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Hi

So I've just greenstuff-ed up some chains for my Black Templars. In my (admittedly SUPER limited) experience of greenstuff, glue seems to melt greenstuff. What should I do?
Cheers for any help, and thanks for looking!
Poser McBogus

Superglue or epoxy shouldn't melt GS. Try it out on a spare lump.

Superglue works best if the parts meet perfectly (so if you pressed the greenstuff on the the model when it was uncured to create a matching surface), epoxy works well when there's a bit if a gap to fill.

Though I'm curious what glue you are using that melts greenstuff? Greenstuff is an epoxy putty, epoxies are known for their tenacious behavior and resistance to damage, so I'm surprised you found a glue that melts it.

Especially if he found a glue that "melts it" but doesn't harm the model under it.

I seem to remember Testors Liquid Plastic Cement to contain MEK. Might be that..???

My guess is that you didn't let it harden properly, let the green stuff harden for 24 hours before gluing. Superglue does tend to soften unhardened green stuff but there is a use to doing it on purpose as below.



On metal models that can't be pinned, small amount of superglue on side A + fresh mixed 50/50 green stuff in middle + small amount of superglue on side B = super hard superior bond than either alone.

Not sure why, I'm not a chemist, but the results are awesome....again let set for 24 hours before messing with it. Another benefit to this over liquid/gel epoxy is the "mushrooming" of excess green stuff out of the joint is easily cut away, compared to 2 part liquid/gel epoxy.

Make sure you let the greenstuff cure before trying to glue it. I experienced greenstuff seemingly "melt" in my first attempts with modeling. It really wasn't melting, it was just kind of mixing with glue and was really messy. That might be whats happening.

Rune Stonegrinder wrote:
On metal models that can't be pinned, small amount of superglue on side A + fresh mixed 50/50 green stuff in middle + small amount of superglue on side B = super hard superior bond than either alone.

Not sure why, I'm not a chemist, but the results are awesome....again let set for 24 hours before messing with it. Another benefit to this over liquid/gel epoxy is the "mushrooming" of excess green stuff out of the joint is easily cut away, compared to 2 part liquid/gel epoxy.

I've heard Ebob (of Ebob Miniatures) mention it's because the strongest superglue bond involves the thinnest possible layer of superglue. Since the putty conforms to the shapes and irregularities of both joint surfaces, it creates the the thinnest possible glue layer between mini component and putty.
I'm definitely no chemist myself, but it does seem to work alright, doesn't it?

 Vermis wrote:

Rune Stonegrinder wrote:
On metal models that can't be pinned, small amount of superglue on side A + fresh mixed 50/50 green stuff in middle + small amount of superglue on side B = super hard superior bond than either alone.

Not sure why, I'm not a chemist, but the results are awesome....again let set for 24 hours before messing with it. Another benefit to this over liquid/gel epoxy is the "mushrooming" of excess green stuff out of the joint is easily cut away, compared to 2 part liquid/gel epoxy.

I've heard Ebob (of Ebob Miniatures) mention it's because the strongest superglue bond involves the thinnest possible layer of superglue. Since the putty conforms to the shapes and irregularities of both joint surfaces, it creates the the thinnest possible glue layer between mini component and putty.
I'm definitely no chemist myself, but it does seem to work alright, doesn't it?

yes, it does. I've knocked over models that I've done this too and not even a small crack. yet in the past when I only superglued, parts came off instantly. Ebob could be right.

Yeah I'm pretty sure it's because superglue is a poor gap filler and works best when the parts meet perfectly, greenstuff is a good gap filler and takes up the extra space. Greenstuff is also tougher so probably would make the surface resistant to damage (in the sense that it is ever so slightly rubbery so that energy from an impact that might otherwise break the superglue can somewhat be absorbed by the greenstuff, basically the joint can flex slightly instead of just shattering).

It might also be because greenstuff is ever so slightly absorbent before it's fully cured, allowing the superglue to somewhat soak in to it.... I'm not sure on that point though as I've never tested it. A lot of epoxy putties are slightly absorbent before they've cured, I didn't think greenstuff was, but maybe it is.

 Tjomball wrote:
I seem to remember Testors Liquid Plastic Cement to contain MEK. Might be that..???

But you could empty a bottle of plastic cement, and it wouldn't help to glue GS, whether it melted or not

I'd always heard the best glue for GS (i.e. most likely to create a good bond) was more GS.

Thanks for the help! I think I probably didn't let the greenstuff cure properly, I've since used it with superglue and had no problems! Cheers. So does uncured greenstuff just sort of stick to plastic then?