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Yo guys im still trying to perfect my techniques when it comes to painting my models, i just got my first ravenwing and want them to be my best models yet so my question in i have sprayed my ravenwing commander in chaos black primer (The GW stuff) and now should i go straight to painting with leadbelcher for all my silver or give the model and quick once over in abbadon black paint?

Which is the better of the two (i also plan to dry brush for my highlights as im not great in edge highlighting yet and theres alot too highlight with ravenwing

 Kalidris wrote:
Yo guys im still trying to perfect my techniques when it comes to painting my models, i just got my first ravenwing and want them to be my best models yet so my question in i have sprayed my ravenwing commander in chaos black primer (The GW stuff) and now should i go straight to painting with leadbelcher for all my silver or give the model and quick once over in abbadon black paint?

Which is the better of the two (i also plan to dry brush for my highlights as im not great in edge highlighting yet and theres alot too highlight with ravenwing

I'm not sure If i understand the question but the order should be:
Base Coat Black -> Apply Leadbelcher -> Shade/Nuln Oil -> Highlight with Ironbreaker and then highlight with Runefang Steel.
Of course you can do different approach, there are so many ways to make metallics, but this is what I usually do for the metal/silver parts of models.

My proposed apporach for this model was to
Spray paint it black -> go over it again with black paint -> dry brush for highlights -> apply leadbelcher -> wash in nuln oil (only on silver)

Id spray prime black

Touch up areas you missed with black by hairy stick

then highlight with dark grey
high super high points with a grey lighter than that

then do metals.

A spray can will most likely have a different finish to the paint from a bottle, which is why Duncan always recommends a coat of Abaddon Black even if the primer is black.

Primer is for mass painting if you want it table top standard paint straight on top of the primer, if you want it to show off to people prime then base coat.

I don't use primer any more it helps the paint stick but it clogs up the details no matter how carful you are, how ever if you have a air brush use that, there's no comparison its fast and you get the exact right amount of paint on the model.

 Ghaz wrote:
A spray can will most likely have a different finish to the paint from a bottle, which is why Duncan always recommends a coat of Abaddon Black even if the primer is black.

Duncan always recommends an extra coat of Abaddon Black because he's employed to sell paint.

Whether or not you can use your primer as your base coat depends on how it matches the base coat color you touch up with. I use Army Painter primer on my Ravenwing and I can touch up with Army Painter Matte Black with no problems. However, I've heard that GW Chaos Black spray does not match their paints, so if you have to repaint or touch up a black area you will be able to see the difference.

My process for painting Ravenwing goes like this:

All parts painted separately: front wings and rider are pinned to corks

Prime with Army Painter black

Base all metal areas (I do NMM so these all go Vallejo Dark Grey)

Base all white areas/feathers (I start with Vallejo Nuetral Grey)
Layer all white areas (Citadel Ulthuan Grey)
Wash all feathers with blue ink
Highlight all feathers (Citadel Ulthuan Grey)

Base all leather/parchment/bone (I start with Vallejo Heavy Brown)
Layer all parchment/bone (Vallejo Deck Tan)
Wash all leather/parchment (Army Painter Strong Tone)
Highlight all parchment (Vallejo Deck Tan)
Highlight all bone (Vallejo Bone White)

Base all weapon casings (Citadel Mephiston Red)
Wash all red areas (I make black wash out of Vallejo Black)
Highlight all red areas (Citadel Mephiston Red)

Paint headlights white, then whatever color you choose
Wash headlights
Highlight headlights

Assemble front fairing to bike

Base all gold areas (again, I do NMM so I start with Vallejo Heavy Brown, then shade up with Heavy Gold Brown and down with Sepia Ink)
Highlight all metal areas (Vallejo Dead White for gold, Citadel Ulthuan Grey for steel)

Highlight all black areas (Vallejo Turquoise mixed with Army Painter Matte Black)
Highlight all black areas (This time thinner lines with more Turquoise)

And that's pretty much it. I may have some extra steps or coats that I can cut out and get the same results, still learning myself.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 BattleMetalChris wrote:

 Ghaz wrote:
A spray can will most likely have a different finish to the paint from a bottle, which is why Duncan always recommends a coat of Abaddon Black even if the primer is black.

Duncan always recommends an extra coat of Abaddon Black because he's employed to sell paint.

Being in the process of painting a boatload of Ravenwing, I can assure you that touching up with a different black WILL show up pretty obviously, unless you do the Army Painter thing with matching sprays and base paints.

 BattleMetalChris wrote:

 Ghaz wrote:
A spray can will most likely have a different finish to the paint from a bottle, which is why Duncan always recommends a coat of Abaddon Black even if the primer is black.

Duncan always recommends an extra coat of Abaddon Black because he's employed to sell paint.

Even if that factors in, the finish on the paints is indeed different. He's not lying about it.