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Just been on Ebay and found an advert for this stuff.Anybody have any experience of it?
http://www.vms-supplies.com/clean-slate-remover

I'd love to know what's in it.

They don't seem to want to say.
I'd like it if they at least declared what the active ingredient is.

Otherwise, it's just a homeopathic paint stripper.

 chromedog wrote:
Otherwise, it's just a homeopathic paint stripper.

Well, I am an Ork player...

I'd like to see a review or something.

 chromedog wrote:
I'd love to know what's in it.

They don't seem to want to say.
I'd like it if they at least declared what the active ingredient is.

Otherwise, it's just a homeopathic paint stripper.

I agree, first thing I went looking for was an MSDS.

I emailed them asking for one (MSDS).
Even distilled water has one.

If it works and it's less toxic than Castrol Superclean I don't care what the MSDS says.

Superclean is good for you. I bathe in the stuff.

They dont have an ordering method/prices...?

 Gunzhard wrote:
If it works and it's less toxic than Castrol Superclean I don't care what the MSDS says.

The MSDS is just so I know what's IN it.

I don't care whether it'll strip flesh from bone, or just cure dehydration. I want the active ingredient listed.

They don't want to share any details of it.

I see no prices at all.

Oh man what sort of black magic is this.

 chromedog wrote:

 Gunzhard wrote:
If it works and it's less toxic than Castrol Superclean I don't care what the MSDS says.

The MSDS is just so I know what's IN it.

I don't care whether it'll strip flesh from bone, or just cure dehydration. I want the active ingredient listed.

They don't want to share any details of it.

I know exactly what an MSDS is ...I work for a Hazmat company haha - I just mean - I don't need to know what the active ingredients in Vallejo paints are - they just work.

So err, if you don't care what the MSDS says, who exactly are you trusting to tell you it's less toxic than Super Clean?

I started to use 91% rubbing alcohol, get like 4-5 quarts and a used ice cream container with a lid, some plastic bags and poke a lot of small holes in it, put some minis in the bags for like 10 minutes, scrub away instantly, only problem I found is with resin, it makes them rubbery, good for broken resin as you can glue them together without them breaking.

 Big Mac wrote:
I started to use 91% rubbing alcohol, get like 4-5 quarts and a used ice cream container with a lid, some plastic bags and poke a lot of small holes in it, put some minis in the bags for like 10 minutes, scrub away instantly, only problem I found is with resin, it makes them rubbery, good for broken resin as you can glue them together without them breaking.

Maybe it depends on the type of resin, I found resin with alcohol initially goes rubbery but over time ends up more brittle. And it softens the details as well.

 Gunzhard wrote:


I know exactly what an MSDS is ...I work for a Hazmat company haha - I just mean - I don't need to know what the active ingredients in Vallejo paints are - they just work.

Yeah, I used to work in the DG section of our local government stores (we supplied the schools, hospitals, prisons, nursing homes, etc with everything from condoms to bodybags, chem supplies, corrosives, etc) - that's how I know that even distilled water has one.


I asked them for an msds - they responded with a "it's safe to transport, it doesn't need one." and still wouldn't supply one.
Pretty much all the chem companies here will supply an msds when ASKED for one.

 chromedog wrote:

I asked them for an msds - they responded with a "it's safe to transport, it doesn't need one." and still wouldn't supply one.
Pretty much all the chem companies here will supply an msds when ASKED for one.

That is such a rubbish excuse, plutonium is safe to transport if you do it correctly....

They have come up with some mix of probably isopropyl alcohol and a few other things, and don't want to give it away because they'd lose money.

If they ship to the States or the EU, they are required to supply MSDS upon request.

They said they would supply one with the goods - but in order to get the msds, I will first have to order a quantity - and in order to work out whether I want to order it, I want the msds, so it's just round-and-round we go.

Circlejerk. Pass on this.

(Although "god of paintstripping" may be appropriate, given they want you to take them on faith before ordering.

Faith just isn't something the c-dog does.

Yea no thanks. I'd happily give it a try and post of a review, but honestly their methods/customer service are too shady.

If you're looking for a god substance, I think I may have just found one this morning by the name of Isopropyl.

I just finished a tutorial if you'd like to check it out: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/697164.page

Hah seriously, do you guys demand MSDS for all of your hobby products? ...half the stuff we use is legitimately toxic to begin with. The glues that every single one of us uses on every model is an inhalation hazard.

I mean it's good to know, I just find it funny that you are so hung-up on the MSDS for this, and they are right, placards and MSDS are only required when shipping large amounts - they probably just don't want to give away their secret recipe.

The difference is most products clearly state what is in them, for example, paint usually says whether it is oil or acrylic based, and if it didn't I would certainly want to know something like that before buying it.

It would be interesting to see the MSDS, simply because it may contain chemicals that we are already using, and able to buy cheaper elsewhere, such as isopropyl alcohol or dichloromethane. It would also give us an idea of how the stripper will perform without having to waste time and money testing it ourselves (dichloromethane, for example, melts plastic).

It's not about safety paranoia, it's just curiosity about what is actually being sold. The MSDS is a convenient way to access that information.

Most times, when a company doesn't state what's in it and doesn't provide any sort of way to figure out, chances are it's the lowest cost item overpriced.

I'm not seeing a price for it. It's probably something extremely cheap that you can by at CVS, Walgreens, or some drug store.

 Elbows wrote:
Superclean is good for you. I bathe in the stuff.

I drink a mug every morning before work

My polystyrene cement lists (toluene x%) as it's main ingredient.
My brush cleaning solution lists (isopropyl acohol x%)
My filler putty lists solvent percentage (also toluene).

Their miracle strip doesn't.
I just want to know what's in the magic solution. I want to see the man behind the curtain.

That's all.
I can get suitable products here for less than they charge, though - even the local artists supplies place doesn't gouge on cleaning products.

Dear company, please tell me your ingredients so I don't have to buy your product and can make my own version cheaper.

...and they refused?!?

I don't think it's unreasonable to ask what the main ingredient is, or the active ingredient. It should be printed on the bottle, really. Many companies do this -- they just don't give away the ratios that are used to mix up their super secret mixture. If they won't disclose what is in the product, don't buy from them.

It's probably just iso, drain cleaner, or simple green anyway.

By the way, the FAQ says --

What's the main active ingredient of the product?

The remover is a blend of low toxic Diethylene glycol butyl ether, DBE esters and high flash alcohols. Diethylene glycol butyl ether (2-(2-Butoxyethoxy)ethanol) is one of the least toxic glycol types (classified just as an irritant) but its dissolving properties are on a par with popular but much more harmful Ethylene glycol butyl ether (2-Butoxyethanol) which is used in brake fluids, industrial paint strippers and similar agents. Special composition makes our remover both safer and more comfortable to work with. 2-(2-Butoxyethoxy)ethanol poses no inhalation hazards it can merely irritate eyes.

Since DGBE is a solvent all by itself, it's entirely possible that it's the only ingredient in the product, or the only ingredient in the product that matters. Here is the Dow Chemical sheet on DGBE --
http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedLiteratureDOWCOM/dh_0926/0901b803809269a1.pdf?filepath=productsafety/pdfs/noreg/233-00262.pdf&fromPage=GetDoc

If anyone has used it...

What does it smell like, and do odors linger or are they brief? Is it caustic? Does it work on resin as well as plastic? Does it do anything to fillers (like squadron putty and liquid greenstuff) or does it eat it? How does it treat superglue?

FAQ says it works as long as base coat was primed with an acrylic primer, or if an enamel was used on top of an acrylic primer. It also says that enamel paint jobs (implied, as the first coat) "might be removed to some extent only" and that it's formulated "to deal with acrylic products". How about Polyurethane primers? The problem being, I have nearly zero models that are primed with just acrylic -- the exception being the ones I paint on vacation with based with Gesso, but those are so few.

What's the effectiveness versus Dettol? Versus IPA bath?

Serious questions; I'm always looking for another paint stripper

So its a different formulation of brake fluid?

cool. i hear that 3dot works super well on plastic so at least its possible that it works the same without maybe the environmental hazards involved.

im sure it will still melt resin though :/