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I'll soon be painting up a Chaos Rhino in the same scheme as my Chaos infantry, and a vital part of that scheme is a red glaze after the basecoat. The Rhino has lots of flat suraces, won't a glaze on that just pool up and look ugly?

Airbrushing washes and glazes works for the larger surfaces really well. Barring that just go slowly in the areas that you need it rather than slathering it on like washing.

I don't have an airbrush, how would I go about with a paintbrush?

Work quickly.

I do it for my vehicles, and it often ends up blotchy. Part of that is it drying while I work, so it pools/dries, and I end up with uneven layers. It’s more evident in pictures then in person, but it’s there.

If I had it to do over again, I’d pick a scheme that didn’t use washes for my Ultramarines.

Use oil paints instead of GW washes. They'll stay wet much longer and it's a lot easier to blend them and fade the edges if you get lines and puddles.

Enamel washes are another option. AK interactive makes a bunch of them.

You also need to ask yourself why you're doing washes and glazes at all.

Let's say you're painting the side of a tank that's perfectly flat, or the fixed wing of an aircraft.

If you're trying to make those large panels a certain, clean, crisp color, there's no advantage at all to using a wash or glaze on the flat part of the panel. If you want to brighten the color -- just layer it with whatever color you want to layer it with. If there are details that you want to accentuate (as recesses), just glaze or wash those recesses with a detail brush instead of brushing on a whole bunch of paint. Then gently tidy up any hard edges, if necessary.

You also have to remember that typically we wash small models because it's an easy way to get paint into the recesses. As the model gets larger, this is less of an issue, as a lot of the details get bigger -- You wouldn't glaze a full sized tank, right? You'd just paint it the color you wanted it and let light fall naturally where it will.

On the other hand, if you want the large panels to NOT have a flat color against the panel, a wash followed by a glaze can do just that. A sponge can sometimes give you a nice effect too.

Some people use washes and glazes for weathering, too. I personally don't like this, as I like more control as to where the extra paint goes, which is often not where gravity dictates. IMO, drybrushes, regular paints, sponges, and even my fingers (to smear paint) are better for this task.

I'm using the glaze to achieve a rust effect. Might sound weird, but it works. I guess I can just skip it on vehicles.

I used the old "Flesh Wash" from GW on my CSM to get a rusty look.

You just need to wash only the upper most surface of the model (ie the top armour when the vehicle is on its wheels, the left side of the vehicle when it is on its right side, etc) so that the wash pools across the panels, rather than all draining down to the bottom of the plates.

This is a black prime, a white wash (using watered down white as a wash), then flesh wash.

 Talys wrote:
Some people use washes and glazes for weathering, too. I personally don't like this, as I like more control as to where the extra paint goes, which is often not where gravity dictates. IMO, drybrushes, regular paints, sponges, and even my fingers (to smear paint) are better for this task.

You need to try enamel washes for weathering. They work great and have the control that acrylic washes don't. You can apply them in to a crevice, clean off the brush and then streak them down the side, wipe off the brush again and blend the streaks in to the rest of the panel. One thing I've really been liking is to paint some dirt coloured enamel wash in to the crevices and the immediately clean off the brush and start sweeping it over the entire surface, it give you the build up of dirt in the crevice but then also filters the rest of the panel and you can even top it off by cleaning off the brush against and sweeping it up and down the model to create a streaking effect. And if you ever create something you don't like, just crack out the white spirit and clean it off.

The only downside is you have to have a well cured base to put it on (wait a day or two for your acrylics to dry before hitting them with an enamel wash) because the enamel wash will strip uncured acrylics.

@AllSeeingSkink - I've never used enamel washes, though I always hear about them, and the results look great! Maybe I will take your advice and give it a shot some time soon

My favorite product for doing grease/grime/mud since it came out has been typhus corrosion. It's so easy to use, has a nice grit mix, and smudges nicely using a q-tip or fingers. All the weathering on this is done with Typhus Corrosion and then finished with drybrush of a lighter color (the grease stains are just straight typhus corrosion) -