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I haven't touched my modelling supplies in quite a while and just now I broke out my models to take some pictures for an upcoming advice thread/P&M blog and one of the Meltagun-holding hands of a Biker broke off, went to get my glue and the bottle is just empty. It clearly hasn't seeped out as the box I keep all this stuff in is clean at the bottom, though it has that glue-y smell to it, so did it just evaporate or something? Is that a normal thing?
I suppose this also begs the question of how best to replace it? The Games Workshop website has an entry for a "Plastic Glue" that seems to be in a bottle of the same shape as my stuff but I remember there was a Thin Plastic Glue (what I had) and a Thick Plastic Glue, neither of which are on the website anymore. And there might be something else I should get, but I want something as close as possible to the stuff I used to have.

Also on a sidenote I checked some of my paints, specifically my pots of Caliban Green, Ushabti Bone and Ceramite White. All three has seemed to split off into a weird blue liquid but the first two seemed to be fine after I shook them up a bit (the last still seemed quite lumpy and weird, but maybe I just didn't shake it up enough). Is this something to be worried about? As a sidenote, haven't checked the rest yet.

In all honesty you're best getting some Humbrol plastic glue that comes with a brush applicator like the old superglue did.
Far more controlled application, and a great big pot for the same money. I'm sorry yours shrivelled up. Mine was like that from day one in the packaging. Guessing the bottle seal badly.

 Buttery Commissar wrote:
In all honesty you're best getting some Humbrol plastic glue that comes with a brush applicator like the old superglue did.
Far more controlled application, and a great big pot for the same money. I'm sorry yours shrivelled up. Mine was like that from day one in the packaging. Guessing the bottle seal badly.

On the glue front, I agree with Buttery Commissar. I thought I was one of the few/far-between that uses Humbrol. It's much more cost-efficient, as everything tends to be, than the GW counterpart, and the applicator is awesome as mentioned.

With regard to your Ushbanti Bone and Ceramite White, most "whites", at least in the Citadel line, tend to have a peculiarity about them. Many of the "whites" I ever purchased from GW always tends to have some unusual consistencies that are....inconsistent, most commonly the whites being "chunky". I don't quite recall the scientifc explanation behind why (I believe it has something to do with altitude/humidity), but I was told that this is common. In my experience it certainly is. Clearly this doesn't apply to your Caliban Green issue, but the new pots also can be rather finicky with closing and snapping the lid to seal it (sometimes while you may hear the "snap", it will only click in on the front while the rest of the cap is not clicked in).

Regarding Humbrol, I have a couple things:
1) Where can I get it?
2) That brush applicator sounds rather awkward to me, I'm really used to the Citadel bottle. Are there other options in that regard?

Also I'd just like to note that it didn't shrivel up, it just VANISHED, the bottle was completely empty. This is mostly what confused me so hard.

On the paints, that sounds logical since my white was giving me problems and my bone was ridiculously thin. Mostly I'm just wondering if them separating like that is normal and if they'll be okay after having been shaken up like that. I do get the seal issue though, I think I'm pretty careful when closing the pots (though I suppose that's no guarantee).

Is it the metal needle type applicator you are looking for?

Revell make this... I've not tried it yet as I still have some thin plastic glue left.

http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/hobby-and-misc/revell-glues/revell-contacta?d=22&gclid=CIC4rtOM_s4CFeYp0wodc08EdQ

Boyes, or Amazon or Hobbycraft. Anywhere that does plastic kits.

Best way to run Citadel white is to mix it with a very small amount of Dawnstone, like a 3:1 ratio Whiteawnstone. It thickens it up and gives it a GREAT consistency, then cut that mixture like you normally would thin any paint. I don't have any models out right now to show you the result sadly.

Glues I used to use Lok-tite Ultra Liquid Control or however they spell it. Very good applicator, not a brush but a good squeeze system, and the glue bonds quickly. I've since switched to Gorilla super glue because I have been doing more work with metal and resin lately than plastic. Infinity, Forge World and old 40k models seem to be all I've picked up in the last... year? But Lok-tite is still my general recommendation for strictly 40k players.

Revel plastic glue with needle applicator is EPIC. I get mine from eBay.

Bandwagon wrote:Is it the metal needle type applicator you are looking for?

Revell make this... I've not tried it yet as I still have some thin plastic glue left.

http://elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/hobby-and-misc/revell-glues/revell-contacta?d=22&gclid=CIC4rtOM_s4CFeYp0wodc08EdQ

If it's good, it looks like it would fit well, going by the similar shape! And (as I've been told) it seems a lot cheaper than the GW stuff!

Buttery Commissar wrote:Boyes, or Amazon or Hobbycraft. Anywhere that does plastic kits.

Hmmm, if the Revel stuff doesn't pan out, I'll keep that in mind.

SharkoutofWata wrote:Best way to run Citadel white is to mix it with a very small amount of Dawnstone, like a 3:1 ratio Whiteawnstone. It thickens it up and gives it a GREAT consistency, then cut that mixture like you normally would thin any paint. I don't have any models out right now to show you the result sadly.

It sounds just a tad elaborate for me (I haven't done anything elaborate with my paints yet like the mixing and thinning... I know, I'm an amateur and the pics I put up in that thread are probably gonna kill someone...) but given how many issues the white's given me and the state that paint is currently in, I'll definitely have to keep it in mind.

SharkoutofWata wrote:Glues I used to use Lok-tite Ultra Liquid Control or however they spell it. Very good applicator, not a brush but a good squeeze system, and the glue bonds quickly. I've since switched to Gorilla super glue because I have been doing more work with metal and resin lately than plastic. Infinity, Forge World and old 40k models seem to be all I've picked up in the last... year? But Lok-tite is still my general recommendation for strictly 40k players.

That's a superglue, right? If so, I'll have to keep it in mind for if and when I start doing metal or resin models.

JohnnyHell wrote:Revel plastic glue with needle applicator is EPIC. I get mine from eBay.

Ah, the stuff Bandwagon posted? Is its consistency similar to the Citadel thin stuff?

Just get any Testors/Model Masters etc. plastic cement with the metal applicator. They're all the same consistency (ie. liquid) and easily applied.

The first rule of any hobbying is to skip GW's products as they're all overpriced copies of quality materials you can find elsewhere.

 Elbows wrote:
The first rule of any hobbying is to skip GW's products as they're all overpriced copies of quality materials you can find elsewhere.

This. IIRC in some cases being overpriced copies is literally true, GW buys the stuff from the cheaper company and puts their logo on it in exchange for a huge markup. Just stop by your local hobby or art supply store and you can get all the tools/brushes/etc you need for less money.

I have no idea what they charge for it now, but they were famous for a $9 bottle of PVA glue...it's...Elmer's white glue. This was 10 years ago, I'd imagine it's at least $14.99 now.

Hah, it's only $8.25 now...but the bottle is half the size. (a matching 4 oz. bottle of Elmer's glue is $2.64)

I try to tell people that buying hobby stuff from GW is like paying $250 for floor mats in your car when you buy it at the dealership.

There's plenty of citadel plastic glue in the tap if you need it.

I'd suggest this stuff depending on what you can get.

Elbows wrote:Just get any Testors/Model Masters etc. plastic cement with the metal applicator. They're all the same consistency (ie. liquid) and easily applied.

I just wanted to clarify, I didn't think it wasn't gonna be liquid or anything, just wanted to be sure it wasn't going to be massively thinner or thicker in a way that would really throw me off.

Elbows wrote:The first rule of any hobbying is to skip GW's products as they're all overpriced copies of quality materials you can find elsewhere.

Well, I'd definitely heard of the downfalls of Citadel stuff but this is pretty extreme compared to what I'd seen before (mostly stuff like the Citadel paints versus Vallejo paints thing - similar prices but the latter has slightly bigger pots, which is nothing compared to GW trying to push the same product at multiple times the price like here and it's not even like Revell is some no-name value brand, just for one example!).

And that's another recommendation for the Revell stuff, I know what I'm getting now!

Well the Revell Contacta stuff I ordered came in today and I can definitely confirm that it works the same as the Citadel stuff I'm used to (in fact it might be a minor plus but the cap seems to fit better, coming on and off easier), I can definitely recommend it!

Now I will say I gotta reiterate the question about my paints separating, is that something to be worried about or is it normal and harmless once I shake them up again?

 CrashGordon94 wrote:
Well the Revell Contacta stuff I ordered came in today and I can definitely confirm that it works the same as the Citadel stuff I'm used to (in fact it might be a minor plus but the cap seems to fit better, coming on and off easier), I can definitely recommend it!

Now I will say I gotta reiterate the question about my paints separating, is that something to be worried about or is it normal and harmless once I shake them up again?

The paint separating is normal. I've got old citadel paints from the 1990s and they go like that, but a quick shake and they're fine.

A word of warning on that particualr brand of glue. It's good stuff, but the metal nozzle has the annoying habit of getting clogged up, so beware of that. Still top stuff though, and cheaper than the GW version.

 Do_I_Not_Like_That wrote:
The paint separating is normal. I've got old citadel paints from the 1990s and they go like that, but a quick shake and they're fine.

Oh great, thank you for letting me know!

 Do_I_Not_Like_That wrote:
A word of warning on that particualr brand of glue. It's good stuff, but the metal nozzle has the annoying habit of getting clogged up, so beware of that. Still top stuff though, and cheaper than the GW version.

Considering this seems to be the exact same stuff as the GW version in a differently colored and labeled bottle, I'm not surprised. Already had to overcome that issue and I've got it down (Plan A is just to take out the nozzle and run it under a hot tap, if that doesn't work I put a lighter to the removed nozzle to burn out the clogging, which ultimately gets the job down if the hot water doesn't but I obviously try to avoid doing resorting to that where possible) so I'm ready for it.

I don't know if they do anymore, but the Model Master version of that same glue (ie. just liquid cement) used to come with a tiny looped pin you could use to clear any clogs - it's also why it's a good idea to leave the bottle sitting as shown in the picture --- the angle is supposed to drain the glue back into the reservoir between applications.

What is wrong with this?

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Plastic-Glue-2016-Global

The applicator is much, much more useful than the one on the old Plastic Glue Thick -- which was like trying to use a sledgehammer to hang a photo. I never understood how anyone used the massive nozzle on that. The only time I've ever seen it used out of the bottle, I think was a Duncan video where he was putting together Sector Imperialis terrain (frankly, I prefer superglue for that, since it's gap-filling).

$7 for 0.7 ounces vs. $3.89 for 1 oz.

So, the usual. Pay more for less. I'm sure the glue and the applicator are probably very similar, etc.

Elbows wrote:I don't know if they do anymore, but the Model Master version of that same glue (ie. just liquid cement) used to come with a tiny looped pin you could use to clear any clogs - it's also why it's a good idea to leave the bottle sitting as shown in the picture --- the angle is supposed to drain the glue back into the reservoir between applications.

That sounds handy, will have to think about that if it's available here (and depending on how the price compares to the Revell version).

Gotcha on the standing, explains the odd shape and makes sense.

Talys wrote:What is wrong with this?

https://www.games-workshop.com/en-US/Citadel-Plastic-Glue-2016-Global

The applicator is much, much more useful than the one on the old Plastic Glue Thick -- which was like trying to use a sledgehammer to hang a photo. I never understood how anyone used the massive nozzle on that. The only time I've ever seen it used out of the bottle, I think was a Duncan video where he was putting together Sector Imperialis terrain (frankly, I prefer superglue for that, since it's gap-filling).

If it hasn't changed since I used it then nothing really, it's good stuff. The issue is that Revell and other brands seem to sell the exact same thing for a lesser price, so it's better to get their version than GW's.

For comparison in the UK the GW version is £4.30 before shipping and the Revell version was £3.24 off Amazon, shipping included. Again, a decent chuck off to get the same product!