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Just got in a 1/35 scale M4A3 Tank and I am working on converting it into a Ork Looted Vehicle. I am New to 40k, what would be the best things to add to make it look more Orkish? Suggestions on Paints and parts? I am Probably going to go with a brown base-coat. Will post the the finished product.

It'll take a lot of work to hide that classic silhouette. Just google "ork kitbashed vehicles" and you'll find a world of inspiration.

I'd use as little as possible of the real Sherman (lose the turret, or at the very least move it somehow).

 Elbows wrote:
It'll take a lot of work to hide that classic silhouette. Just google "ork kitbashed vehicles" and you'll find a world of inspiration.

I'd use as little as possible of the real Sherman (lose the turret, or at the very least move it somehow).

Probably going to try and use some Plasticard to add some panels and things.

I'd actually recommend you don't hide the outline, instead use it to your advantage. Install a second M3 Lee-style cannon in the front armour, have a platform in the back for gretchin, use plasticard as armour plates along the sides.

 Matthew wrote:
I'd actually recommend you don't hide the outline, instead use it to your advantage. Install a second M3 Lee-style cannon in the front armour, have a platform in the back for gretchin, use plasticard as armour plates along the sides.

That could work as well, definitely going to have a place for a grot or 2, and i have a couple of pieces from random gundam and other things layin around that i could use for other guns.

Might depend on how much previous modeling you've done, how involved you want to get and so on - but I would say pick up some of the following at least:

- plasticard (styrene) rod, various sizes [Evergreen, etc]

- plasticard (styrene) hex rod, maybe 2 diff sizes

- various plasticard sheets, including a few 'special' pieces (like pre-corrugated, crosshatching etc)

- greenstuff and a tubing or tentactle maker (or just go old school playdough style)

Those are pretty much what I consider essentials - you can always beg, borrow or buy bitz as well, either from buddies or buy from bitz sellers. Also, a lot of ork kits come with extra bits so always useful, if you can afford a new kit, to get it and use the extras (or save for later).

I agree very much about checking for images of orkiness - instagram #orkification, dakka's gallery, google images - these are all your friend. Also, don't forget White Dwarf, the ork boxes themselves, GW art and such.

You can do as little or as much really to 'convert' that Sherman to Ork. I agree that the gun itself, though not necessarily the turret, is probably better being replaced. Or, added to with plasticard tubes, to look more '40k'.

But the main thing is: rivets rivets rivets! Lots of plates, showing a ramshackle slapped together nature, and add ons for ork weapons, grots, whatever. Orks always need more dakka!

You can take a variety of thicknesses of plasticard, cut them into pieces (I'd suggest no more than 1" to 1.5" wide, 3/4" to 1" tall), make some smaller and some larger. Cut off corners - orks don't care about perfection - and carefully trim the edges so some areas are more beveled. Add rivets and bolts - plasticard rod cut into thin pieces, with slightly smaller pieces sitting on top = bolt. Also, hex rod is really good for this. You can even get fancy and score the rod to look more like a bolt if you want. Glue plates onto model haphazardly, overlapping areas.

You can also add spikes (a ram on the front of the tank might not be practical but it's very orky), handles and other such kinds of things.

Also: random battle damage. Not a necessary step but you aren't going to find an ork vehicle looking like it rolled off the assembly line. They capture stuff and then slap bits and bobs onto areas where they damaged it. They may not even take off the first layer of paint, just slap on an orky symbol right over the original.

It's kinda very madmax, post-apocalyptic, really.

Random tubes and wires are good - lots of exposed wiring. Orks don't have no OSHA. You can use the GS tool like I mentioned earlier, find bits that work, use some different gauge jewelry or soldering wire, various real wires. Or all of the above. I would caution just a bit, that you maybe don't want to use *too* much wires and tubing, as that strikes me more as Mechanicus, but definitely some.

 Guildenstern wrote:


But the main thing is: rivets rivets rivets! Lots of plates, showing a ramshackle slapped together nature, and add ons for ork weapons, grots, whatever. Orks always need more dakka!

Is there a good way to make rivets? my first idea would be to use some dabs of glue or bits of plasticard.

Thanks Btw!

Oh, and if you're going to use basic plasticard...don't buy it from Evergreen or Plastruct - go buy some "For sale" signs at Home Depot. Super duper crazy cheap and just as good for most things.

 Elbows wrote:
Oh, and if you're going to use basic plasticard...don't buy it from Evergreen or Plastruct - go buy some "For sale" signs at Home Depot. Super duper crazy cheap and just as good for most things.

Thats actually a really good idea. Thank you!

Keep us updated

 TheBlankPlank wrote:

 Guildenstern wrote:


But the main thing is: rivets rivets rivets! Lots of plates, showing a ramshackle slapped together nature, and add ons for ork weapons, grots, whatever. Orks always need more dakka!

Is there a good way to make rivets? my first idea would be to use some dabs of glue or bits of plasticard.

Thanks Btw!

good question! there's a couple of ways, some do use a small punch (like for punching holes in leather etc) to punch out rivet sized pieces of plasticard.

The one I tend to like the best requires you get a bunch of microbeads - if you have an old water filter, like a brita, for instance, you can break it open and besides the charcoal, it'll have a bunch of the beads, useable for rivets.

I'll dimple a small spot, usually with just something like a drill, not to make a hole, but just enough to make a spot for the rivet to stick in. Then you can get a toothpick, put some superglue on it, dab that on your spot. Use the toothpick to pick up the bead, then carefully set it on your dimple. It makes for a very nice looking rivet!

you can probably check the tutorial section here for something with pictures etc if you need to, as well. I can't happen to find the one I used at first (lost in the distant time now lol)

 TheBlankPlank wrote:

 Guildenstern wrote:


But the main thing is: rivets rivets rivets! Lots of plates, showing a ramshackle slapped together nature, and add ons for ork weapons, grots, whatever. Orks always need more dakka!

Is there a good way to make rivets? my first idea would be to use some dabs of glue or bits of plasticard.

Thanks Btw!

I make Orks so have done many rivets. The best I have found is plastic rod and an exacto. Trim off tiny pieces (rig up a piece of newspaper to catch them as they sometimes fly off when you cut them). Use the point of the exacto to pick up the rivet, apply a little Tamaya extra thin on the surface you want the rivet, and then touch the rivet to the glue.

Everyone pretty much covered it here. There are soooo many tips I would give, but for someone starting out, I would just say try to think about cohesion rather than randomly placing stuff on the model. Try to add some overlap with your plating and learn to utilize styrene for 3d textures. When I first started out, I looked at Ian Wyaat's stuff a lot for inspiration. You'll get a good idea of all the things you can accomplish with just a flat sheet of styrene.

I also recommend looking into testors glue. The one with the black label adheres extremely fast and has worked well for me. Just be careful as it literally melts the styrene together and can leave fingerprints if you over apply.

Here's some reference material for handy tools too. They'll save you a lot of time for stuff like this.

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/739937.page

 Novasetri wrote:
Everyone pretty much covered it here. There are soooo many tips I would give, but for someone starting out, I would just say try to think about cohesion rather than randomly placing stuff on the model. Try to add some overlap with your plating and learn to utilize styrene for 3d textures. When I first started out, I looked at Ian Wyaat's stuff a lot for inspiration. You'll get a good idea of all the things you can accomplish with just a flat sheet of styrene.

I also recommend looking into testors glue. The one with the black label adheres extremely fast and has worked well for me. Just be careful as it literally melts the styrene together and can leave fingerprints if you over apply.

Here's some reference material for handy tools too. They'll save you a lot of time for stuff like this.

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/739937.page

Thanks, this will help.

I decided to go with a Brown base coat then follow up with 2 shades of dark red. Should be starting the modeling tonight, im still waiting on some pieces to come in the mail.

Finished the Tank, looks ok i thing, still would like feed back

One billion more rivets

Needs more Dakka...


seriously though I agree, more rivets would be really good. Also more extra armour plates. Random battle damage. It just looks a little too new to me. But then I prefer heavy weathering so that may just be my opinion =)

 Guildenstern wrote:
Needs more Dakka...


seriously though I agree, more rivets would be really good. Also more extra armour plates. Random battle damage. It just looks a little too new to me. But then I prefer heavy weathering so that may just be my opinion =)

Haha Fair Enough, i think i am going to be adding a little extra Ork writing and such, it is more worn then it looks, i have a pretty poor camera on my phone. thanks, this is was my first real conversion, any cirque helps

[i][b]
OI
DATS A RIGHT PROPPA 'UMIE CRUSHA
GIVE IT SOME MORE RIVETS AND 'ARD BITZ AND YOUVE GOT A *REAL* PROPPA 'UMIE CRUSHA
What model are you using it as?

Warboss Grimdakka wrote:
[i][b]
OI
DATS A RIGHT PROPPA 'UMIE CRUSHA
GIVE IT SOME MORE RIVETS AND 'ARD BITZ AND YOUVE GOT A *REAL* PROPPA 'UMIE CRUSHA
What model are you using it as?

Probably a Battle wagon or looted wagon depending on the need.

Looking at it again, I'd suggest a bigger main cannon