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Made in se
Ancient Space Wolves Venerable Dreadnought






I... actually don't know. Help?

I've been thinking about adding snow to my models. I've got PVA+baking soda on the bases as snow, but I want it to be on the minis. In the creases of cloth, between armour plates and so on. I'd prefer not to use the PVA method.

To Valhall! ~2800 points

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Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

You may need to look at mixing mediums from a local art store.


 
   
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Never Forget Isstvan!





Chicago

The baking soda will eventually yellow if I am correct, you might be better off trying something different.

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Made in us
Fireknife Shas'el






The yellowing can be stopped by adding a small bit of white paint to the mix.

And the pva mix on the models wouldn't be a big problem if you add in more of the baking soda to make it "clumpy"
I've used this before and if you want to remove it, it will just flake off without taking any underlying paint with it. Or should at least, it's been a while since I've done it or needed to remove it.

Either way, just a simple water soak would be enough to remove it if you wanted.

I'm expecting an Imperial Knights supplement dedicated to GW's loyalist apologetics. Codex: White Knights "In the grim dark future, everything is fine."

"The argument is that we have to do this or we will, bit by bit,
lose everything that we hold dear, everything that keeps the business going. Our crops will wither, our children will die piteous
deaths and the sun will be swept from the sky."
-Tom Kirby 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Why not some kind of flock?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Authentic-Snow-Flocking-Powder-Sno-Bond-Flock-Christmas-2-LBS-free-shipping-/231689753304
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

GW do a textured snow paint. It is not bad.
It's a solid "okay".
Benefits include ability to apply it with a brush, and not looking furry.


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Utilizing Careful Highlighting





at the keyboard

Just a few interesting points on this general subject as I've been talking about this on a couple other forums as well, especially for terrain

several people have suggested that the PVA glue you use be low or non acid (apparently that's part of what interacts with the baking soda, causing issues), to put salt on the wet mixture after application (also, gives it a snow crystal look) and that the main culprit for yellowing is likely UV light

or as one of my chemist friends said:
My guess would be that it is photoxidation of the PVA since it is known to yellow this way - with the foaming up with the bicarb you would have a much larger surface area for reaction with the air, so the yellowing would be likely to be more noticeable than with some other applications. So if you could put a coat of clear varnish over the snow once it sets it would probably stop it. Keeping it out of sunlight should also help. Best of all would be to keep your dioramas sealed under nitrogen or argon.
as I got curious and asked for their opinion

Anyway, my take away from this whole thing would be: at a minimum, if you use sodium bicarbonate (baking soda), seal it afterwards

   
 
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