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Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






Hi all,

I just got my first airbrush and compressor with tank. Only issue I’ve noticed so far is the valve and moisture trap are askew when tightened to the tank. I tried turning it different ways but it always ends up in this position when tightened (see pic). Is the compressor safe to use like this? Will the moisture trap and valve/pressure indicator work when it is askew? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you!
[Thumb - first - Copy.jpg]

   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

They will both work fine. The only issue is you'll have to incline the moisture trap to empty it.


[ Mordian 183rd ] - an ongoing Imperial Guard story with crayon drawings!
[ "I can't believe it's not Dakka!" ] - a buttery painting and crafting blog
 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






As buttery said, it will work just fine. On the other hand, there's no reason not to fix and have it be straight. It looks nicer and will empty out properly

This is also a good exercise, because you should learn how NPT fittings work. That way, when you invariably get a leak on your compressor, you can fix it!

First, realize that when fitted properly, joints don't have to be so tight that they're going to bust. If the joint leaks, tightening it more is almost never going to make it leak less. So you don't need to crank it til it's going to break off. There are essentially 3 ways that joints like the 1/4" NPT fittings that the regulator uses are sealed. Basically, if you don't seal the fitting, air will leak out between the threads, which don't mate with airtight perfection. The 3 methods are:

1. The easiest is O-Ring. You'll find this on the hose that attaches to your regulator, quick-connects, and fittings that must be put on and taken off. You don't find O-Rings on joints that are meant to be permanent.

2. The second is a thread-sealing goo. You find lots of these on cheap compressors, and I hate it. Although it works perfectly, when you take the fitting apart, there's tones of flaky crap that you have to clean off that goes everywhere.

3. The third, used by most plumbers is Teflon tape. This is your friend when it comes to fixing leaks on your compressor. It's really cheap, and it's totally effective. You can buy it at any hardware store, and most dollar stores. You can also use it on your pipes if you're putting in new faucets and that kind of thing

So, after you have some Teflon tape, unscrew the regulator and clean off any gunk. Tape the male NPT connector, which will be on the compressor side, wrapping the tape in a clockwise direction. This is absolutely critical! If you wrap it counterclockwise, when you screw the regulator on, the tape will just tear, disintegrate, and fall off.

Then take the regulator, and twist it on (do NOT loosen it; just keep tightening) until it's in the position you want and relatively snug. It doesn't need to be super tight.

Presto! That's it!

In case you have any doubts on how to apply tefflon tape:

http://engineerblogs.org/2011/09/trick-of-the-trade-applying-teflon-tape/

Also, for your purposes (small hobby compressor), don't bother with the expensive super duper tape (it's thicker and much better if you're doing plumbing or taping up big compressor fittings). The dollar store stuff will work the same.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/01/18 07:05:19


 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

That link doesn't specify it, but 5 times around with plumber's tape (pulled taut) is what i was taught.
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User






Oh man, this is great help, thanks all! I watched the vids on teflon tape and have some on the way thanks to Amazon Prime. Turns out the joint leaks quite a bit of air even when fastened, so the tape is going to be a must either way. While we're on the subject of the compressor - what's this red thing on the side of the tank for? I assume it's for releasing air if needed but have no idea how to 'work it'. Also; how do I remove the moisture trap? Seems that simply turning it counter clockwise isn't doing the trick. Pics attached for reference. Thanks again!
[Thumb - red.jpg]
Red pin

[Thumb - container.jpg]
Moisture Trap

   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





The red thing is a safety valve, you shouldn't need to mess with it. It will slide open if a dangerous amount of pressure builds up, though it's mainly to protect the motor, I wouldn't worry about it exploding or anything, there isn't enough pressure for that.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2016/01/19 09:06:56


 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






As Smacks said, it's a safety valve -- but not one for you to pull to release air, even though there's a ring there You can experiment with it when the tank is empty; don't play with it when the tank is full.

If you pull on the safety valve when the tank is full, you'll startle yourself with an explosive amount of air that will come rushing out of relatively small aperture.

After you are done with airbrushing, you should empty out the tank, though. On many hobby compressors, this will be a brass plug at the bottom of the tank. On higher end compressors or contractors' compressors, you'll have a shutoff that looks like a knife switch. You want to open (or unplug) this valve, because if you don't, water will accumulate inside the tank and rust it out. A little tray or piece of paper towel where the hole is a good thing, as it will slowly drip out any accumulation in there.
   
Made in gb
Stalwart Veteran Guard Sergeant





Salisbury

Not trying to hijack the thread, but what does the moisture trap actually do, in this context. I understand how they work, and use them on breathing equipment at work, where there is a constant pressure for several hours. However, on my small compressor at home which I only use for airbrushing the moisture trap has never collected a drop. Is this because of the relatively low pressure and time it is used for? Or is my cheap compressor knackered and I've never noticed? Either way, the airbrush seems fine!

CLACKAVOID (n.) Technical BBC term for a page of dialogue from Blake's Seven.
 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





 Inflatable love badger wrote:
Not trying to hijack the thread, but what does the moisture trap actually do, in this context. I understand how they work, and use them on breathing equipment at work, where there is a constant pressure for several hours. However, on my small compressor at home which I only use for airbrushing the moisture trap has never collected a drop. Is this because of the relatively low pressure and time it is used for? Or is my cheap compressor knackered and I've never noticed? Either way, the airbrush seems fine!
It's a mixture of pressure and humidity. If there is a lot of moisture in the air then it will tend to condense inside the tank, then it makes its way out through the airbrush and causes it to splutter. The moisture trap is intended to prevent that from happening. If you're spraying indoors, in a relatively dry environment, then you probably won't see it trap an awful lot. So long as your airbrush isn't spluttering you can assume the trap is working.


This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2016/01/19 15:18:15


 
   
Made in us
The Daemon Possessing Fulgrim's Body





Devon, UK

It's much more important w/o the tank.

My old compressor recently gave up the ghost, and in my then ignorance I'd only ever bought a non-tank one. The issue that had was the compressor would heat the air once it had been running for a few minutes (which it did constantly without a tank) encouraging condensation. The moisture trap was constantly catching build up, and even then I was researching a second trap around the time it packed up due to constant issues with water finding its way to the brush.

A now better informed 2015 version of myself bought a replacement with a tank attached, and there's been no hint of moisture at all in the trap.

We find comfort among those who agree with us - growth among those who don't. - Frank Howard Clark

The wise man doubts often, and changes his mind; the fool is obstinate, and doubts not; he knows all things but his own ignorance.

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Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

kb_lock wrote:
That link doesn't specify it, but 5 times around with plumber's tape (pulled taut) is what i was taught.
Five times is way too much. Twice is all you need.

I can't stress this enough because it comes up all the time, but PFTE tape does not seal a tapered thread joint. It is meant to work as a lubricant for the threaded joint to help the male threads get deep enough into the female threads for a proper seal. You can't apply tape to loose or damaged joint and expect it to stop a leak.

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in us
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade





Chicago

I pull on the red valve all the time.... Just like a big normal air compressor has a big air released valve..... Its not a grenade.....

 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






@Azrea13 & Inflatable - the distance between your compressor and your airbrush matters a lot too. What happens is that a compressor heats up air. As that air travels to the airbrush, it cools, and this causes condensation. The longer the hose, the more cooling (and therefore moisture) will accumulate. The reason you have more moisture without the tank, Azreal, is that with the tank, the air may have a chance to cool a little before it gets pushed down the hose (this is also why moisture builds up in tanks).

It is for this reason that professional compressor guys will tell you to put the moisture trap relatively close to your device. This is especially true if you have a compressor in your garage supplying air to your hobby room far away.


 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
kb_lock wrote:
That link doesn't specify it, but 5 times around with plumber's tape (pulled taut) is what i was taught.
Five times is way too much. Twice is all you need.

I can't stress this enough because it comes up all the time, but PFTE tape does not seal a tapered thread joint. It is meant to work as a lubricant for the threaded joint to help the male threads get deep enough into the female threads for a proper seal. You can't apply tape to loose or damaged joint and expect it to stop a leak.


I'm sorry, but you're not entirely correct. Yes, PTFE tape is a lubricant, and this function is important. But PTFE tape / thread seal tape / Teflon tape / plumber's tape is also a deformable filler that seals the joints.

You are absolutely correct that it won't stop leaks on loose or damaged joints. But it does fill in the gap between the joints, as common joints like NPT male/female connectors you see on airbrush and compressor parts aren't machined anywhere near perfectly enough to prevent liquids and gases from escaping through the little gaps in the thread.

I kind of wrap it around randomly A plumber once told me "a couple of times". It really doesn't take much to get the job done. What's really important is that you go clockwise, and that you don't leave a little bit of tape that will break off and go into the hose.


https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thread_seal_tape

Thread seal tape (also known as PTFE tape or plumber's tape) is a polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) film for use in sealing pipe threads. The tape is sold cut to specific widths and wound on a spool, making it easy to wind around pipe threads. It is also known by the genericised trade-name Teflon tape; while Teflon is in fact identical to PTFE, DuPont (the trade-mark holders) consider this usage incorrect, especially as they no longer manufacture Teflon in tape form.[1] Thread seal tape lubricates allowing for a deeper seating of the threads, and it helps prevent the threads from seizing when being unscrewed.[2] The tape also works as a deformable filler and thread lubricant, helping to seal the joint without hardening or making it more difficult to tighten,[3] and instead making it easier to tighten.[2]

Typically the tape is wrapped around a pipe's thread three times before it is screwed into place. It is commonly used commercially in applications including pressurized water systems, central heating systems, and air compression equipment.


This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2016/01/19 23:27:47


 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

To be fair, it was a vinyl layer that told me 5 times

I generally put as much on there that will still let it go in - if it is too much, you won't get the thread in there. Like thinning paints, it is completely dependent on your application.
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






One of those things i remember about compressors is to always make sure to purge the tank after you are done using it.

pressurized air can cause condensation inside the tank which can cause rust. which is bad.

so usually tanks will have release valves. usually on the bottom.

i believe the red thing is for that.


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

So with this tank purging, is just opening out the moisture trap enough? That is what I usually do.
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






IIRC yeah should be fine so long as there is no pressure inside.

(usually what i do anyway )

i remember in those hyperbaric chambers for diving the moisture will condense in front of your face as pressures change.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






kb_lock wrote:
So with this tank purging, is just opening out the moisture trap enough? That is what I usually do.


What do you mean by moisture trap? At the bottom of the actual moisture filter, there's a little metal nipple. If you push it in from the edges (don't cover the center), the air in the tank and any water in that's been accumulated will come out. At the bottom of the tank, there's a little screw-type thing with an O-Ring. You need to unscrew that to allow any accumulated water to run out. Gravity will do the job, but to give it a little help, what I do is unscrew the bolt with 30psi left. That way, the air helps force any water out.

If you don't, I guarantee that your tank will accumulate rust in it, and when you do open the tank screw one day, lots of rusty water will come dribbling out. I've seen it before... pretty gross stuff

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/01/20 01:13:33


 
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

 Talys wrote:
I'm sorry, but you're not entirely correct. Yes, PTFE tape is a lubricant, and this function is important. But PTFE tape / thread seal tape / Teflon tape / plumber's tape is also a deformable filler that seals the joints.
No, actually I am not incorrect.

I think I've explained this to you in the past, but I work with pipes for a living. I've designed, installed, and maintained all manner of piping systems (refrigerant, steam, chemical, water, air, etc) for fifteen years. I went to school to learn how to do it. I was also an instructor for over five years (which came with more schooling). You can quote Wikipedia all you like, but you're still wrong.
You are absolutely correct that it won't stop leaks on loose or damaged joints. But it does fill in the gap between the joints, as common joints like NPT male/female connectors you see on airbrush and compressor parts aren't machined anywhere near perfectly enough to prevent liquids and gases from escaping through the little gaps in the thread.
No, it really doesn't.
I kind of wrap it around randomly A plumber once told me "a couple of times".
That's good for you, but twice maybe three times is more than enough.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/01/20 03:55:58


 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






@ScootyPuffJunior - you should do us all a favor and correct the Wikipedia entry on the subject then

Also, let Home Depot know, since they say, "Use to seal threaded joints on metal or plastic pipe fittings" and "Helps prevent leaks"

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-520-in-Thread-Seal-Tape-31273/202206819

3M too, please, since they say for their PTFE tape, "Use Scotch® Thread Sealant and Lubricant Tape 48 to form a leak proof seal and help prevent cross threading on pipe threads." -- and "This is 3 mil high-temperature-stable (PTFE) pipe thread sealant and lubricant that provides a leak-proof seal with a temperature rated to 500(deg)F (260(deg)C)."

http://3mcollision.com/scotch-48-thread-sealant-tape-06195.html

I am not disagreeing with you that 2-3 times wrapped is ideal. It's what I do; I just don't count, because I've fixed a lot of pipes/fittings doing home stuff. I'm sure it comes out to about that



This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2016/01/20 06:04:59


 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

I, quite clearly, know bugger all about this, but I've used plumber's tape specifically to stop a leaking tap, which it did - while I'm sure it was probably the wrong way, and I'm happy to be corrected in my understanding, how did that work in light of the apparent fact that Teflon tape doesn't stop leaks.

This is a legitimate question, I'm not trying to bait anyone here. I'm buggered as to why you'd want to use plumber's tape other than to stop leaks.
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
kb_lock wrote:
That link doesn't specify it, but 5 times around with plumber's tape (pulled taut) is what i was taught.
Five times is way too much. Twice is all you need.

I can't stress this enough because it comes up all the time, but PFTE tape does not seal a tapered thread joint. It is meant to work as a lubricant for the threaded joint to help the male threads get deep enough into the female threads for a proper seal. You can't apply tape to loose or damaged joint and expect it to stop a leak.
Is that why some of my older friends use beeswax blocks instead of PTFE on their airbrush gear?
It being a lubricant more than a seal, I mean.


[ Mordian 183rd ] - an ongoing Imperial Guard story with crayon drawings!
[ "I can't believe it's not Dakka!" ] - a buttery painting and crafting blog
 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut





I think PTFE tape being a sealant is a common misconception. The idea is that it has a very low friction coefficient so you can get joins much tighter than would normally be possible (often deforming metal pipes), and that creates the seal. I wouldn't be as knowledgeable about it as ScootyPuffJunior, but when I have used it I always try to use as little as possible, otherwise you're actively preventing the joint from closing as tightly and creating a good seal. Of course, I suppose anything will create some sort of seal if you jam it in hard enough, but it might not be as effective as a tightly compressed metal join.

I've never actually had cause to use it on my airbrushes. They all have o-rings, and you can buy replacements on ebay for pocket change so I never saw any need.

This message was edited 5 times. Last update was at 2016/01/20 06:23:22


 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

Smacks, PTFE sometimes comes into play if you are using the older, shorter thread hoses and brushes with modern equipment.
For example, I use a 1970s Aerograph, and that thing pisses air like a steam kettle if I don't tape both ends of the hose.
Modern gear, I've not needed it.


[ Mordian 183rd ] - an ongoing Imperial Guard story with crayon drawings!
[ "I can't believe it's not Dakka!" ] - a buttery painting and crafting blog
 
   
Made in au
Incorporating Wet-Blending




Sydney

Riiight, so basically, it isn't that the plumber's tape has filled a leak, it's enabled the thread to fit better and.. therefore... stop the leak
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka






kb_lock wrote:
Riiight, so basically, it isn't that the plumber's tape has filled a leak, it's enabled the thread to fit better and.. therefore... stop the leak


LOL. Yeah, something like that?

But seriously. Semantics aside. If you don't use PTFE tape and you take a cheap male and female brass, zinc, or copper joint and screw them into each other, 99.9% of the time you'll get a leak (liquid or gas escapes). Add an O-Ring or washer, if appropriate, and no more leak. Or wrap the male joint with PTFE tape, screw it in, and no more leak.

Call it a seal or whatever you want (evidently, the people who make the stuff call it thread seal tape, so they like the word, but anyways). It's not ONLY lubrication, because you're not just making the two threads slide into each other more easily; without PTFE tape (or something else that fills the imperfections in the way the threads mate) gas or liquid will escape no matter how tightly or loosely you screw those two joints together.

I don't think we really have to get hung up on how it works; it can be voodoo magic for all I care. I just know that when fixing compressor leaks, mostly because I've manhandled them or they were cheap and came from the vendor leaky, PTFE tape... good thing.
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

Talys wrote:@ScootyPuffJunior - you should do us all a favor and correct the Wikipedia entry on the subject then
I don't edit Wikipedia.
Also, let Home Depot know, since they say, "Use to seal threaded joints on metal or plastic pipe fittings" and "Helps prevent leaks"

http://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-520-in-Thread-Seal-Tape-31273/202206819
The fact that you quote Home Depot, a retailer, proves how much you don't know about what you're talking about.

3M too, please, since they say for their PTFE tape, "Use Scotch® Thread Sealant and Lubricant Tape 48 to form a leak proof seal and help prevent cross threading on pipe threads." -- and "This is 3 mil high-temperature-stable (PTFE) pipe thread sealant and lubricant that provides a leak-proof seal with a temperature rated to 500(deg)F (260(deg)C)."

http://3mcollision.com/scotch-48-thread-sealant-tape-06195.html
You mean the company selling you a product is going to tell you how wonderful it works even if it isn't true? Also, cross threading pipes is still easy even with PFTE tape, so that claim is bull gak, too.

I am not disagreeing with you that 2-3 times wrapped is ideal. It's what I do; I just don't count, because I've fixed a lot of pipes/fittings doing home stuff. I'm sure it comes out to about that
No offense, dude, but you were a software engineer and I'm a trained and licensed steamfitter.
Talys wrote:
kb_lock wrote:
Riiight, so basically, it isn't that the plumber's tape has filled a leak, it's enabled the thread to fit better and.. therefore... stop the leak

LOL. Yeah, something like that?
Yeah, because it ensures the tapered threads seat properly.
But seriously. Semantics aside. If you don't use PTFE tape and you take a cheap male and female brass, zinc, or copper joint and screw them into each other, 99.9% of the time you'll get a leak (liquid or gas escapes). Add an O-Ring or washer, if appropriate, and no more leak. Or wrap the male joint with PTFE tape, screw it in, and no more leak.
Sorry, none of what you wrote is remotely true, especially when it comes to adding an o-ring on a tapered threaded joint. Never do that, like ever. O-rings and gaskets are only for sealing straight threaded joints and no pipe dope or PFTE tape is needed.
Call it a seal or whatever you want (evidently, the people who make the stuff call it thread seal tape, so they like the word, but anyways). It's not ONLY lubrication, because you're not just making the two threads slide into each other more easily; without PTFE tape (or something else that fills the imperfections in the way the threads mate) gas or liquid will escape no matter how tightly or loosely you screw those two joints together.
They call it 'thread seal tape' because using it helps seal the threaded joint... by allowing the tapered threads to mechanically seal by fully seating.
I don't think we really have to get hung up on how it works; it can be voodoo magic for all I care. I just know that when fixing compressor leaks, mostly because I've manhandled them or they were cheap and came from the vendor leaky, PTFE tape... good thing.
If you don't think we should get hunk up on how it works, then do everyone a favor and stop spreading misconceptions and then arguing with someone who knows more about than you do.

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in us
Trigger-Happy Baal Predator Pilot





Sparta, Ohio

Just weld them together, a proper welded joint will never leak. Do not use JB Weld either, go buy a welder that you can use 7018 rod (I prefer Lincoln Excalibur on all the bridges the I weld for the state) or you can buy a Millermatic 200. This is great for MIG welding. But if you are really in a bind you can use a suitcase welder set up for FCAW, no need for gas with that one but it will spatter like CRAZY.

Or just go ahead and use thread tape like 99.99 percent of all other people because it seals the threads (because it provides a tighter mechanical seal by getting the threads tighter, or by filling in the deformities of the threads .... does it really matter if it is SEALED?!?)

Now, we like big books. (And we cannot lie. You other readers can’t deny, a book flops open with an itty-bitty font, and a map that’s in your face, you get—sorry! Sorry!)  
   
Made in us
Colonel





This Is Where the Fish Lives

 OIIIIIIO wrote:
Just weld them together, a proper welded joint will never leak. Do not use JB Weld either, go buy a welder that you can use 7018 rod (I prefer Lincoln Excalibur on all the bridges the I weld for the state) or you can buy a Millermatic 200. This is great for MIG welding. But if you are really in a bind you can use a suitcase welder set up for FCAW, no need for gas with that one but it will spatter like CRAZY.

You can't weld brass with 7018 rod. GTAW is probably the best way, but it's possible to MIG it if you have tri-mix and the right wire. Really though, the best way to join it is probably soldering.

Or just go ahead and use thread tape like 99.99 percent of all other people because it seals the threads (because it provides a tighter mechanical seal by getting the threads tighter, or by filling in the deformities of the threads .... does it really matter if it is SEALED?!?)

It does matter. What he's doing is continuing to spread a misconception, which is something I'm trying to prevent because it helps everyone.

 d-usa wrote:
"When the Internet sends its people, they're not sending their best. They're not sending you. They're not sending you. They're sending posters that have lots of problems, and they're bringing those problems with us. They're bringing strawmen. They're bringing spam. They're trolls. And some, I assume, are good people."
 
   
Made in us
Pestilent Plague Marine with Blight Grenade





Chicago

 ScootyPuffJunior wrote:
 Talys wrote:
I'm sorry, but you're not entirely correct. Yes, PTFE tape is a lubricant, and this function is important. But PTFE tape / thread seal tape / Teflon tape / plumber's tape is also a deformable filler that seals the joints.
No, actually I am not incorrect.

I think I've explained this to you in the past, but I work with pipes for a living. I've designed, installed, and maintained all manner of piping systems (refrigerant, steam, chemical, water, air, etc) for fifteen years. I went to school to learn how to do it. I was also an instructor for over five years (which came with more schooling). You can quote Wikipedia all you like, but you're still wrong.
You are absolutely correct that it won't stop leaks on loose or damaged joints. But it does fill in the gap between the joints, as common joints like NPT male/female connectors you see on airbrush and compressor parts aren't machined anywhere near perfectly enough to prevent liquids and gases from escaping through the little gaps in the thread.
No, it really doesn't.
I kind of wrap it around randomly A plumber once told me "a couple of times".
That's good for you, but twice maybe three times is more than enough.



Taken from wikipedia:
Thread seal tape lubricates allowing for a deeper seating of the threads, and it helps prevent the threads from seizing when being unscrewed.[2] The tape also works as a deformable filler and thread lubricant, helping to seal the joint without hardening or making it more difficult to tighten,[3] and instead making it easier to tighten.[2]

 
   
 
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