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So whilst dry brushing a Daemon prince I knocked and broke one of it's spikes, specifically these ones:

(That bugger with the skulls on the left, )

Now this is extremely annoying because I know from past experience spikes don't like to play fair: they are too small for glueing, sometimes they'll stick but they will be even more fragile afterwards, and they are too slim for green stuff, a blob of green stuff connecting the broken halves looks hideous. Has anyone found a techinque that works when repairing broken spikes?

Thanks.

I agree with you; this is a pain, and no, glue rarely works. I saved a thin pole like this once by not using a blob of GS, but sculpting a new bit on it (It was a lance so I made the GS a flowing pennant). Is there room for a skull or some such bobble to be sculpted over the break? Thus the "Blob" of GS looks like part of the mini? A short scroll is easy, just flatten GS to appropriate shape and then apply.

edwardmyst wrote:
I agree with you; this is a pain, and no, glue rarely works. I saved a thin pole like this once by not using a blob of GS, but sculpting a new bit on it (It was a lance so I made the GS a flowing pennant). Is there room for a skull or some such bobble to be sculpted over the break? Thus the "Blob" of GS looks like part of the mini? A short scroll is easy, just flatten GS to appropriate shape and then apply.

The break is reasonably close to the base of the spike so I could make a connecting ball/skull/etc. But I am also asking in general, I have other models with more difficult breaks on their spikes.

Since it's snapped at the bottom, cut it off flush with the bottom of the skull.
Drill a small hole in the bottom of the skull and then another in the attachment point.
Use some paperclip wire to slot into both drilled holes.


Essentially your pinning it, but using some exposed pin to replace the broken pole section as it's too fragile.

I think Jackal's got the best suggestion but also, if you use plastic weld glue, it would work ok. Since it is melting the ends together, the join would be flush then. This is how I tend to do mine.

but I also try not to dry brush fragile stuffs like that :( Or if you do, I found it's best to hold it against your finger for instance, to try to give it support while db'ing.

Good luck!

If it's plastic, use plastic cement and if it's resin, use an epoxy glue.

Make sure you rig up the model in a position which holds the part in place BEFORE you try and apply any glue. You might want to use blutack or something to make a little jig to hold the part in place while it's drying.

If the joint wiggles back and forth while drying because you don't have a good way to clamp it in place, the joint will usually be weaker because you're breaking the bonds as they're trying to form, give it a good amount of time to properly cure before you try removing the clamps/jog/whatever.

Don't use superglue on parts like that, it's too brittle and doesn't have enough flex.