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So I was just given an ender 3 pro as a starter printer present, and I tried to make a Space monk, and it....failed horribly. The supports envelope the model and I end up having to cut it away with pliers or needlenode snips, and I end up slicing the model, or chopping off an arm.

Is there any tips for more easily doing supports for figurines? Or using Cura?

Thank you!

Simple geometric shapes (vehicles, replacement parts) and stuff that requires minimal support are by far the easiest things to print. There is no good way to just up and print a whole army unless you're prepared to do a lot of careful slicing and cleanup work.

What, exactly, are you trying to print?

FezzikDaBullgryn wrote:
So I was just given an ender 3 pro as a starter printer present, and I tried to make a Space monk, and it....failed horribly. The supports envelope the model and I end up having to cut it away with pliers or needlenode snips, and I end up slicing the model, or chopping off an arm.

Is there any tips for more easily doing supports for figurines? Or using Cura?

Thank you!

Ender 3 pro is an SLA printer, correct? Plastic filament?

Those are a lot better suited for terrain printing than models IIRC, I doubt even if you supported perfectly you'd be able to get a model that wouldn't be totally obvious as 3d printed out of a filament printer.

PLA's aren't good for geometries with negative spaces embedded between solids (like the space between the bolter & chest).

You'll have better luck splitting up the model into multipart kit.

Right now I am just trying to just do DnD models, so like monsters, daemons, knights, monsters, terrain, etc.

the_scotsman wrote:

FezzikDaBullgryn wrote:
So I was just given an ender 3 pro as a starter printer present, and I tried to make a Space monk, and it....failed horribly. The supports envelope the model and I end up having to cut it away with pliers or needlenode snips, and I end up slicing the model, or chopping off an arm.

Is there any tips for more easily doing supports for figurines? Or using Cura?

Thank you!

Ender 3 pro is an SLA printer, correct? Plastic filament?

Those are a lot better suited for terrain printing than models IIRC, I doubt even if you supported perfectly you'd be able to get a model that wouldn't be totally obvious as 3d printed out of a filament printer.

This used to be true of FDM printers (SLA printers are resin, FDM are the plastic filament printers), but now you can get pretty darn close to resin-printed quality with them. Especially if you switch the stock nozzle to a 0.2mm nozzle. I have a few minis that I have printed on my Ender 3 V2 that people couldn't believe were 3D printed.

I have an Ender 3 Pro (FDM) printer and do love it, but it is not the best printer for small minis.

However, take a look at this thread I created awhile ago before I moved to my resin printer when printing minis in FDM:
https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/779665.page

Make sure to have good infil on any smaller models 30%+, if they have really skinny parts 70%, which should help breaking away the supports. Also the most recent (that I have downloaded) Cura settings has a gap distance between support and model. I forget what I have mine set too, but that has helped with breaking the supports off.

Happy printing. I got my Ender3 almost a year ago . Terrain is king.

It is worth doing a temperature tower to optimize the nozzle temperature for your PLA. I can post the Gcode for an ender 3 one if you want but you should make your own.
There are test models to help with other tuning. It is also worth tuning you extruder as over/under extruding makes a big difference. A blog called matt's hub has a good guide - google 'extruder calibration matt's hub' and follow the easy instructions.

Layer height makes a difference to detail - all printers have a magic number based on the stepper and the z rod - for ender 3 it is 0.04, so layer heights in multiples of 0.04 are going to be more consistent - i use 0.08 for figs and either 0.08 or 0.12 for vehicles

when using supports - try to angle the model to use 'from build plate only' and if possible lean it back.
Zigzag supports are generally best - tick connect zigzag - it makes them very stable but still removable 15% density is what i use

I have set my support z distance (support top) to twice my layer height (0.16)
Use support interface - it will make a layer at the top (and bottom if support everywhere) that is easier to peal off. I am using the grid interface pattern at 100% unless for large flat items

This sounds a lot but the extrruder calibration is a one off, the temp tower only when you change source/colour/type of pla (not new reel of same stuff) And the supports once you find what works for your printer you are off. If you want expert advice this discord is the place to go: https://discord.gg/x23ZZXNy

Zoromer knows an unnatural amount about printing and people there are happy to help - even if it is just to show off they can do stuff!