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I consider stripping converting and repainting parts of my huge orks collection. At least 100~200+ models of infantry and more if I like the progress.
What is the best way with the least effort to remove paint from plastic models preferably with materials available in Europe / The Netherlands or is shippable to my home.

You've got pretty much 3 options;

1. Alcohol (ethanol / isopropanol)
2. Dot3 Brake Fluid
3. Cleaners/degreasers (Biostrip, Simple green, whatever)

Alcohol is _pretty_ good
Dot3 brake fluid is amazing, but horrible stuff to deal with
Cleaners is really hit and miss, I have had no luck with simple green, for example, yet others swear by it.

Whatever you choose to do, test it on a model and work out what kind of effort you are going to need to put in. For 200+ models, you want as little as possible, so a light scrub of a toothbrush and that is it.

I used isopropyl alcohol to strip some old RTB01 Marines from 20 years ago. I just submerged them in a jar full of it for 30 minutes and then used a toothbrush to remove the paint.

kb_lock wrote:
Whatever you choose to do, test it on a model and work out what kind of effort you are going to need to put in. For 200+ models, you want as little as possible, so a light scrub of a toothbrush and that is it.

This. I have removed some paint from models in the past ( 15 years ago) but it involved a lot of tooth brushing and picking the lasts pats of rubbery paint remainders out of the gabs with a toothpick . Not sure what I used then but I would love to hear of experiences with something less labour intensive that is still safe for plastic.

Castrol Super Clean (in the purple bottle) is the best; no need to look at anything else. It's available with the degreasers at most auto parts / repair stores.

Wow, 200 models, lol. That's a job.

At that quantity, I would suggest starting in a garage (or outside), Dettol, and borrow or rent an industrial ultrasonic cleaner Not a little dinky $50 amazon jobbie, a REAL ultrasonic cleaner, one that temperature and frequency controls (and a large enough tank). Then you can run it at 40-50 degrees, and do 8 hours stretches at 25k, 30k, 35k, 40k Hz, with all 200 miniatures in there at the same time. Then put them in some kind of strainer, hose them down in a wash basin, change the Dettol, and do it all again

You'll still have to go in there with a toothbrusth hand scrape away at some of the stuff at the end if you really want to strip them down bare, I think.

I used to use simple green back in the day as well as denatured alcohol, which does work, but I recommend using a full face respirator and butyl gloves in all seriousness. I have been reassured that fumes from denatured alcohol doesn't cause blindness, but I still have a stigma about it, since my vision worsened right around the same time I was cleaning vast quantities of models with the stuff. The logic behind denatured alcohol is that it has a similar effect to acetone, but does not melt like acetone, nor is it nearly as hazardous to your skin.


When I say full face respirator, I mean literally that. Think military gas mask with a 40mm filter

 Captain Fantastic wrote:
I
When I say full face respirator, I mean literally that. Think military gas mask with a 40mm filter

Don't worry I have some done some biochemistry in the past as long As I know what in there I will be able to take the safety precocious or decide that it isn't something I would like to use outside a fume-hood and thus would skip.



Automatically Appended Next Post:
@TalysMade
Thx for the ultrasone cleaning idea.

I use isopropyl alcohol, since it smells nicer than any other stripping agent and I can use it for other things like cleaning and disinfecting random things.

I use this stuff I call "purple power"
It's like simple green I assume...but that's not available in Canada I don't think


The key is to be patient... And by patient I mean leave those models in the cleaner for at least 1 week...more is better though.

I cleaned a few models here and there by doing this and then scrubbing with a hard brush, works well but don't expect them to look brand new the details will still have some paint on them though

Isopropyl alcohol is wonderful stuff.
Dump your model in a tub full of the stuff, shove a lid on it. Wait 10 min, give it a shake and then get in there with a pair of rubber gloves and a clipped down toothbrush! =D
(Make sure to scrub the minis IN the alcohol though, goes a lot easier ^^)

As an avid model stripper who has tried it all I would suggest that you go with the super clean in the purple bottle. If you pair this up with a heated ultrasonic cleaner you can get models that look like they were just clipped off the sprue with minimal scrubbing. Acrylic paints just fall right off under running water. Just be advised that it is pretty rough on the ultrasonic, the plastic will cloud and become brittle.

As you're in Europe, ignore all of that advice, especially the isopropyl alcohol, which will soften the plastic of your models, even if it doesn't have time to visibly start melting detail.

Get some Biostrip from eBay. I just spent today cleaning off eight or nine plastic RTB Rhinos and Predators, six Rogue Trader era Land Speeders and a bunch of Imperial Guard. That used about a 15-20% of a tub of Biostrip that cost less than £10. (Next job is a bunch of old beakie marines). I'm not gonna lie and say it was no effort, but I've used Dettol, Fairy Power Spray and Isopropyl alcohol, along with a sonic cleaner, all fairly extensively, and Biostrip is the best I've ever come across.

ITT: Euro isopropanol is different isopropanol in the rest of the world.

I have never once had an issue with isopropyl softening my minis Oo I leave them in there for weeks at a time if I'm feeling lazy.

I'm a big fan of acetone free nail polish remover. submerge, wait 30 minutes, and then gently brush off the paint with a hard bristled brush.

I have used many different methods and the best by a long way is dettol.

http://www.wilko.com/multi-purpose-cleaners/dettol-liquid-antiseptic-disinfectant-500ml/invt/0049990

You can leave the miniatures in there for as long as you want and they are almost as good as new when you strip the paint. much better than acetone free nail polish remover which is what I had previously used.

I would second the vote for dettol or fairy power spray.

I used a flash kitchen/surface cleaner once and although it did work, it was not quick.

 Fifty wrote:
As you're in Europe, ignore all of that advice, especially the isopropyl alcohol, which will soften the plastic of your models, even if it doesn't have time to visibly start melting detail.

Get some Biostrip from eBay. I just spent today cleaning off eight or nine plastic RTB Rhinos and Predators, six Rogue Trader era Land Speeders and a bunch of Imperial Guard. That used about a 15-20% of a tub of Biostrip that cost less than £10. (Next job is a bunch of old beakie marines). I'm not gonna lie and say it was no effort, but I've used Dettol, Fairy Power Spray and Isopropyl alcohol, along with a sonic cleaner, all fairly extensively, and Biostrip is the best I've ever come across.

I came here to say Biostrip 20.

Strips quickly - leave them overnight if you have to

Washes/scrubs off with water - no problems with it gumming up or disposing of it

Won't damage plastic models

Doesn't smell or leave bad smells on plastic

Skin contact is completely safe

Cheap

If you can get it, I'd recommend it over everything including Dettol or Simple Green.

The UK formula for Fairy Power Spray has changed, and it is no longer effective. May be different in The Netherlands

Do yourself a favour and don't mess around with brake fluid, Nitromors or any of the other nasty stuff