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Anyone use it?

I haven't varnished any of my miniatures, but I have now fully painted 800 points of Ultramarines and 1000 points of Chaos Knights.

Should I be protecting all my hard work? I've played plenty of games and haven't noticed any wear, yet...

If you game a lot, I sincerely recommend varnishing your models, it'll stop damage in the long run and natural oils from your fingers won't rub paint off.

I've only recently matte varnished my Grav Tanks and even playing a few games without varnish has rubbed some paint off so they're a good bit more durable.

I wouldn't use GW's spray varnish, get Testors sprays or go for something else depending on the finish you want.

nothing wrong with the Muni, but it is satin finish. (semi gloss)
if you dont like that you have to find a different varnish.

sounds as you are new to the whole prossess so i will give a small heads-up.
matt varnish removes the metallic effect on metal colours, but has no negative effects on non metalic paint other then removing the paint shine that some times looks unnatural on minis.
gloss creates a super shiney reflective surface.

 FrozenDwarf wrote:
nothing wrong with the Muni, but it is satin finish. (semi gloss)
if you dont like that you have to find a different varnish.

sounds as you are new to the whole prossess so i will give a small heads-up.
matt varnish removes the metallic effect on metal colours, but has no negative effects on non metalic paint other then removing the paint shine that some times looks unnatural on minis.
gloss creates a super shiney reflective surface.

Thanks, so is a satin varnish a good compromise?

No you want a matte finish. Matt doesn't remove metallic finishes. It makes then very slightly duller, but it won't turn your slivers into light greys. If anything you want a slightly duller metal for realism, unless of course you want a bright elf ish type steel. Satins and gloss should really only be used for specific areas. Gemstones for example.

This is the only spray vanish that GW sell, so I'm assuming they think it's suitable for use on all models? Here's Peachy's video on it:

There are many other different brands providing varnish though. I liked humbrols enamel matte spray varnish.

I had a chat to the guys in my local GW today and they showed me some of the miniatures in the cabinets that had been sprayed with varnish. They looked good so I may well give it a go.

Just know that GW varnish is just rebranded from some other company and marked up by 100%. If price isn’t an issue, go for it. I have used Testors Dullcote for years with great effect. Hum broil is also good

GW's also had consistent issues with their varnish frosting up, being very sensitive to atmospheric conditions and how it's applied.

When I used spray varnishes I used Testor's Dullcote exclusively. Cheap, matte, never had it ruin a model. Now I use an airbrush to apply varnish, and in the long run it pays for itself, but there's a fair bit of up-front cost.

 Brother Castor wrote:
I had a chat to the guys in my local GW today and they showed me some of the miniatures in the cabinets that had been sprayed with varnish. They looked good so I may well give it a go.

There is nothing wrong with the GW munitorum varnish, I have used it recently on 3 full 2000 point armies with no frosting issues or any issues.

I have also used a cheaper Matt spray, and IMO, the GW spray was more matt then this other one.

I think the finish is fine, it does dull metal a bit, also if you use blood for the blood god paint, basically varnish first, then apply that on top, becuase varnish will completely ruin the affect of that particular paint.

Also when you use it, warm that can up first, either put it in your pocket, stuff it down your tshirt or something for half an hour, and then before you use it, shake it, a lot, i mean literally a good full 5 minutes of shaking it all different ways.

Spray a light coat from about 20 CM away, glancing the can accross the model when you spray, dont spray directly at it, if you get what I mean.

If you have a garage, or indoor space that you can spray, that is ideal. I wouldnt do it outside on a very humid day.

The bove may be way over the top, but, you cant go wrong following those steps and as I say, 3 lots of 2000 point armies, one is a horde tyranid army also and I ahve had no issues.

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
No you want a matte finish. Matt doesn't remove metallic finishes. It makes then very slightly duller, but it won't turn your slivers into light greys. If anything you want a slightly duller metal for realism, unless of course you want a bright elf ish type steel. Satins and gloss should really only be used for specific areas. Gemstones for example.

3 different matt varnishes over 5 different test models in a temp range from 15-25C, the metallic paint effect was completely gone when using matt varnishes.
and if i dident want the shiney metallic finish, why would i even use metallics in the first place?? if a metal part shines in 1:1 scale, it shall shine in 1:60 scale.

for me that leads to the following conclusion: dont use matt varnish on models that has metallic paint.

I've moved onto airbrushing varnish nowadays, which seems to me much easier and more reliable than rattlecans. I've already fallen in love with AK Interactive Ultra Matte.

 FrozenDwarf wrote:

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
No you want a matte finish. Matt doesn't remove metallic finishes. It makes then very slightly duller, but it won't turn your slivers into light greys. If anything you want a slightly duller metal for realism, unless of course you want a bright elf ish type steel. Satins and gloss should really only be used for specific areas. Gemstones for example.

3 different matt varnishes over 5 different test models in a temp range from 15-25C, the metallic paint effect was completely gone when using matt varnishes.
and if i dident want the shiney metallic finish, why would i even use metallics in the first place?? if a metal part shines in 1:1 scale, it shall shine in 1:60 scale.

for me that leads to the following conclusion: dont use matt varnish on models that has metallic paint.

Any varnish is going to alter the surface finish to an extent, but my experience is the same as QAR - metallic paints still keep most of their metallic shine after varnishing. I'd put that down to the fact that they get their shine from the metallic flake in the paint rather than the surface finish, and it's why I've always thought any suggestions to paint gloss over the metallics to keep them shiny doesn't really work as intended. It's a different kind of shiny.

Though having said that I have recently bought a bottle of Vallejo 26.657 "Metal Varnish" to go with the Metal Color paints, and it does describe it as gloss on the bottle. I haven't used it yet but I assumed it was slightly metallic itself rather than glossy, but I guess I'll find out when I use it.

 Bellerophon wrote:
I've moved onto airbrushing varnish nowadays, which seems to me much easier and more reliable than rattlecans. I've already fallen in love with AK Interactive Ultra Matte.

 FrozenDwarf wrote:

 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
No you want a matte finish. Matt doesn't remove metallic finishes. It makes then very slightly duller, but it won't turn your slivers into light greys. If anything you want a slightly duller metal for realism, unless of course you want a bright elf ish type steel. Satins and gloss should really only be used for specific areas. Gemstones for example.

3 different matt varnishes over 5 different test models in a temp range from 15-25C, the metallic paint effect was completely gone when using matt varnishes.
and if i dident want the shiney metallic finish, why would i even use metallics in the first place?? if a metal part shines in 1:1 scale, it shall shine in 1:60 scale.

for me that leads to the following conclusion: dont use matt varnish on models that has metallic paint.

Any varnish is going to alter the surface finish to an extent, but my experience is the same as QAR - metallic paints still keep most of their metallic shine after varnishing. I'd put that down to the fact that they get their shine from the metallic flake in the paint rather than the surface finish, and it's why I've always thought any suggestions to paint gloss over the metallics to keep them shiny doesn't really work as intended. It's a different kind of shiny.

Though having said that I have recently bought a bottle of Vallejo 26.657 "Metal Varnish" to go with the Metal Color paints, and it does describe it as gloss on the bottle. I haven't used it yet but I assumed it was slightly metallic itself rather than glossy, but I guess I'll find out when I use it.

I fully agree with this statement.
You really want a matt finish because a satin or glossy finish will screw up your highlights and shadows and it gives a plastic "unnatural" look. Every time I see a marine in glossy finish
I die a bit inside but apparently marines in a grimdark of 40k universe polish their armor before going into battle.

Metallic paints are just too bright in their original state especially for 40k. Metallic out of the pot look artificial IMO dull finish is much more realistic.

So I did a test application to my First Strike miniatures...

These have always been my go-to test miniatures. Firstly for getting back into the game, then learning to paint, and now testing spray varnish. Unlike my other miniatures they also just rattle around in the box rather than being stored in proper cases with foam trays so varnishing seems like a good idea.

Whilst the Munitorum Varnish went on smoothly, there is considerable frosting - a creamy appearance to the colours now. I'd say the temperature was at the lower end of the range but still within the recommended limits on the can. It's okay for these models but I won't be using it on my actual Ultramarines or Chaos Knights armies.

The only paint damage I've experienced so far is on War Dog autocannon barrel shields when folding the arms down for transport, so I'm just going to give them a coat of 'Ardcoat for protection followed by a coat of Lahmiam Medium to take away the shine (just like when applying transfers to SM pauldrons). That way they'll be protected but there won't be any frosting.