see it very clearly on the back of the turbine -- one end is leadbelcher, the other end is a heavy double dose of nuhlm oil on leadbelcher. To make the "heat damage transition", I feathered up the huhln oil, then feathered agrax., and finally feathered it with seraphim sepia.

Cheers, thank you!

Great job Talys I love the weathering and interior monitors in particular.

 Minimachine wrote:
Great job Talys I love the weathering and interior monitors in particular.

Thanks for noticing that!! The entire interior is actually painted, but it's very difficult to photograph. The other side, the radar actually has a few dots on it for incoming servants of Chaos that will soon be purified. I wanted to have a couple of seated marines on the bench, but the only sitting marines I had were for stormravens, and since I don't usually tint my windows, so I didn't want to use them up.

I've thought about magnetizing the top hull of the Stormraven so that the top can be removed to show interior detail.. Haven't quite figured out the best way to do it though, since you lose structural integrity to hold it together. A pity they make sure beautiful interior detail for so many vehicles with no way to see it.

 Enigwolf wrote:
I've thought about magnetizing the top hull of the Stormraven so that the top can be removed to show interior detail.. Haven't quite figured out the best way to do it though, since you lose structural integrity to hold it together. A pity they make sure beautiful interior detail for so many vehicles with no way to see it.

Yeah, for sure. When you're actually holding the model, if you open the front and back doors (and especially since I have one of the side doors open) there is enough light that you can get a pretty good idea. But the effort in painting the little imperial arch thingies that make up the chair, the consoles and controls and such, are definitely lost.

I don't think it would work removing the top plate though, at least not unless you cut the top plate in half, either just before the top turret or (probably better) just behind. The wings are attached to the top plate, and are very heavy -- plus the fins coming off the two jets on either end have mini wings that touch the tail piece, so you wouldn't want to move that. For stability of the model, I think you're ok. I always paint the inside of the bottom part of a stormraven without the top piece on (and the ceiling, which his the bottom of the top plate), and it's extremely sturdy -- not at all like a Rhino chassis vehicle, for example.

If you ever do anything like that, I'd love to see it!!

 Talys wrote:

 Enigwolf wrote:
I've thought about magnetizing the top hull of the Stormraven so that the top can be removed to show interior detail.. Haven't quite figured out the best way to do it though, since you lose structural integrity to hold it together. A pity they make sure beautiful interior detail for so many vehicles with no way to see it.

Yeah, for sure. When you're actually holding the model, if you open the front and back doors (and especially since I have one of the side doors open) there is enough light that you can get a pretty good idea. But the effort in painting the little imperial arch thingies that make up the chair, the consoles and controls and such, are definitely lost.

I don't think it would work removing the top plate though, at least not unless you cut the top plate in half, either just before the top turret or (probably better) just behind. The wings are attached to the top plate, and are very heavy -- plus the fins coming off the two jets on either end have mini wings that touch the tail piece, so you wouldn't want to move that. For stability of the model, I think you're ok. I always paint the inside of the bottom part of a stormraven without the top piece on (and the ceiling, which his the bottom of the top plate), and it's extremely sturdy -- not at all like a Rhino chassis vehicle, for example.

If you ever do anything like that, I'd love to see it!!

I still haven't finished assembling my stormraven yet, so I'll let you know if I do! I'm thinking of using the plastics sprues and using very finely-applied heat using a heat gun to melt the ends, and use that as a "support strut" for the wings. Almost as if building a superstructure or a skeleton on the inside. This will take the stress off of the top plate and allow it to be removed. But you're right, cutting it right where you mentioned was the other option.

 Talys wrote:

 Minimachine wrote:
Great job Talys I love the weathering and interior monitors in particular.

Thanks for noticing that!! The entire interior is actually painted, but it's very difficult to photograph. The other side, the radar actually has a few dots on it for incoming servants of Chaos that will soon be purified. I wanted to have a couple of seated marines on the bench, but the only sitting marines I had were for stormravens, and since I don't usually tint my windows, so I didn't want to use them up.

I thought you captured the screen glare really well! Little details like that can really help take a paintjob to the next level from what I've seen.

Nice job with the hobby work and customization.

Dude, is this in the upcoming Warhammer visions?? Congrats man!

Look great, love the weathering. I find it really difficult to work with red paints, wish I could paint red like that!

Kahnawake

 Bottle wrote:
Dude, is this in the upcoming Warhammer visions?? Congrats man!

Really? Cool! It was the model of the week in White Dwarf #80, IIRC.

@Kahnawake - thank you! I confess that red got a lot easier with Mephiston Red from GW

Nicely done. I love it

 Talys wrote:

 Bottle wrote:
Dude, is this in the upcoming Warhammer visions?? Congrats man!

Really? Cool! It was the model of the week in White Dwarf #80, IIRC.

@Kahnawake - thank you! I confess that red got a lot easier with Mephiston Red from GW

Click on the Nagash image on What's New Today:

http://www.games-workshop.com/en-GB/blog/blog.jsp?_requestid=98075

That's yours right? :-)

@Bottle - oh, yeah!! thanks for showing

As soon as I saw it I was thinking, "I know that storm raven!"

Congratulations once again, the model is spectacular so it's a no brainier it would get put into Visions eventually.

I am a little surprised GW doesn't tell you when they are going to put one of your images in one of their books however.