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Looking at assembling a Space Marine army and I really like the Mk IVs. So why not make all the marines Mk IVs?

I do run into some issues - namely a limited weapons loadout unless I want to shell out heaps of extra cash. But still:

Tactical Squads - no brainer, roughly equivalent. No grav - probably just get Centurions for grav anyways. Wondering if the MkIV helmets fit Centurions.
Sternguards - do-able, give the sternguard versions the bumpy shoulders, crotch decoration and plumed helmets, maybe the combat knives as well. Load them up with extra kit (holsters, satchels, etc.)
Devastators - limited to Missile Launchers (okay?) and Heavy Bolters (less ok, more ok on Imperial Fists)
Assault Marines/Vanguards - Forge World MkIV Assault Marines. Pricey but pretty awesome.
Bike Squads - awesome Forge World MkIV bikers I'm totally willing to shell out for. Possibility of converting Assault Bikers from them.
Command Squad - MkIV Apothecary and Standard Bearer are available from Forge World, though probably cheaper to just buy plastic and swap heads..
Character Models - Captains can be easily made, MkIV Techmarines available from Forge World, but Librarians/Chaplains are probably more difficult conversions.

My inclination is to run these guys as Salamanders, so access to Flamer/Melta isn't a problem using MkIVs. With all the bolter dakka it might be worth going Imperial Fists (or rather, Crimson Fists with IF Chapter Tactics). Vehicle wise, a mix of Drop Pods (Sternguard, Centurions) and Razorbacks for transport (this brings the Lascannon to the party).

Thoughts/Comments? I don't need it to be super competitive, I'll mostly play friendly games, but I think it can be dialed up to semi-competitive.

If you are going FW, I think they made a large batch of heavy weapon kits to go with the BaC box. So there are options besides just ML/HB. And if you are OK with a backpack/shoulder pad or two being from a different mark of armor, you could just use the normal dev box.

But you could probably make a perfectly serviceable list out of it. Probably a battle demi-co backed up by a 1st co. TF.

Hmm. The conversion rate (pound to CAD) isn't too bad at the moment. For $20 CAD I'd get 1 each of Plasma Cannon, Lascannon, Multi Melta and Heavy Bolter, which can be slapped on plastic MkIVs no problem. I'd probably want to dump enough for 4 sets, which would give me all I'd need basically forever. Good call.

Looking closer, there's a Red Scorpions Librarian (Sevrin Loth) with Honorguard that's a sharp knife away from being free of Chapter designation. He's even wearing a HELMET.

Instead of the one-of-each bundles, they do make single weapon packs. So if you wanted a 4xLC Dev squad, you could grab this:

https://www.forgeworld.co.uk/en-AT/Ryza-Pattern-Lascannon-Set


I think they do them for all the guns. So you wouldn’t end up with things like PCs which you might not want.

Yeah, there's so much on the FW website it's taking time to find everything.

The Volkite Culverns would make killer alternate heavy flamers, I'm thinking.

Edit: Managed to acquire a Betrayal At Calth boxed set.

Did a trial scheme, I'm fairly happy with the results. I thought about doing the chest cabling in metallic, but I'll probably save that for jump troops and/or Sternguards to set them apart. Still have to put the decals and varnish and finish the basing, but it was enough for one night.


https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/443/32186006492_2880d81b06.jpg

No picture, and the link isn't workin.

 Elbows wrote:
No picture, and the link isn't workin.

That's Flickr, it gives Dakka conniptions sometimes. I uploaded it to the gallery.

Nice. I really like the green. If I'm honest I think the chest cabling being the same as color as the armor makes them look unfinished, but that may just be me. Looking forward to pics with the decals completed.

I’ll agree the green cables make it look unfinished. I might pick out the studs in a different color as well.

But otherwise a nice crisp paintjob.

Crisp paintwork, but I fully agree - chest cables and studs desperately need some colour, or metallic.

@John Prins - They're some really great looking Salamanders there, though I do have to echo that the cabling makes them look WIP - which is no problem if they are actually WIP. Looking forward to seeing the finished product. Oh and, needs more flames!

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions. I think you're all correct about the cabling, though in the future I'll paint them without the guns (good part; the Mark IV marines come with gun and hand as one piece) and backpack to make this easier. So I painted the cables, made the right knee black, and I also added the Salamander decals, though I've always found them somewhat problematic. It beats painting them by hand, but I do get some unavoidable crinkling. Hopefully the decal sealer and eventual varnish will take care of it.

Anyway, progress photo, this time in my lightbooth. A bit out of focus on the edges, that's what happens when you do macro photography on 5 minis at once.



Also, link to Flickr image (better resolution): https://www.flickr.com/photos/52990657@N04/31545625433/sizes/l/. Or use the link in my .sig!

Very nice! The added detail really helps them a lot.

Good start to an army.

Ah they look much better with the cabling done - adds more contrast. Quick note on the decals - do you cut them? If you don't, a few well placed slices help enable the decal to conform to the curved surface of the pauldron. Here's an image off B&C:



I sometimes place a cut further down, in the joint between the last spine and the protruding bit coming back from the jaw.

Hope that helps.

 Warpig1815 wrote:
Ah they look much better with the cabling done - adds more contrast. Quick note on the decals - do you cut them? If you don't, a few well placed slices help enable the decal to conform to the curved surface of the pauldron. Here's an image off B&C:

Thank you, this will be very helpful. I trimmed the decals very closely, but I didn't actually cut the decal, and I can see how it would have helped. It's been a long time since I tried putting Salamanders decals on (8 years?) and I pretty much gave up on them because of it. My old Salamanders (5 guys plus a Rhino):





The bases were too much work and another reason I gave up on it. I still have the painting template for the Rhino, though. The Rhino was done in P3 greens, and was a serious trial on my sanity (so many coats). Now I have an airbrush and things should go much smoother (pun intended).

More progress; A chaplain:



A second squad of 5 (identical to first):



And the full progress to date:



Once the weather co-operates, I'll get some varnishing done and finish the bases.

Looking splendid! Really like the green you pulled off.

If I can make a suggestion about decals, you don't need to cut them, just apply decal softener after you put the decal on and use a wet brush to conform it to curves. Historical modellers have been doing it forever for much much harder to work with surfaces (like Zimmerit on WW2 tanks for example!)

Keep them coming regardless, love your take on the salamanders!

 Joyous_Oblivion wrote:
Looking splendid! Really like the green you pulled off.

If I can make a suggestion about decals, you don't need to cut them, just apply decal softener after you put the decal on and use a wet brush to conform it to curves. Historical modellers have been doing it forever for much much harder to work with surfaces (like Zimmerit on WW2 tanks for example!)

Keep them coming regardless, love your take on the salamanders!

Thanks. This is the same green as described in GW's video about painting Salamanders; Black primer, Waaaagh Green basecoat followed by Warpstone Glow overcoat, Nuln Oil shading and Moot Green highlights. The only difference is that I'm using an airbrush to lay down the primer and first 2 green layers.

Cutting the decals worked surprisingly well, though. I didn't get any apparent gaps in the decal once it was down, though I'll look into decal softeners.

Right now I'm working on a drop pod for a change of pace. It looks like it can be painted with the bottom separate, so that the doors can be painted separately, which should make things a lot easier, though there's a temptation to just glue the doors shut. I sort of want to get one unit or vehicle done a week and the insides of a drop pod are fiddly as heck.

Moved to P&M Blog thread https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/716871.page#9186203