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I glued some tyranid arms with wooden glue.

Now I am reworking the models. Can I glue the arms in place with citadel plastic glue or does it not work? I am having a hard time rmeoving the remaining wooden glue in the sockets.

If you can get enough of the old glue out of the way that you can get a plastic-to-plastic join, then the plastic glue should be OK. The plastic glue by itself isn't sticky - it melts the two surfaces of the plastic together, so the two surfaces will need to meet together closely.

Plastic Glue isn't really glue, it's a solvent that melts the plastic and lets it re-harden into one solid piece.

That basically means you'll need to clean enough of the wood glue off to get a decent point of contact between the two plastic pieces for the plastic glue to work, otherwise it'll just drip out of the socket.

What is the wooden glue made of though? Does the plastic glue melt this?

PVA = Polyvinyl Acetate

Nothing sticks well to PVA once it has hardened, not even more PVA. PVA might as well be super-thick gelatin, for what it's properties are.

So no, plastic glue won't work. Nor will re-gluing the parts, if you don't removed the old PVA.

Get out your pick, and start poking away. Next time, use something like...

http://www.loctiteproducts.com/p/sg_ug_cntrl/overview/Loctite-Super-Glue-ULTRA-Gel-Control.htm

because it's the bestest best-best glue you can use for minis. Strength of super-glue, with some rubber compound to give it just the tiniest bit of flex, which means it's not nearly as fragile a bond as regular glue. Only thing I use. It's amazing.

I think iso might work to break down the wood glue.

if it was normal pva you could of just left it submerged under water to rehydrate.

The plastic glue might melt it, but then you'd have the issue of a "weak" material being fused into your [hard] plastic.

Like welding steel together... with some brass mixed in. It might hold, but it wouldn't be as strong. Probably all the more so with the PVA, as it's not "solid" to begin with, but more of a really thick gelatin, like I mentioned.

C ould liquid green stuff work as glue?

 Niiai wrote:
C ould liquid green stuff work as glue?

it will not work as glue as its not glue.

its actually more of a thick paint with filler material in it.

I'm surprised no one is yet to mention you don't need to use "citadel" plastic glue, you can buy testors or revell or whatever other common hobby brand you have available to use. Just buy one with a metal needle applicator (some use plastic applicator needles which can be troublesome if they clog).

Otherwise superglue from a reputable brand, I use loctite.

Superglue creates a decent surface bond while plastic glue actually welds the two bits of plastic together. Superglued parts can often be popped apart later if you need, plastic glue can't. Plastic glue only works on polystyrene plastic models, not resin or metal or PVC or whatever else you might have, only polystyrene plastic.

As for removing wood glue, no idea, never had to do it. You could try soaking it for a long time in warm water (I dunno how long, maybe an hour or two). But many types of PVA are water resistant. I've read that soaking in vinegar might work, not tried it myself though. All the best with it.

If it won't damage your parts or paintjob, soak them in water.

That softens PVA glue, turns it white and makes it easier to remove.

Are the models painted? I find that soaking models in Simple Green to strip the paint also destroys any trace of the PVA blue I used to attach basing materials to their bases.