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Made in us
Whiteshield Conscript Trooper





I am making a dark angels detachment.
I bought the corresponding primer for the power armor.
It is angel green primer from army painter.

My question is.
Am I okay to prime a model ( or several ) and then go straight into highlights and shading? Or am I missing something that is critical or taboo ?
Are their any do's and dont's to this?
   
Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut





Oh Canada!

You can go directly from primer to highlighting / shading, but most experienced painters will recommend not to do so.

The main reason being a rattlecan paint colour and finish will not 100% match a painted layer (no matter what it says on the can), so attempting to fix any mistakes later on can leave obvious patches. The easy workaround for that is to slap on a thin layer of brushed paint over the coloured primer. Coloured primer is still very valuable as it will save you a lot of time vs. working up to DA green from a white or black instead.

It'll take an extra couple of minutes per model, but it will prevent headaches later on down the road.
   
Made in us
Whiteshield Conscript Trooper





Thank you this answers everything ☺️
   
Made in us
The Marine Standing Behind Marneus Calgar





Upstate, New York

I find when priming with a rattlecan that coverage is never 100% even. So rather then keeping on coats of spray until every nook and cranny is covered (and maybe ending up with it thick in places) I give it a good, but not overzealous spray, and make sure I have a solid base coat on with a brush.

   
Made in gb
Stalwart Ultramarine Tactical Marine





Stevenage, UK

The Army Painter Rattlecans and Pots do a pretty good job of colour matching, it's always going to be a struggle to get an EXACT match but they come very close with most.

Especially with Dark Angels my approach would be to get an all over black undercoat, then any missed areas from the green will most likely be in the deepest recesses giving an element of zenithal shading.

From here I'd do a quick patch test on one of the models to check how well the pot and can match, assuming you're happy with it matching then don't worry too much about re-coating.

As you're already planning for a fair amount of rattle can work, my next step would be a light coat of gloss varnish before shading it with inks/washes as this will help them to get and stay in the recesses giving you sharper lines between panels.

From here highlight in your preferred way, for a good "tabletop standard" I'd go for one subtle highlight followed by a sharper edge highlight on the upper surfaces.

Rik
   
 
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