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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/18 06:17:58
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Bounding Assault Marine
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Hey everyone, I am a 40k marine player and a very novice painter and that's ok with me cause I'm not aspiring to be anything great with my painting. But I do want to have a decent looking model that doesn't look like absolutely like a turd. I haven't taken painting models very seriously and the 40k hobby has been at the bottom of priorities over the last couple years so I am an entry level painter. I have a couple of questions about my approach and tools that I am looking for some guidance to.
1. I am looking to paint my marines with GW colors because of the simple system I've been told that is played out and I think it will be the easiest way to get a completely painted army. I am not completely familiar with the gw system so what is it? I plan to have base coat black marines with silver (leadbealcher) legs hands aquilas etc and red shoulder pads. I like my models to be more matte and dark as opposed to glossy and shiny.
2. What would you suggest for primer? I know gw primer is expensive and I'm willing to look for a substitute.
3. Since my army will be base black can I use one of gw color sprays (chaos black I think it is called) to base coat my army or is that a primer? I don't have access to an air brush and don't plan to and I was thinking this will be a suitable alternative.
4. What brushes should I use? I have looked at the gw brush set (the $50 one) and I am willing to get that unless you all have other recommendations.
5. How do I take care of brushes? What is a good way to clean and store my brushes to let me keep them for awhile.
6. Do you know any good video tutorials that are easily accessible?
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/18 07:22:20
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Fixture of Dakka
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You should go to YouTube and check out WarhammerTV (just search that). They are GW video tutorials, mostly by Duncan Rhodes, and run the gamut from beginner to intermediate. He explains things really well, and the videos are of a much higher production quality than most of the stuff you see on the Internet.
To answer some of your questions:
1. The GW system can essentially be summarized as "start dark, layer up lighter colors". The essence of it is to start with a basecoat, darken your recesses and create depth using a shade, and then create contrast using progressively lighter colors (by layering, highlighting, drybrushing, etc.). GW makes series of paints that they give suggestions for looking nice together (often, they're similar hues), though there are an infinite number of combinations that also look nice together that don't follow their starter chart.
2. P3 is a good substitute for GW's black primer. It's an interchangeable product, but cheaper (and you get more). GW's Corax White primer is a really good off-white primer.
3. You can just prime and call it a day for black. The glossiness may be different from other paints; but if this occurs, varnishing will make it all equally matte, satin, or glossy.
4. SOME of the GW brushes are excellent (if you search, you should find a really extensive review I did of every single brush in GW's current lineup). Others, not as much. Essentially, the drybrushes are the best (pretty much the only) of the sort, the artificer layer is a very nice brush but not a beginner tool, the wash and shade brushes are above average. The medium layer brush and all the angled brushes are good brushes, but they have a limited life (they kink).
All of the round layer brushes (excluding Artificer) are essentially above-average quality synthetic brushes that are relatively expensive. That is, they work just fine, but they're a little pricey, and **like every other synthetic brush** kinks up after a little use, rendering them of very limited use to people who like a nice point on their brush (ie most painters).
On the other hand, if you're just learning, what the heck. Don't go buy $20 paint brushes, because you're probably going to destroy a few anyhow. Do learn to care for your brushes and clean them out really, really well before you invest in top-notch brushes, because a $20 Kolinksy Sable Brush that has a gunked up ferule and with bristles that are filled with paint works way worse than a new $2 dollar store brush.
5. Did I mention cleaning brushes was important  My favorite cleaner is Winsor Newton brush cleaner & restorer. This is because it's a liquid, and can get further up the ferule than a bar soap, but to each their own. My technique is to decant a little bit of be brush cleaner into a small pot (with a lid). I roll the brush against the side of the pot, and all the paint basically falls down onto the bottom of the pot.
Masters brush cleaner is an excellent product as well. I prefer it more for larger, flat brushes than the rounds, though.
6. Yes, WarhammerTV on YouTube. There are TONS of tutorials for space marines of different chapters and various vehicles.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/19 18:53:22
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Dakka Veteran
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2. Vallejo polyurethane primer. It is hands down the BEST. Primer on the market. Dries super smooth and you can paint it on if you dont have an airbrush.
Dont bother with spray cans!
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/19 19:10:12
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Longtime Dakkanaut
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I use GW black primer works perfectly.
Stick to GW paint best on the market and love it.
I use dollar store brushes. Cheap and if they break well a tooth pick.
I dip mine into water swish them around and chuck them into a old mug that broke.
I do not loke youtube videos becauae seeing someone paint doesnt give you skills working hard does, just pratice. Plus they waste alot of paint in those videos.
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I need to go to work every day.
Millions of people on welfare depend on me. |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/19 19:22:31
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Never Forget Isstvan!
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I would personally paint black over black primer if you are going with a black army (I own and paint two myself). Also I would suggest an off black as it gives you more depth and makes it seem realistc. I have been using the forgeworld corvus black airbrush paint and have been just brushing it on and it's been working perfectly
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/19 20:23:49
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Regular Dakkanaut
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OgreChubbs wrote:I use GW black primer works perfectly.
Stick to GW paint best on the market and love it.
I use dollar store brushes. Cheap and if they break well a tooth pick.
I dip mine into water swish them around and chuck them into a old mug that broke.
I do not loke youtube videos becauae seeing someone paint doesnt give you skills working hard does, just pratice. Plus they waste alot of paint in those videos.
this is basically the worst advice on every level a human could give advice on pertaining to the painting hobby. I wouldn't even say anything except its harmfull for growth
- GW paints are good but so are other paints... I pref some gw colors but hate others.
- dollar store brushes are terrible brushes that wont hold a point and prob have other issues
- as a painter who was once starting off without these videos, I cannot recommend them enough. They are AMAZING videos hands down the BEST teaching videos on the net. Is it perfect? no but you can easily extrapolate anything that isn't directly covered in the videos. If i had those when i started I would have been a much better painter faster.
- "they waste a lot of paint" my god lol good painters just use paint and I don't think anyone thinks "best be careful to the amount I use". You pull enough paint out so the color is what you want and if you use more oh well.
Ok so solutions to these problems
- Gw paints are very good. You as a new painter should stick to purely GW paints just because you can match exactly what they are doing for what you want. KISS keep it simple stupid. Gw paints cover well but the yellows are weak so if you want, feel free to try some P3 or Vallejo if needed here. Stay with the GW chaos black if you want but know that from what I have read, they are not primers. The tamiya primer I use for example bonds to the plastic where the GW sprays do not. They are also thick and lack other properties of primer such as drying with very subtle ridges (that you cant see) which creates more surface area for paint to grip. Now unless somethings changed since I last researched It's possible I'm wrong but some simple google searching could yield more up to date info (i'm pretty confident tho as GW also states the paints are a direct port over)
- The new GW brushes are poo. Reaper make pretty good ones at a reasonable price and then if you care enough ( imo you should its worth the investment) Try rosmary & co, winsor and newton series 7 and the other popular one is Raphaël Kolinsky seres 8404. They are all around the same price and if you can't get the last 3 go for the reaper ones imo. Have personally used most of these and they are all good.
- People will recommend videos like painting budah and what not. Honestly ignore these. They are good buy they require a level of understanding and skill before going into them. Personally I feel they don't do a good enough job explaining the WAY they do things but yeh GW videos are THE BEST for new painters. So so so good. Very articulate and mostly does a good enough job showing AND talking about what they are doing
- Something not covered in the GW videos is a wet pallet. This will help you thin your paints which is the MOST IMPORTANT THING as a new painter. People say 50/50 paint water or 40/60 but dif paints need dif levels of dilution. You need to find a nice medium and a wet pallet will help as well as solve the problem of "wasted paint". You can buy one at dickblick or make one (youtube this its very easy and VERY important)
- assuming you listen to every decent painter on earth and avoid buying GW brushes, the masters brush soap and pink soap are great ways to keep a point and clean brushes
the painting method gw sells is rather simple
--- base (your chaos black spray will be this)
--- Wash/Shade (since you are painting black no need to do this)
--- Re-Base (since we didnt wash/are painting black again this step isnt needed)
--- edge highlight (duncan covers this but thinning paint and a good brush is KEY to these)
--- further edge highlights (this is generally a smaller line on top of the edge highlight at the brightest areas and prob isnt that important as a new painter to make a model look good on a tabletop)
as a side note. this hobby is expensive. I see people often say "whats the cheapest paint/tools etc etc". Imo this is a flawed stance. If you are gonna invest hours upon hours on something and spend the coin you spend to buy and then build them, you need to get the stuff that will give you the best result. If it means you have to wait to buy it, so be it. Don't do what I see people on reddit do and buy some random spray because someone says "i do it and its just fine". That guys stuff looks like poo, he doesnt care, and hes for some giving advice.
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This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2016/03/19 20:33:01
My trader feedback on other websites
http://www.overclock.net/u/193949/eosgreen
http://www.ebay.com/usr/questionmarks
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/19 20:37:09
Subject: Re:Questions from a novice painter
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Longtime Dakkanaut
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Saying I am a crappy painter huh? Lol I wouldnt listen to him mate people can pull of amazing work with any thing they get their hands on if they got the talent. Talent is earned threw work not bought.
Stay cheap stay smart and pratice. Also find what works for you.
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I need to go to work every day.
Millions of people on welfare depend on me. |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/19 20:59:24
Subject: Re:Questions from a novice painter
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Regular Dakkanaut
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OgreChubbs wrote:Saying I am a crappy painter huh? Lol I wouldnt listen to him mate people can pull of amazing work with any thing they get their hands on if they got the talent. Talent is earned threw work not bought.
Stay cheap stay smart and pratice. Also find what works for you.
i said you are giving bad advice not that you are a bad painter but based off your advice of only using one line of paint and using crappy brushes I would lean towards that being the case. I also only mentioned it because I found your "advice" to be harmful to someones growth and very close minded.
I would also like to know how you can maintain a point on a crappy synthetic brush with "talent" alone. Also I'm fairly sure its "cheaper" to take care of good brushes than constantly buy crappy ones
Am I a crystal brush winner? no. Am I better than most (and maybe a little elitist)? yes and my advice is very valid.
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My trader feedback on other websites
http://www.overclock.net/u/193949/eosgreen
http://www.ebay.com/usr/questionmarks
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/19 21:22:51
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Dakka Veteran
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1. I am looking to paint my marines with GW colors because of the simple system I've been told that is played out and I think it will be the easiest way to get a completely painted army. I am not completely familiar with the gw system so what is it? I plan to have base coat black marines with silver (leadbealcher) legs hands aquilas etc and red shoulder pads. I like my models to be more matte and dark as opposed to glossy and shiny.
- As a beginner, I would use GW paints as they come in the colors suggested for the different armies. The most important thing to learn is not which paint you like best (yet) but how to properly thin them down (with water) to achieve a nice consistent finish. Your paint preference will come with time.
2. What would you suggest for primer? I know gw primer is expensive and I'm willing to look for a substitute.
- Krylon Primers. Cheap, easy to get and very good.
3. Since my army will be base black can I use one of gw color sprays (chaos black I think it is called) to base coat my army or is that a primer? I don't have access to an air brush and don't plan to and I was thinking this will be a suitable alternative.
- You can certainly do this, but I've heard mixed reviews with the GW Base colors in spray cans. I've heard they are not great as they come out gloppy and inconsistent.
4. What brushes should I use? I have looked at the gw brush set (the $50 one) and I am willing to get that unless you all have other recommendations.
- I have not been happy with the GW brushes. I got some decent ones of all sizes from the local art supply shop (Michael's) costing $3-$5 each. I also got very good Kolinsky Sable brushes sizes 0, 00, and 000 for finer detail and they are wonderful $15 each, though.
5. How do I take care of brushes? What is a good way to clean and store my brushes to let me keep them for awhile.
- You need to get a small container of Master's Brush Cleaner. It is AMAZING and will thoroughly clean your brushes between uses. Furthermore, for the Kolinsky Sable hairs on some better brushes, since they are natural fiber brushes, the hairs need to be conditioned and the Master's stuff does that very nicely. Link below.
http://www.dickblick.com/products/the-masters-brush-cleaner-and-preserver/
6. Do you know any good video tutorials that are easily accessible?
- As mentioned, go to YouTube and watch the vids on WarhammerTV. I also watch The Apathetic Fish's channel which is awesome, and also there is a user here, SDub, who made an amazing set of vids aimed at the newbie. Great stuff!
Automatically Appended Next Post:
OgreChubbs wrote:
I do not loke youtube videos becauae seeing someone paint doesnt give you skills working hard does, just pratice. Plus they waste alot of paint in those videos.
I've learned to paint exclusively watching YouTube vids and have been very happy with my progress.
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This message was edited 6 times. Last update was at 2016/03/19 21:31:40
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/20 00:36:37
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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[MOD]
Not as Good as a Minion
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Remember rule 1 applies all over the forum, even to the painting and modelling sections. Thanks
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I wish I had time for all the game systems I own, let alone want to own... |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/20 01:35:42
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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[DCM]
Sentient OverBear
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motyak wrote:Remember rule 1 applies all over the forum, ESPECIALLY to the painting and modelling sections. Thanks
We have strict standards here, folks. Be NICE.
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DQ:70S++G+++M+B++I+Pw40k94+ID+++A++/sWD178R+++T(I)DM+++
Trust me, no matter what damage they have the potential to do, single-shot weapons always flatter to deceive in 40k. Rule #1 - BBAP
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/20 08:01:38
Subject: Re:Questions from a novice painter
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Dakka Veteran
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Please try the vallejo polyurethane primer. I am not a brand snob, i just use what works. With cans you will have ups and downs. The vallejo primer can be brush painted on and will always dry super smooth (especially the black.) It really is amazing.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/20 17:33:53
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Longtime Dakkanaut
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I will stand by what I said I only use dollar store paint brushes and GW black white primer spray can.
Find what works for you tho.
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I need to go to work every day.
Millions of people on welfare depend on me. |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/20 17:49:33
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Thane of Dol Guldur
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start off with GW stuff. you'll soon find yourself buying different brands if you need to once you figure out your techniques. i often buy vallejo paints because the dropper bottle is more practical. the best thing that i learned when painting is colour theory. read about this..read lots about it. im not going to go into it because its a subject with a lot of depth, but it will help you massively if you know how colours work, and how light works. another thing to do is look at everyday objects. how does light fall on certain colours/textures etc. this will help when it comes to highlighting. most importantly, have fun. take your time on your pieces. the end result will be satisfying that way
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/03/20 17:49:55
Heresy World Eaters/Emperors Children
Instagram: nagrakali_love_songs |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/21 07:30:52
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Fixture of Dakka
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eosgreen wrote: - assuming you listen to every decent painter on earth and avoid buying GW brushes, the masters brush soap and pink soap are great ways to keep a point and clean brushes Not to get into a war of brushes, but GW brushes aren't really that awful. Yeah, the synthetic round brushes aren't the best brushes in the universe, mostly because they kink after relatively little use, and yeah, for the round brushes I really like W&N S7. But DiRTWaL identified himself as a novice painter. In this case, often, wonderful Series 7 or 8404 brushes just end up not cleaned properly, because for most people, let's face it: cleaning brushes such that they'll last for years is a discipline that is acquired, and mostly due to a desire not to keep buying brushes. The drybrushes are really good (if you know of better, please share!). The artificer layer brush is highly competent. And the angled, flat, shade, and wash brushes are all reasonable if you can get a good discount. I would also like to point out that except for the primer and red base coat, this entire model, including the large white numbers the dude on the door, and all the weathering, is painted using the new GW brushes and GW paints. The only non- GW paintbrush tools I used for painting were masking tape and q-tips (well, nail tees):
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This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/03/21 07:31:36
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/22 00:35:43
Subject: Re:Questions from a novice painter
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Crafty Bray Shaman
Anor Londo
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Pancakey wrote:Please try the vallejo polyurethane primer. I am not a brand snob, i just use what works. With cans you will have ups and downs. The vallejo primer can be brush painted on and will always dry super smooth (especially the black.) It really is amazing.
Please stop trying to promote Vallejo primer. It is well known that it does not adhere to figures properly and will chip off with the slightest touch, even on plastic figures.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/22 00:42:52
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Incorporating Wet-Blending
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Different experiences do not invalidate each other. Vallejo black PU primer works fine for me, the white one not so much.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/22 01:21:11
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Ferocious Blood Claw
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Tried Vallejo Grey primer (brushing on) after guy at a local store praised it into the sky.
I don't know if I'm doing something wrong, but that stuff is so thin and runny that it will clog up every recess and crevice there is on a mini, before giving a uniform cover.
Then went on to try Tamiya Fine White Surface primer spray and liked it. Needs a bit of testing to find out the right spraying distance and technique but I find it very useful and quite simple.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/22 15:43:38
Subject: Questions from a novice painter
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Fixture of Dakka
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kb_lock wrote:Different experiences do not invalidate each other. Vallejo black PU primer works fine for me, the white one not so much.
Yeah, I'm 100% with you here. The white and grey are pretty hard to use. But then again, a lot of rattle can white primer is not very easy to use either. I have the most success with Vallejo white primer by applying 2-3 thin coats, and then airbrushing white paint over top of it.
On the other hand, Vallejo Black, German Dark Red, Desert Tan, Ultramarine Blue, Red, Chainmail, and the dark green (forget the name) are wonderful primers that I use regularly. The Vallejo glossy black primer is also a wonderful primer to put underneath their metallic airbrush paint. They are not as bulletproof as some spray paints, but for my purposes (showcase and gaming miniatures), I find that they're plenty tough.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2016/03/22 19:47:48
Subject: Re:Questions from a novice painter
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Dakka Veteran
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Undead_Love-Machine wrote:Pancakey wrote:Please try the vallejo polyurethane primer. I am not a brand snob, i just use what works. With cans you will have ups and downs. The vallejo primer can be brush painted on and will always dry super smooth (especially the black.) It really is amazing.
Please stop trying to promote Vallejo primer. It is well known that it does not adhere to figures properly and will chip off with the slightest touch, even on plastic figures.
Well, it's what I have been using for some years and I have great results!
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