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Made in gb
Been Around the Block





So I was thinking of eventually making a custom chapter and want to go white armour like the Luna Wolves and the White Scars.

What would you recommend keeping the my body of the armour white but a different look to the ones above?

Am thinking of Jackals for the name or Solar Shields.

But am open to ideas.
   
Made in us
Calm Celestian





Denver, CO, USA

You could start by messing around with color temperature. There's cold blue-white, warm yellowy off-white, incandescent alien green-white, etc. Some are harder to paint and other easier... be wary of the difficulty in general getting white to cover well over darker colors and mess around with the painting challenge a bit before committing. Good luck and have fun!

   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Dark Angels Predator Pilot




Hanoi, Vietnam.

I want to go this direction with my Sigmarines. Everyone I asked told me it's not worth the headache. I didn't listen. They were right. I'm still not listening though.
   
Made in gb
Been Around the Block





 MacPhail wrote:
You could start by messing around with color temperature. There's cold blue-white, warm yellowy off-white, incandescent alien green-white, etc. Some are harder to paint and other easier... be wary of the difficulty in general getting white to cover well over darker colors and mess around with the painting challenge a bit before committing. Good luck and have fun!


Will do thanks.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Ginjitzu wrote:
I want to go this direction with my Sigmarines. Everyone I asked told me it's not worth the headache. I didn't listen. They were right. I'm still not listening though.


I hope it works out in the end for you.

I didn’t know white like yellow is difficult to do.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/01/08 18:19:34


 
   
Made in nl
Veteran Inquisitorial Tyranid Xenokiller






your mind

Choose an undercoat. I like to start black and build up but others like brown can be made to work as grey or white depending on how much you want to wash and ink. Then dry brush many layers of white. Play around. Experiment. With practice you can get great results fast.

   
Made in fi
Chaplain with Hate to Spare






Definitely do not use black undercoat for white armour. Use white, bone or light grey.

Only the insane have strength enough to prosper. Only those who prosper may truly judge what is sane. 
   
Made in gb
Pyromaniac Hellhound Pilot






I get a lot of compliments on my white armoured guardsmen, tanks and knights, mainly due to the bright matt white colour. I've realised this was because I use a pure white spray as a base coat rather than an off-white (such as corax white spray from GW). From there I carefully paint in all the shading with dark grey.

I personally highly recommend using halfords white primer if you can get it!

(as a side note I only realised the difference in colours when I sprayed my latest batch of guardsmen in Corax white and they looked noticeably duller than the rest of the army. Nothing wrong with an off white look, but it sat starkly out of place with how the rest of my models were painted)

Fully Painted Armies: 2200pts Orks 1000pts Space Marines 1200pts Tau 2500pts Blood Angels 3500pts Imperial Guard/Renegades and 1700pts Daemons 450pts Imperial Knights  
   
Made in fi
Chaplain with Hate to Spare






Corax White is infuriating. GW's previous white primer was actually white and I hate that I cannot get it any more.

Only the insane have strength enough to prosper. Only those who prosper may truly judge what is sane. 
   
Made in nl
Veteran Inquisitorial Tyranid Xenokiller






your mind

 Crimson wrote:
Definitely do not use black undercoat for white armour. Use white, bone or light grey.


Why not?

   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






White isn't hard. You just need to have the technical skill required to work around the problem.

Never start with white. Work your way up to it. I'd honestly start with s grey, wash the model and drybrish/highlight your way up

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/01/09 22:05:24


 
   
Made in us
Grizzled MkII Monster Veteran





Mississippi

Not that I’m a very good painter or such, but I did my 1st company of Marines in white, with green joints/lines and gold trim (they’re also supposed to be Grey Knights).



[Thumb - 9948F566-0763-40CA-ADFB-4EB88E8C41A5.jpeg]
Grey Knights/Marine 1st Company in white


It never ends well 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






 Crimson wrote:
Corax White is infuriating. GW's previous white primer was actually white and I hate that I cannot get it any more.


Its frustrating if you started off with one and changed to another.

if i was planning a white build, id do corax white base coat, zenith coat with pure white.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in fi
Chaplain with Hate to Spare







Because it makes it unnecessarily difficult and it takes million layers to get a nice white over black.

Only the insane have strength enough to prosper. Only those who prosper may truly judge what is sane. 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






 Desubot wrote:
 Crimson wrote:
Corax White is infuriating. GW's previous white primer was actually white and I hate that I cannot get it any more.


Its frustrating if you started off with one and changed to another.

if i was planning a white build, id do corax white base coat, zenith coat with pure white.


I think it's better not being pure white. It means you can actually highlight after using it as a base.
   
Made in fi
Chaplain with Hate to Spare






 Jaxler wrote:

I think it's better not being pure white. It means you can actually highlight after using it as a base.

Sure. Though you can apply a light shade over pure white to get some basic shading in and at the same time darken the colour a bit; then you can apply highlights with pure white.

(I'm painting an off white marine army at the moment, and I've tried to steamline the process as much as possible without affecting the quality.)

Only the insane have strength enough to prosper. Only those who prosper may truly judge what is sane. 
   
Made in us
Legendary Master of the Chapter






 Jaxler wrote:
 Desubot wrote:
 Crimson wrote:
Corax White is infuriating. GW's previous white primer was actually white and I hate that I cannot get it any more.


Its frustrating if you started off with one and changed to another.

if i was planning a white build, id do corax white base coat, zenith coat with pure white.


I think it's better not being pure white. It means you can actually highlight after using it as a base.


Well that why i said zenith with pure white. gives it an airbrushed highlight look pretty quickly.

 Unit1126PLL wrote:
 Scott-S6 wrote:
And yet another thread is hijacked for Unit to ask for the same advice, receive the same answers and make the same excuses.

Oh my god I'm becoming martel.
Send help!

 
   
Made in gb
Mekboy Hammerin' Somethin'





Bedford - UK

how about something like the morifactors scheme:
https://www.google.com/search?q=mortifactors&num=100&newwindow=1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjWh8K14-HfAhULKVAKHW8uAGIQ_AUIDigB&biw=1920&bih=948#imgrc=7Dxyh4CvGTkGLM:
maybe change up the black for a deep red, would look unique and pretty sweet

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/01/09 22:54:24


 
   
Made in jp
Longtime Dakkanaut





 Crimson wrote:

Because it makes it unnecessarily difficult and it takes million layers to get a nice white over black.


I've found that black base -> yellowish brown -> sandy yellow -> off white -> white highlight works very well.
   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Dark Angels Predator Pilot




Hanoi, Vietnam.

Jaxler wrote:White isn't hard. You just need to have the technical skill-
-I don't.
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Ambushing Wargor




Baltimore, Maryland

I chose Knights Excelsior as my Stormcast Chamber in Age of Sigmar and I struggled with GW’s white paints for a long time. Almost sprayed them Retributor Gold and gave up on the project. Then I discovered Army Painters Matt White that came in a starter paint set that I bought discounted as an impulse buy. Its been a real game changer for me, its a bit thicker then GW’s whites and seems to dry a bit faster out of the bottle, but its easy to water down, which you’ll be doing any way if you follow The Duncan Code.

Also, GW has a few good tutorials on painting white armor in different styles, like White Scars one way, and my Knights Excelsior another way. The inconsistency of every white that I got of GW’s paints was my biggest frustration, maybe I was doing something wrong, but its much easier for me with the Army Painter brand. I can’t speak to the quality of Army Painter paints as a whole, but I’ve been very satisfied with their white.

"Sometimes the only victory possible is to keep your opponent from winning." - The Emperor, from The Outcast Dead.
"Tell your gods we are coming for them, and that their realms will burn as ours did." -Thostos Bladestorm
 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





Brown works well as a base layer for white.
   
Made in us
The Conquerer






Waiting for my shill money from Spiral Arm Studios

 jeff white wrote:
 Crimson wrote:
Definitely do not use black undercoat for white armour. Use white, bone or light grey.


Why not?


Because you will be able to see the black through the white paint unless you spend a lot of time putting down many many thin layers of white paint to hide it. Paints are all translucent to a degree, meaning that what you put it over will show through in some fashion unless you really lay it on thick. And because it has the biggest contrast, black undercoats show through white paint the most, but it also applies to any lighter colored paint. Thats why its difficult to get white, yellow, and bright reds to look good in general without also priming with that same color.

The unfortunate thing is that black primer is also one of the better primers for painting miniatures faster because your model will already have a lot of shading done. A model that is primed white(or any other bright color) will need you to go back over it with a detail brush to give it black shading in the recesses, and over any places where you'll be painting darker colors(because much like black primer will show through white paint, white primer will show through darker colors too).

This is why its so hard to paint white and have it look good. Plus, shading it is a PITA if you are going for a crisp clean smooth white. Other colors can have a brown or black wash slapped on them without looking dirty, but white doesn't accept black or brown washes well at all unless you are trying to make it look like you've splatted mud all over it. This means that the easiest method of shading a model is not an option if you're going for crisp whites. Instead you'll be doing at least 5-6 layers of white paint going back on the surface after you've washed and shaded it. Its more time consuming than really hard, but you do need very fine brush control to keep things consistent and most people just don't have the patience for that.

Self-proclaimed evil Cat-person. Dues Ex Felines

Cato Sicarius, after force feeding Captain Ventris a copy of the Codex Astartes for having the audacity to play Deathwatch, chokes to death on his own D-baggery after finding Calgar assembling his new Eldar army.

MURICA!!! IN SPESS!!! 
   
Made in ca
Slaanesh Chosen Marine Riding a Fiend





ZZ9 Plural Z Alpha

Jaxler wrote:White isn't hard. You just need to have the technical skill required to work around the problem.


That's quite a silly thing to say, FWIW. You might as well say it isn't hard to represent yourself in court, you just need to know the substantive law, memorize the Rules of Civil Procedure, know how to conduct a cross-examination and reply and know how to talk to judges.

Nothing's hard if you already have specialized knowledge/skills.

--------------------------------------------------------

I would prime dark grey and then drybrush Ceramite White, 'cause I'm lazy and the result would be acceptable.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/01/10 06:21:59


Pro-Pain and Pro-Pain Accessories


The Fall of Kronstaat IV - Война Народная The People's War
The Plog - A [NSFW] Slaanesh Soup with Red Army Seasoning
The Fluff - Волшебная Сказка A Fairy Tale
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






 Excommunicatus wrote:
Jaxler wrote:White isn't hard. You just need to have the technical skill required to work around the problem.


That's quite a silly thing to say, FWIW. You might as well say it isn't hard to represent yourself in court, you just need to know the substantive law, memorize the Rules of Civil Procedure, know how to conduct a cross-examination and reply and know how to talk to judges.

Nothing's hard if you already have specialized knowledge/skills.

--------------------------------------------------------

I would prime dark grey and then drybrush Ceramite White, 'cause I'm lazy and the result would be acceptable.


The only reason why white appears to be hard is because to those who only base coat it's annoying and time consuming, and those who have not looked into how to highlight it will find it to be a trap to work with.

I say it's easy because it only presents a knowledge based challenge, not a dexterity one, or time based one. If you can highlight yellow pink or red then you've all the skills required to swiftly work with white without it being harder.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2019/01/10 07:01:42


 
   
Made in gb
Lead-Footed Trukkboy Driver




London UK

The paints don't help either. Ceramite white has so much pigment in it that it hardens or dries super quick. I need to find a white with enough pigment in it to not need 7 coats but also doesn't dry too quickly because I paint infrequently.

Whit scar is a bit bluish to my eyes.
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut






 Jaxler wrote:
The only reason why white appears to be hard is because to those who only base coat it's annoying and time consuming, and those who have not looked into how to highlight it will find it to be a trap to work with.


No, the reason white appears to be hard is that it is hard. White (including off-white/bone/etc) gaming paints have poor coverage and are a lot harder to deal with compared to, say, painting blue Ultramarines. It doesn't matter how much knowledge you have if your paints require a lot more layers and are a lot more prone to having visible brush strokes/chalky textures/etc. The problem is 100% technical, not artistic.

There is no such thing as a hobby without politics. "Leave politics at the door" is itself a political statement, an endorsement of the status quo and an attempt to silence dissenting voices. 
   
Made in gb
Stern Iron Priest with Thrall Bodyguard



UK

White and yellow are by far the worst colours to base a paint scheme on, any mistake at all sees you putting in way more work to correct that reds, blues or greens.

I hate even doing the one shoulder pad in yellow for my wolves.
   
Made in fi
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Once I learned to not use pure white as base colour but only as last highlight it became easy.

“Nothing has a definite nature, so people cannot be purely evil. Even so-called evil people will aspire to follow a moral path when they feel a sense of community.” – Kukai

~12200 pts
5150 pts
~3200 pts Knights
 
   
Made in jp
Longtime Dakkanaut





 Peregrine wrote:
 Jaxler wrote:
The only reason why white appears to be hard is because to those who only base coat it's annoying and time consuming, and those who have not looked into how to highlight it will find it to be a trap to work with.


No, the reason white appears to be hard is that it is hard. White (including off-white/bone/etc) gaming paints have poor coverage and are a lot harder to deal with compared to, say, painting blue Ultramarines. It doesn't matter how much knowledge you have if your paints require a lot more layers and are a lot more prone to having visible brush strokes/chalky textures/etc. The problem is 100% technical, not artistic.


And yet, when I've painted white over black in the past, I've done it in five thin layers, which is about how many I usually put on regardless of color anyway.
   
Made in fr
Longtime Dakkanaut




You can paint white over black, sure, but why would you? If it's your mini's main color (and for a space marine, the armor color is like 80% of the model), then it's a lot easier to start with a very light base.

Anyway, I think the OP's question wasn't about the technical aspects, but rather about the color combinations that he could use.
To choose what type of off-white you want to use, I'd first consider the base and the amount of weathering you want to do. If you picture your marines in a desert, with lots of weathering (paint chips, dust marks etc.), then a cold-blue white would look out of place. You would need to use a more yellowish one, maybe a very light tan. However, if you want to put them in a snow field, then a colder white would work best.
   
 
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