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Hey guys, I picked up a forgeworld titan from my buddy and decided to Nurgle it up. I'm not great with green stuff but I think it looks ok so far. I still have a bunch of chains, the maw from the arm of the glottkin on the front of the cockpit, and other stuff I want to put on it. Tell what you think and what I should work on. The base will have a wrecked rhino/parts of a wreck rhino, ruined city, plague bearers/nurglings running around. Don't mind the paint job, I'll be repainting it in the Death Guard scheme once everything is stuck on lol. Thanks in advance!

I like the corruption spots. I think it could use a few more.

In terms of somewhat easy conversion, I can’t remember if Nurgle daemons have cloven feet or not? Hooves? If so, and I could be totally off here, I think that would be a good addition.

The old Lucius pattern, nice find. I assume it's all glued up? The pose is rather static, it would be nicer with a big stride forward.

The nurgle corruption looks good. I think, like greatbigtree said, it could use a bit more, but I think the paintjob will be a good chance to pull it together and make more 'transitions' between the relatively non-corrupted bits and the really nurgled parts. At the minute it's a sharp transition. Get a load of rust, grime and weathering effects on there and it'll help tie it all together.

Yeah my buddy had it glued pretty tight, but his legs kinda pulled closer together so he kinda looked like he had to use the bathroom lol. I was able to pull the one leg over a bit and I'm fine with it as long as it stands flat.

I plan on adding more corruption spots, but I figured I'd call it a night. I also wanted to get a little feedback before I moved forward to far. I was going to add chains and dozer blades along the top. Probably exhaust stacks from the chaos knight kit to the back, but they might be too small to look right. As for a hooved foot, it sounds really cool, but I'm not a good sculptor so I wouldn't even know how to begin lol.

Since I plan to paint it in the current Death Guard scheme what should the base color on the corruption spots be to look right?

Your GS corruption looks good, I like where this is going.
However, all your corruption is going "out", it's above the sillouette of the model. The best (in my book) Nurgle conversions include corruptions going "in" as well. Don't be afraid to dig into the model and add more GS work.
Right now you have growth on top of armor, to take it to the next level do some pulled back/ blown off/ rusted away armor pieces with corruption beneath.
Good luck! Will be following and excited to see what you do.

PourSpelur wrote:
Your GS corruption looks good, I like where this is going.
However, all your corruption is going "out", it's above the sillouette of the model. The best (in my book) Nurgle conversions include corruptions going "in" as well. Don't be afraid to dig into the model and add more GS work.
Right now you have growth on top of armor, to take it to the next level do some pulled back/ blown off/ rusted away armor pieces with corruption beneath.
Good luck! Will be following and excited to see what you do.

That was something else I was thinking about doing was roughing up some of those sharp edges. Dig into the model? As in use a dremel? I had originally thought of chopping up bits of plastic and sticking it in the green stuff around the horns to make it look as if the horn burst through the armor. I could try some of that in some areas to give the dug in and bubbling out look.

Yeah, exactly!
Dremmel is a great tool for this. Wear a good dust mask and clean with a wet wipe, resin dust is pretty rough on the lungs. The plasticard armor panels around the horn is a great idea.
The ball attachment to the Dremmel can give a really neat, hammered metal effect to armor as well. Lots of really small divots on a panel gives a good texture to work with paints and washes. Google "Svartmetal, Nurgle" and check out the he images page. Guy used to post pretty frequently on the Nurgle forum that I've totally forgotten the name of and has some absolutely stellar tutorials.
Dig em up, worth every second.

I would love to see some love to the flat empty plains.
Does not have to be GreenStuff, just something to beat up the surface.
Of course I do not know how you plan to paint it, because the weathering paint job alone should be enough.

What do you think of some, pealing pieces of plates in areas (wrinkled pieces of card-stock or plasticard) ?
and
Have you looked into using cracking paint? That might be the bee's knees! And will blend in your GS work into the rest of the mech nicely.

Added more green stuff corruption, used a file to add some knicks, and added a few more things here and there.

How's this look for the 'bursting through' look?

Bursting actually looks very cool!

If you want to take it to the next level then try this.
I always like to blend things like a character into the environment, or a detail into the whole.
With the idea of blending things in, What if there are plates that bulge out around the burst, to blend in the burst into the flat surface!

Hope the picture makes sense

I definitely see what you mean. Hmmmm I have a lot of rhino top hatches and doors I could cut up for that, but I think just using green stuff to get that look might work better than just slapping more plates on. Either way I need more green stuff. I've already burned through a GW pack and a Army Painter pack of the stuff lmao

 l0k1 wrote:
I definitely see what you mean. Hmmmm I have a lot of rhino top hatches and doors I could cut up for that, but I think just using green stuff to get that look might work better than just slapping more plates on. Either way I need more green stuff. I've already burned through a GW pack and a Army Painter pack of the stuff lmao

Already ran out? Oh, you are working on a Titan, that makes sense! lolz
Rhino top hatches are way too thick for what I had in mind. I was thinking more of thin, like 1 mm thick plates that wont be too hard to blend into the flat surfaces.
Think of old paint water damage, how it peals off and blows up, but is very very thin.

I don't know, just some ideas for inspiration

These guys are paper thin, great for bending around curves. Would work for this with a layer of GS underneath to thicken it up.
https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/plain-opaque-white-polystrene-sheets/products/9009-005-13mm-plain-opaque-white-polystyrene-sheet

For lifted armor, I'd probably jump up to something still thin and manageable but a little more heft, maybe this guy.

https://evergreenscalemodels.com/collections/plain-opaque-white-polystrene-sheets/products/copy-of-9010-010-25mm-plain-opaque-white-polystyrene-sheet

Also have a bundle with 3 different thickness sheets.

Quick GS tip, the GW stuff is the same kneadtite epoxy everyone else sells, just more money for less volume. I'm a big fan of Magic Sculpt, real similar in use and waaaay cheaper. Milliput is super cheap as well but doesn't sculpt as well. The biggest selling point for Milliput, in my book, is it's water soluble. Say you want to sculpt on that raised armor. Lay down a couple sausages and smooth them out. Now wet a brush with water and drag from high to low, dab dry, repeat 20 quick times and let dry. The transition from Titan's original armor to the Milliput will be so smooth it's indistinguishable from being part of the original sculpt.