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Hiya guys, long story short, I've never had any issues painting resin models, they all go nice and smooth.

However, currently I'm painting a thanatar and I'm having issues with the paint rubbing on the high edges.
This is due to being a large model and me having to handle it while painting.

Would it be possible to spray on a layer of matte varnish to seal the layers as I go?
Got it close to complete, but before I paint final indepth detail I wanted to protect the layers I have done.

Would this work or would I be creating issues for myself please?


Thanks in advance as always guys and gals.

Using weathering powders requires multiple layers of matt varnish; weathering and washing with oil is best done over a satin or gloss layer. Decals work best when you gloss varnish, apply, then matt varnish to protect them... before weathering.

So yes, I've done it and the model has survived without swamping the detail - gloss varnish just makes it look that way until you get a layer of matt over it. If you plan on multiple layers I'd maybe go for spray rather than brush. You honestly won't see the difference.

And for toughness I'd use gloss then matt.

Between every layer? Not sure. Make sure the paint is very dry... varnish can change the colour of thin layers, and it has in the past washed/blended out some fine highlighting e.g. drybrushed dirt on my models. Let us know how it goes!

I always apply layers of varnish during the painting process as a way to save my work from future damage. Gloss, satin, and matte all work very well depending upon what you need to accomplish. Acrylic varnishes can also be thinned with water or airbrush thinner and applied via airbrush or hairy stick. A couple of thin coats if always best. If the model will be handled gently, you can paint over the varnish as soon as it's dry. If there will be moderate to heavy abuse to the varnish (handling, masking, etc.) it's best to wait 1-3 days for a full cure depending on the varnish used. Some varnishes can cause a frosting effect on metallic paints, so it's not a bad idea to cover those areas (or the whole model) with a very thin coat of matte medium first. It will save you a lot of frustration later.

Also be sure to use the right type of varnish. For basic hobby painting (i.e. using acrylics) then pretty much anything will work fine. If you'll be using solvents like oil washes or liquid masks, be sure to use an acrylic varnish or you'll dissolve the underlying varnish. Dullcote or Glosscote should not be used with oils for this reason. Oils should also be sealed with an acrylic varnish after being given ample time to dry.

Matte varnish is great for general protection (your specific issue), weathering powders, and between paint layers as you can rub off mistakes with a cotton bud without damaging the underlying coat (or just paint over mistakes with the base color). You can also paint/prime over matte varnish with no problems.

Gloss varnish is good for applying decals and for masking (tape, frisket, or liquid mask) because the smooth surface doesn't trap air and allows masks to peel off easily. It has no tooth, so its no good for weathering powders, but it's critical for use with oil or enamel pin washes to get good flow around details.

Satin varnish is primarily used for oil/enamel filters which are extremely thin coats of color that allow you to subtly change the underlying base coat. Filters are almost never used by wargamers except in competition to create subtle nuances of color. They are, however, a staple for scale modelers.



A little long-winded, but I hope it helps

Cheers guys.
Long story short, I've based all the colours, washed, added highlights etc.

However, I've been having issues with the paint rubbing.
So I wanted to seal the layers I've done before I move onto fine detail, edge highlights and OSL.

Hoping a light layer of varnish holds the colour so I can do this without ruining the model.


Once I'm done I always gloss coat then matte the model as a finish.





Edit: once I'm done I'll throw some pictures up here.

I have had a previous issue of varnish changing the tone slightly on my salamanders, letting a slight green tint show through the black.
However, I rushed and didn't allow anything to dry as long as I should.
I generally leave paint and varnish 48 hours to dry between working on it.

A light layer of matte varnish should work fine. Just make sure you read the fine print on the bottle that indicates the cure time. Don't handle the model until it's fully cured or the issue may resurface.

Also, finishing the model in gloss and then matte is not a bad idea. The areas that are rubbing due to handling while painting will also show wear in the future if used for gaming. If you notice the high points are getting glossy, then it's time to add another coat of matte.

I always use army painter varnish as I have never had an issue with it, always great quality and never a bad can.

As I say, I usually always give it 48 hour cure time which is more than suggested just to be safe.

I've found a final gloss coat then a matte makes it solid and never wears through use.

Also makes dusting them easier :p

I varnish throughout the painting process, it's my "quicksave" - worst case I need to get a colour off and am not quick enough to water it away, I can use isopropyl and get it off without damaging the under layers.

Tricks like this have made a tremendous difference to my painting, as I can recover from errors much easier

Yeah I occasionally varnish between layers to strengthen things. Recently I've tried to reduce the amount of varnish layers though, because it can start to clog details.

When the varnish layer is your final coat, you can't really tell that it's softened details because, well, it's clear You can tell if you put HEAPS too much on obviously, but for the most part it's not too bad. But when you put another layer of paint on top it can start to stand out. It's not a big deal, I first really noticed it on a model aircraft I was painting, one wing got a few extra coats of varnish due to a mistake I made and when the model was finished it stood out that the rivet detail wasn't as pronounced on that wing

In general when spraying varnish between layers, gloss is tougher but the next paint layer will stick better to matte. So if you want to use it as a "save point" like kb mentioned, gloss is better, but if you want the next layer to stick as best it can, matte is actually better.

SATIN, the glossiest matte there is!