Switch Theme:

Metal thunderhawk tips  [RSS] Share on facebook Share on Twitter Submit to Reddit
»
Author Message
Advert


Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
  • No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
  • Times and dates in your local timezone.
  • Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
  • Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
  • Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.




Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




So I just went and bought the Metal Brick on ebay, should arrive in a few weeks, so I do have a question, does anyone have any info or builds they did to stop the saging, I really could not find any Videos instructions on how to build the thunderhawk at all.

Kind regards

William
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Columbia, MO USA

I wonder, could you build it, then fill it with resin for strength? I would look into doing something like that if I was going to do one myself. And it goes without saying: I would pin it like a madman.
   
Made in us
Did Fulgrim Just Behead Ferrus?





Fort Worth, TX

Hmm, maybe not do much filling it with resin, but what about that expanding spray insulation foam? Not sure if that would really do much. But the usual advice is to pin the hell out of it.

"Through the darkness of future past, the magician longs to see.
One chants out between two worlds: Fire, walk with me."
- Twin Peaks
"You listen to me. While I will admit to a certain cynicism, the fact is that I am a naysayer and hatchetman in the fight against violence. I pride myself in taking a punch and I'll gladly take another because I choose to live my life in the company of Gandhi and King. My concerns are global. I reject absolutely revenge, aggression, and retaliation. The foundation of such a method... is love. I love you Sheriff Truman." - Twin Peaks 
   
Made in gb
Keeper of the Holy Orb of Antioch





avoiding the lorax on Crion

the lead monster.

much painning is in your future.

ive seen pictures of people also using a steel plate in ite centre to mount and spread weight when mounted on a stand.

Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.

"May the odds be ever in your favour"

Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.

FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.  
   
Made in nl
Regular Dakkanaut



Netherlands

Not mine, but Shandara has some nice in progress shots of his metal TH:
http://www.gwhobby.net/forum/index.php?topic=221.msg392982#msg392982
   
Made in gb
Keeper of the Holy Orb of Antioch





avoiding the lorax on Crion

There is a kind like a expanding glue.

Its expandy foam but very sticky.
But not sure what change make strength wise.

Sgt. Vanden - OOC Hey, that was your doing. I didn't choose to fly in the "Dongerprise'.

"May the odds be ever in your favour"

Hybrid Son Of Oxayotl wrote:
I have no clue how Dakka's moderation work. I expect it involves throwing a lot of d100 and looking at many random tables.

FudgeDumper - It could be that you are just so uncomfortable with the idea of your chapters primarch having his way with a docile tyranid spore cyst, that you must deny they have any feelings at all.  
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




Ok, i also thought of foam but it could extremly heavy, and i am a fit guy, 5kg is nothing to me, already thinking about pining and micro welding, i thinking a steel plate with with a structaral steel internal frame like a fish or boat frame, microweld may be the best option, need to look more into once it is infront of me, need to grab on the steel structure which is internal somehow
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





I don't actually think foam would help all that much. Foam is more useful when you have strong skins which aren't capable of transferring shear from one side to the other - stuff like carbon fibre or glass fibre skins on the wing of an aircraft.

Unless I'm misunderstanding how the thing goes together.

If you can get a steel plate in there, especially if the long axis of the plate is aligned vertically rather than horizontally, that should work.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Soldering perhaps? Find a suitable low melt solder and a temperature controlled iron with a bit of power to it, combine with pins for stability during the process. Will also fill gaps, use a 99 degree melt and can undo it by boiling in water if needed?
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




I have to agree with you guys, Soldering is what I read up on, most post regarding it says to difficult but is usually better then glue and perhaps doable on bigger models (like this), it may not be bad with the amount of metal involved, as alot of this thunder hawks seem to fall apart, metal plate is also a must, and extreme amount of pinning. haha, ahh well. I need to buy the correct solderer though.
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Stare at it then cry a bit.

Then probably an ass ton of pinning is probably your bet bet.

Soldering could work but you need to be careful. also no open flames doing it with propane will probably make you very sad very quick.

you could also build up a sub structure out of plastic or wood, then epoxy it together.


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






Personally, again myself, I would not even build it.

It's ugly, it takes an act of what ever got you believe it to keep it together, and for me it's a collectors item, and would almost seem wrong to build.

That said, I would advice in a very strong two part apoxy and pinning, get some brass rod, and a drill and some vice grips and a steady hand.

To many unpainted models to count. 
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





My first tip was to sell it off, hopefully at a profit?
   
Made in ch
Warning From Magnus? Not Listening!





Holy Terra.

Make a dread sock out of it.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/684128.page

   
Made in us
Douglas Bader






 Desubot wrote:
Soldering could work but you need to be careful.


DO NOT DO THIS.

The metal that miniatures are cast from has an extremely small temperature range between "completely solid" to "molten puddle on your desk", and the melting point is at a very low temperature. It is theoretically possible to solder miniatures together but even the slightest error in temperature control will destroy the model before you realize that anything is wrong. Soldering cheap and easily replaceable stuff is stupid. Soldering an expensive OOP collector's item is really stupid. Just light some hundred dollar bills on fire and get the same end result.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/11/01 09:02:54


There is no such thing as a hobby without politics. "Leave politics at the door" is itself a political statement, an endorsement of the status quo and an attempt to silence dissenting voices. 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




You are aware solderinf metal kits is a technique that's been used a while? If a 90 degree melt solder will stick and you have a temp controlled iron I'm not seeing the problem, before mine broke I found it worked well and can be a lot easier to remove if you muck it up than glue.

Horses for things horses run round of course but there are a whole slew of kits out there held together with solder, it's far from uncommon
   
Made in us
Librarian with Freaky Familiar






leopard wrote:
You are aware solderinf metal kits is a technique that's been used a while? If a 90 degree melt solder will stick and you have a temp controlled iron I'm not seeing the problem, before mine broke I found it worked well and can be a lot easier to remove if you muck it up than glue.

Horses for things horses run round of course but there are a whole slew of kits out there held together with solder, it's far from uncommon


Thing is not many people know how to solder correctly, and that miniature is not one to test on.

To many unpainted models to count. 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






leopard wrote:
You are aware solderinf metal kits is a technique that's been used a while? If a 90 degree melt solder will stick and you have a temp controlled iron I'm not seeing the problem, before mine broke I found it worked well and can be a lot easier to remove if you muck it up than glue.

Horses for things horses run round of course but there are a whole slew of kits out there held together with solder, it's far from uncommon


Ether way I agree with Peregrine its not really worth royally fething something up.

Reinforce it with plastic or wood and 2 part epoxy it.


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




Agree it takes practice, and equipment, but until mine broke it was by far the best way to put kits together that had trouble with glue.

Main downside is the lack of a weak point at the join, i.e. drop it and it will more likely break than pop apart.

Doubt I'd practice on a thunderhawk, but its a useful technique to know.

on the plus side you then have the kit to add lights


If not going for that I'd go with pins and superglue, epoxy works but if it goes wrong is a swine to remove, least superglue isn't that hard to get off again, maybe a few 'pins' that look closer to roofing nails given how heavy that must be.

I'd be more worried wreaking it with a drill than a soldering iron, and I *know* I'd wreak it with araldite, probably stay in one bit, just not recognisable.

Either way looking forwards to see it
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Im sure if the glue job goes bad, a quick bath in acetone would deal with it pretty quick.

i dont think pewter is effected by it. though if its an older model maybe it might with the lead(?)

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




Dont worry my first attempt aint going to be the thunderhawk at soldering, i got a few pieces of veterans, dreadnoughts etc i will try soldering on first, if i master it i will post a few videos, if i dont then glue is the best option with reinforcement, brass rod sound great, and the reinforcement with plastic, instead of steel frame may be better. Vice grips also look helpful thanks for that. Well lets just wait a month until it arrives, and then fun begins. Thanks again everyone

I prob tape While building asking for suggestions along the way.
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






Id watch out with vice grips.

dont want to mar the surface.


 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





You can get a whole heap of small clamps from a hardware store that have rubber grips to avoid damaging the surfaces. A few bar clamps and a couple of spring clamps are useful. You can also use a bit of that non-slip rubber sheeting and put it on the clamping surface to help prevent the clamp slipping off if you're clamping on a weird angle.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2016/11/02 16:51:35


 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Nottinghamshire

Nice, watching this topic with close interest.
Did the one you buy have a kitty in the display pics?
I was dying to go for one, but the customs fee of an additional 20% scared me away. I'm so glad someone who's actually gonna build the kit picked one of these up.


[ Mordian 183rd ] - an ongoing Imperial Guard story with crayon drawings!
[ "I can't believe it's not Dakka!" ] - a buttery painting and crafting blog
 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




Yep, the one with the kitty, though ge wouldnt include it, ill do an update after it arrives.
   
Made in in
[MOD]
Otiose in a Niche






Hyderabad, India

Do a diorama of some tech priests trying to put a T-hawk together?

Someone did one a year or two ago and had a blog on Dakka. Try and look for it.

 
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




Well it has Finally arrived, I will post a video about it tomorrow, the box is falling apart and is a lot bigger then I thought, thinking what have I gotten myself into, never give up, never surrender.
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





Well, don't expect any sympathy here - the entire thread is essentially "don't do it!"...so...good luck!
   
Made in au
Fresh-Faced New User




There are metal thunderhawks? How old are those bricks? I've never even heard of them until now.
   
Made in us
Powerful Phoenix Lord





Very small run of them from maybe...1999-2000? A while back.
   
 
Forum Index » Painting & Modeling
Go to: