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Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





It is worth doing a temperature tower to optimize the nozzle temperature for your PLA. I can post the Gcode for an ender 3 one if you want but you should make your own.
There are test models to help with other tuning. It is also worth tuning you extruder as over/under extruding makes a big difference. A blog called matt's hub has a good guide - google 'extruder calibration matt's hub' and follow the easy instructions.

Layer height makes a difference to detail - all printers have a magic number based on the stepper and the z rod - for ender 3 it is 0.04, so layer heights in multiples of 0.04 are going to be more consistent - i use 0.08 for figs and either 0.08 or 0.12 for vehicles

when using supports - try to angle the model to use 'from build plate only' and if possible lean it back.
Zigzag supports are generally best - tick connect zigzag - it makes them very stable but still removable 15% density is what i use

I have set my support z distance (support top) to twice my layer height (0.16)
Use support interface - it will make a layer at the top (and bottom if support everywhere) that is easier to peal off. I am using the grid interface pattern at 100% unless for large flat items

This sounds a lot but the extrruder calibration is a one off, the temp tower only when you change source/colour/type of pla (not new reel of same stuff) And the supports once you find what works for your printer you are off. If you want expert advice this discord is the place to go: https://discord.gg/x23ZZXNy

Zoromer knows an unnatural amount about printing and people there are happy to help - even if it is just to show off they can do stuff!
 
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