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How do?

Literally just taken delivery of my Adeptus Titanicus stuff. I know I know. Should’ve remembered Couriers don’t deliver on Saturdays, because reasons?

Had a quick flick through of the assembly instructions, and I see that they’ve noted points where one can paint a section before continuing on.

Looking at it, it should be a doddle to paint. Get yet super structure sussed and subassemblied, leaving off Weapons and plating. Spray chosen metallic, oily wash, dry brush (and as many extra fancy levels as you yourself fancy, natch).

But to those that’ve had the pleasure of building a Warlord (or for fyootcha readers, Reaver and Warhound), is there any wisdom you can pass on?

They're super easy to build, and if you're so inclined, you can leave the armor plates on the sprue and assemble the rest of the super-structure.

Assuming you magnetize the arms and shoulder missiles (because why wouldn't you), you shouldn't have any difficulty getting to any part of the model to paint. Because the armor plates are connected to the sprue by the edge of the trim, it's just a matter of touching up with metallics.

The Knights will be trickier; you can leave the upper plate off (the shoulders and back plate are one piece) but because of the way the head is glued in (it connects to the torso and the upper plate), it may be a little fiddlier to do.

But honestly given the scale of the models, i wouldn't do anything more than metal and wash on the superstructure anyways (edge highlights would be imperceptible at the scale)

Just built the body of the Warlord.

Interestingly, there’s no set position for the legs. Just ball joints on the hips and ankles, and standard knee joints.

My tip here, to try and get it standing up straight, is to leave the knee joints flapping during construction.

Then, dod of plakky glue in the cup receivers for the ball joints (hips and feet’s). The knee joints are fairly tight once built, certainly enough to support the weight minus the torso section.

This allowed me to, well, wiggle it into a suitable position, as all six relevant joints had at least some give.

Just make sure the runners and sockets for the ankle armour bits line up properly.

Hold until dry, then glue to the base. Sorted with minimal fussing.

Going back to the oldschool, the best thing I heard was to *remember scale for detail* These things are HUUUUUUGE.

The recent WHTV stint showing the streaking is not good, because the scale is wong. You need to do everything you would do on a 28mm model *smaller*. So that streaking needs to be exaggerated slightly (bit more opaque than you might normally do) but much finer, thinner lines. Same for markings, weathering chips and scratches and so forth - remember they're gonna be looked at by a guy that's less than 10mm tall.

Break out the 000 for it. :-)

any advice on handling the ball and socket joints on the legs of the warlord? little worried about those. I seem to have aweful luck with ball and socket joints.

Yup.

Do the hip and ankle joints together, remembering not to glue the knee joints during assembly.

This will give you a decent amount of time to wiggly it around to find the pose you like.

That's how I did mine, although the knees were too loose to stand on their own, so there was a degree of mucking about to get everything lined up.

You could also stick some Blu-Tak or masking tape over the connections for the armour plates before painting the chassis - I didn't, and then had to scrape paint off the joint surfaces when attaching the armour.

Also, try to get your pose such that the titan faces the centre of the wide side of the base - where the firing arc template sits - otherwise it'll look odd during gameplay.

I sorted the legs without the torso attached as well.

I know it sounds obvious, but it makes life so much easier.