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Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka




Just getting back into the hobby for the hundredth time :p I am tired of not being able to buy what GW is "offering". I was about to buy their latest box set (even forget the name now) for the awesome minis to build and paint and now I can't. I see now there are better prints from other artists now and they seem even better what GW is doing now. So I am looking to get a 3d printer. I was going to get the Ender 3, but I don't want terrain at the moment and see that Ender 3 is not really good for minis. So I am looking toward resin now.

I was thinking of getting the Phorzen Sonic 4K mini printer. I have read good things about it. Read some not so good things about it. What are your thoughts of the printer?

I almost bought it until I saw that shipping and custom fees are added. I thought Amazon Prime was free shipping. Guess coming from another part of the world is not free shipping.

Now that it's almost adding an additional $100 for shipping and customs, so instead of $500 Canadian it will be $600 Canadian and that is still with no resin bottle. So I believe I will be paying almost $700 Canadian (taxes included and rounding off).

So I started looking for something cheaper. I see Anycubic Mono SE and the Elegoo Mars 2 printer. I can't tell if they are just as good since some people claim you can't tell the difference. Can you tell the difference from 2K to 4K? Should I go for Elegoo or Anycubic? If so which one and why?

If I go with Anycubic or Elegoo the price might be cut in half but will I be loosing out? Will a 4K screen last longer than a 2K screen? I believe the Phrozen Sonic 4K mini has 3000 hours compared to the 2000 hours for the other 2K printers.

I have tried Google for a few weeks to see the differences and some of them seem quite major and the Phrozen Sonic 4K mini wins out, but then there seems awesome prints from Elegoo Mars 2 or was it the pro? Can't really tell how good the Anycubic Mono SE is.

Any tips or suggestions would be really appreciated.

Agies Grimm:The "Learn to play, bro" mentality is mostly just a way for someone to try to shame you by implying that their metaphorical nerd-wiener is bigger than yours. Which, ironically, I think nerds do even more vehemently than jocks.

Everything is made up and the points don't matter. 40K or Who's Line is it Anyway?

Auticus wrote: Or in summation: its ok to exploit shoddy points because those are rules and gamers exist to find rules loopholes (they are still "legal"), but if the same force can be composed without structure, it emotionally feels "wrong".  
   
Made in gb
Yu Jing Martial Arts Ninja




North Wales

First thing that you need to decide on is "how large a build volume do I need?"

If you're okay with what is currently the regular size build volume, you have options like the Anycubic Photon Mono or the SE version of it or the Elegoo Mars Pro 2. The latest and greatest from Anycubic and Elegoo have larger build plates, but as I wasn't interested in them, I didn't put the effort into researching them. They have higher resolutions, but then, they have to in order to maintain the detail of the smaller ones.

There are 4k resolution screens on smaller ones, but I'm very happy with the results that I'm getting with my printer... but then again, I was perfectly happy with my HDTV until I got a 4k TV and watched Finding Dory on it. So, don't go relying on my judgement...

I looked at the Photon Mono, decided that I definitely wanted extraction fans, so then looked at the Elegoo Mars. After that, I decided on the Photon Mono SE, because it had a couple of extra bells and whistles, but also didn't have a plastic bucket for a lid. Print wise, I'm fairly sure that all of my options would have produced similar quality prints. I've only printed in 50 micron layers, which isn't the lowest that these things will do and I'm still super impressed with that. It's the learning process that is the trick - something that you have to do no matter what machine you get.
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

A few things to note

1) Phrozen has been releasing some new Z axis connection and build plate connector parts to the market. People who have had replacement parts sent from Phrozen have had them and its presumed that they'll start appearing in newer released units.

2) When ordering keep in mind where the order is coming from - some traders on Amazon are going to be in your country, others might be overseas and direct from the firm. If its the latter that might be why you're seeing such a high postage charge. So do some hunting and see if on amazon or elsewhere; there's a more local supplier

3) A 2K and 4K screen will last the same length of time if they are the same type. Ergo mono or RGB. RGB will last a lot less long and have longer exposures per layer; whilst monoscreens will last longer and print a lot faster.
The SM4K is mono

Personally for me, 3D printing needed to be high resolution so at the time the SM4K was the only real optoin. Now there's apparently a new Mars coming out with a 4K screen on a 6inch build plate which has roughly the same resolution as the SM4K (I think its like 2um difference)/.

A Blog in Miniature

The Swarm Arises

Do you ever notice, sometimes, there's an extra post? 
   
Made in fi
Shas'ui with Bonding Knife






I have also been researching this topic a bit, and in the end I came to the conclusion that I personally want to still be on the fence for a year or two.

4K mono printers is where it's at for the quality of minis I'd be interested in, and not many 4K small build plate models in the market just yet.

YMMV as usual
   
Made in us
Is 'Eavy Metal Calling?





Affton, MO. USA

I’m having issues with the AnyCubic I ordered. Not technical issues, more of the company has idiots in customer service and fulfillment. Ordered the Mono with wash and cure machine 2.0 and 1Kg of resin. Took a day longer than stated for shipping (I’d let that slide), but when it arrived they only shipped the wash and cure machine . I messaged them as there’s is no phone number to call and they said they were shipping the rest. Couple days before I get a shipping notice,and then the printer shows up, no resin . Another exchange of Emails and now the resin is on back order for two weeks . I tell them to send me any colors, they can eat the price difference, then I get a shipping notice that the resin is on its way. The tracking states that it is ready, but still has not gone to the carrier yet.

I should have gone with the Ender resin printer, Ender has not let me down yet.

Sorry, I know it’s not what you really want to hear, but it should be known how much hassle AnyCubic has been.

LOL, Theo your mind is an amazing place, never change.-camkierhi 9/19/13
I cant believe theo is right.. damn. -comradepanda 9/26/13
None of the strange ideas we had about you involved your sexual orientation..........-Monkeytroll 12/10/13

I'd put you on ignore for that comment, if I could...Alpharius 2/11/14 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka




 tauist wrote:
I have also been researching this topic a bit, and in the end I came to the conclusion that I personally want to still be on the fence for a year or two.

4K mono printers is where it's at for the quality of minis I'd be interested in, and not many 4K small build plate models in the market just yet.

YMMV as usual


I was thinking to wait for bigger and cheaper. Then after doing some research, sometimes going bigger is not better. Bigger it is, the less resolution. So for mini printing, I think and please correct me if I am wrong, a smaller foot print would be sharper and clearer than a huge foot print at same 4K.

So not sure if waiting would make a difference. Cheaper yes. Much cheaper? To save $200, for me, I rather get now. If that $200 savings come with bigger footprint with same sharp resolution, then yes I might wait if I can't find a good deal now.


For all who commented, thank you. I appreciate the help. Still undecided.

Agies Grimm:The "Learn to play, bro" mentality is mostly just a way for someone to try to shame you by implying that their metaphorical nerd-wiener is bigger than yours. Which, ironically, I think nerds do even more vehemently than jocks.

Everything is made up and the points don't matter. 40K or Who's Line is it Anyway?

Auticus wrote: Or in summation: its ok to exploit shoddy points because those are rules and gamers exist to find rules loopholes (they are still "legal"), but if the same force can be composed without structure, it emotionally feels "wrong".  
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

3D printing is moving fast enough that if you're waiting for the next big then you'll be on the fence for years. Sometimes you've just got to dip your toes in.

You are correct, the same resolution of screen at a larger print size, will yield a lower overall resolution of print.


I've been very happy with the quality out of my SM4K in terms of the clarity and sharpness of the prints and fine details. I think for fine detail a 4K 6inch buildplate (or there abouts) and thus getting around 35um (I think the new 4K Mars 3 is 37um which isn't much different) is the best thing right now.

A Blog in Miniature

The Swarm Arises

Do you ever notice, sometimes, there's an extra post? 
   
Made in de
Regular Dakkanaut




Berlin

Most printers in that price range are based on the same series from an oem manufacturer. The output quality with the same technical data will be basically the same. For anything 28mm miniature like the xy resolution should be 50µm or better. There are basically two ranges. One around 50 and one around 30µm xy resolution. I have printers of both ranges. You only see a difference when you take the model up and inspect it. There is no noticeable difference for a playing piece. The reason why a 50µm might be interesting is build size. A 4k 50µm printer will allow you to print tanks and flyers without too much hassle. Regardless of resolution a mono display is a must. An RGB LCD has no technical advantage. The stability of the Z-Axis is important. For casing, vat, buildplate etc. I prefer metal parts over plastic. But "all metal" models are usually much more expensive. I wouldn't recommend any single manufacturer. Having said that customer support and availability of printer, resin and spares are worth to be considered. The more I experience and read about 3D printers the more it seems to me that in the consumer price segment the printer quality comes down to the printer you get. You might have a great experience with a printer model which sucks for somebody else. I have good experiences with EPAX and B9. Ok experience with Phrozen and bad experience with Uniz.
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka




Whelp. There goes buying anything this weekend. Wife just spent most of the money. So more time for more researching if there is a bright spot to all this.

Was looking at a a Form 1 and a Form 1+ for $500 Canadian for both. Form 1 missing a vat plate. Hate to buy used. Would have to buy an Ender 3 just to make vat plate lol.

Agies Grimm:The "Learn to play, bro" mentality is mostly just a way for someone to try to shame you by implying that their metaphorical nerd-wiener is bigger than yours. Which, ironically, I think nerds do even more vehemently than jocks.

Everything is made up and the points don't matter. 40K or Who's Line is it Anyway?

Auticus wrote: Or in summation: its ok to exploit shoddy points because those are rules and gamers exist to find rules loopholes (they are still "legal"), but if the same force can be composed without structure, it emotionally feels "wrong".  
   
Made in fi
Shas'ui with Bonding Knife






Davor wrote:
 tauist wrote:
I have also been researching this topic a bit, and in the end I came to the conclusion that I personally want to still be on the fence for a year or two.

4K mono printers is where it's at for the quality of minis I'd be interested in, and not many 4K small build plate models in the market just yet.

YMMV as usual


I was thinking to wait for bigger and cheaper. Then after doing some research, sometimes going bigger is not better. Bigger it is, the less resolution. So for mini printing, I think and please correct me if I am wrong, a smaller foot print would be sharper and clearer than a huge foot print at same 4K.

So not sure if waiting would make a difference. Cheaper yes. Much cheaper? To save $200, for me, I rather get now. If that $200 savings come with bigger footprint with same sharp resolution, then yes I might wait if I can't find a good deal now.


For all who commented, thank you. I appreciate the help. Still undecided.


I specifically want a 4K mono with a small plate for that reason. A large plate is not going to increase the reso of small minis in any significant way.

And with only 1 or 2 4K monos out there with a small plate, I'd rather wait until all the big manufacturers come out with their version of one. I'm sure this will happen very soon.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/06/07 14:30:35


 
   
Made in us
Shadowy Grot Kommittee Memba






Personally, I only have experience with the photon mono, but I've been absolutely in love with it. Both quality wise and maintenance wise though I have gotten a couple of third party replacement parts to replace the resin vat, which kind of has an "Iphone-ish" feature where you can replace the fep very quickly/easily but only by buying an expensive prebuilt replacement part from Anycubic.

I don't have any other accessories/bells and whistles, but I've printed about 10 liters of resin worth of minis and so far I've had to replace....

lets see....

....two feps, clean resin off the screen once (screen's still kicking just fine), and I had to put down some new tape around the screen. feels pretty solid for 10 months of very heavy use.

"I can't believe all these tryhard WAACs out there just care about winning all the time when it's supposed to be a game for fun!!!!!!! Also here's my 27 page essay on why marines are OP and Orkz should get a bunch of OP rules so I can win more games

-the_scotsman"

-ERJAK 
   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran





My crossroads now is: 1) do I get a small form mono printer for minis, or 2) do I get a larger format resin printer and toss my Ender 3 onto Craigslist.

My Ender is being so temperamental right now that the idea of a printer that could do both minis and terrain (that didn't take days to print) is getting very attractive.
   
Made in gb
Wise Ethereal with Bodyguard







Resin seems like an awfully expensive way to do scenery though.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka




tauist wrote:

I specifically want a 4K mono with a small plate for that reason. A large plate is not going to increase the reso of small minis in any significant way.

And with only 1 or 2 4K monos out there with a small plate, I'd rather wait until all the big manufacturers come out with their version of one. I'm sure this will happen very soon.



I saw something that Elegoo is coming out with the Mars 3. I believe that is suppose to be 4K. I tried to find more information about it, but I can't find nothing. I guess just need to wait.

Chairman Aeon wrote:My crossroads now is: 1) do I get a small form mono printer for minis, or 2) do I get a larger format resin printer and toss my Ender 3 onto Craigslist.

My Ender is being so temperamental right now that the idea of a printer that could do both minis and terrain (that didn't take days to print) is getting very attractive.


From my research it seems to be better to use FDM (I think that is what it's called) for large terrain. Unless you have a few thousands to spare, then getting the 8K Sonic (forget the name) the thing is HUGE. Maybe either fix your ender 3 or upgrade it to another one?

Flinty wrote:Resin seems like an awfully expensive way to do scenery though.


Still be cheaper than GW terrain .

Agies Grimm:The "Learn to play, bro" mentality is mostly just a way for someone to try to shame you by implying that their metaphorical nerd-wiener is bigger than yours. Which, ironically, I think nerds do even more vehemently than jocks.

Everything is made up and the points don't matter. 40K or Who's Line is it Anyway?

Auticus wrote: Or in summation: its ok to exploit shoddy points because those are rules and gamers exist to find rules loopholes (they are still "legal"), but if the same force can be composed without structure, it emotionally feels "wrong".  
   
Made in us
Shadowy Grot Kommittee Memba






 Flinty wrote:
Resin seems like an awfully expensive way to do scenery though.


Nah.

I mean it's more expensive than plastic 3d printing technically, but I was able to print up some pretty highly detailed towers and spikes and such for my drukhari board for less than a single 30$ bottle.

Resin 3d printed terrain seems to be about as expensive as MDF wood terrain, and vastly higher quality.

"I can't believe all these tryhard WAACs out there just care about winning all the time when it's supposed to be a game for fun!!!!!!! Also here's my 27 page essay on why marines are OP and Orkz should get a bunch of OP rules so I can win more games

-the_scotsman"

-ERJAK 
   
Made in es
Stealthy Warhound Titan Princeps






It will have the same volume after all, discounting supports (I don't think anyone will be crazy enough to print scenery solid in resin, and the good stuff is meant to be printed mostly supportless), so it will very much depend on the prices of the resin and the filament.
   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran





You guys seem to forget wasted filament and frustrations getting the printer to actually print. I’ve gone from half failed prints to all failed prints and can’t figure out what’s wrong. FDM is only cheaper when it works and right now I’m realizing why 3D printing is a hobby all by itself.
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

Both kinds can fail randomly or have issues in setting up. I do notice that FDM to get high quality fine detail prints seems ot involve more modifications and tinkering.


A Blog in Miniature

The Swarm Arises

Do you ever notice, sometimes, there's an extra post? 
   
Made in us
Shadowy Grot Kommittee Memba






 Chairman Aeon wrote:
You guys seem to forget wasted filament and frustrations getting the printer to actually print. I’ve gone from half failed prints to all failed prints and can’t figure out what’s wrong. FDM is only cheaper when it works and right now I’m realizing why 3D printing is a hobby all by itself.


Yeah thats kinda why I love resin.

I haven't had an actually failed resin print in months. Meanwhile, my friend who started FDM about the same time I got my resin printer basically has to hover by his printer and it fails like 1/2 the time no matter what he does.

The build plate size is occasionally an annoyance when I want to do a really big model, but anything I can break up into parts I can just do multiple runs for.

Five runs to print up a titanicus warlord titan with every single possible option, babyyyyyyyy.

"I can't believe all these tryhard WAACs out there just care about winning all the time when it's supposed to be a game for fun!!!!!!! Also here's my 27 page essay on why marines are OP and Orkz should get a bunch of OP rules so I can win more games

-the_scotsman"

-ERJAK 
   
Made in ca
Dakka Veteran





 the_scotsman wrote:
 Chairman Aeon wrote:
You guys seem to forget wasted filament and frustrations getting the printer to actually print. I’ve gone from half failed prints to all failed prints and can’t figure out what’s wrong. FDM is only cheaper when it works and right now I’m realizing why 3D printing is a hobby all by itself.


Yeah thats kinda why I love resin.


It seems that resin is just more forgiving at at least it's less time wasted when it fails. And as I move away from printing buildings (there is only so much shelf space) to printing figures, it just seems that a medium size resin printer will give the detail (and speed) of resin for miniatures with the option to squeeze moderate pieces of terrain out of it. (And it might be faster than FDM as the parts print faster and less anxiety of a 48 hour print failing at 99%)
   
Made in us
Shadowy Grot Kommittee Memba






 Chairman Aeon wrote:
 the_scotsman wrote:
 Chairman Aeon wrote:
You guys seem to forget wasted filament and frustrations getting the printer to actually print. I’ve gone from half failed prints to all failed prints and can’t figure out what’s wrong. FDM is only cheaper when it works and right now I’m realizing why 3D printing is a hobby all by itself.


Yeah thats kinda why I love resin.


It seems that resin is just more forgiving at at least it's less time wasted when it fails. And as I move away from printing buildings (there is only so much shelf space) to printing figures, it just seems that a medium size resin printer will give the detail (and speed) of resin for miniatures with the option to squeeze moderate pieces of terrain out of it. (And it might be faster than FDM as the parts print faster and less anxiety of a 48 hour print failing at 99%)


That is exactly what I have found to be the case. And if you get a photon X or whatever, youd basically be all set to print whatever.

Heck, I can put together modular terrain like zone mortalis just fine on my regular photon mono.

"I can't believe all these tryhard WAACs out there just care about winning all the time when it's supposed to be a game for fun!!!!!!! Also here's my 27 page essay on why marines are OP and Orkz should get a bunch of OP rules so I can win more games

-the_scotsman"

-ERJAK 
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

I love my Ender 3 Pro and my Elegoo Mars for different reasons, but would choose to print on my Mars if given the choice, every time.

I would just say for resin printing, the monochrome screens are probably the way to go with their longer life and shorter burn time. However, if looking to just dip in the toe for cheap, do not discount the basic resin printers that are $80-$100 less than their mono screen counter parts. You can pick up one of the basic Elegoo Mars units for under $200 and the Mars 2 Pro will be closer to $300. You will go through 3-4 LCD screens before you hit the cost of the M2P in the first place. I average around 150-200 runs on average on an LCD screen, which are about $25.

My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka




So I can keep everything in the same thread and not make a new one, where is the place you go for your files? Just curious to see what people print.

Since I will not have much money after I make this purchase (used twice 3d printer ibee I think it's called) will not be able to support any patreon or only one. So like to see what people are using.

Agies Grimm:The "Learn to play, bro" mentality is mostly just a way for someone to try to shame you by implying that their metaphorical nerd-wiener is bigger than yours. Which, ironically, I think nerds do even more vehemently than jocks.

Everything is made up and the points don't matter. 40K or Who's Line is it Anyway?

Auticus wrote: Or in summation: its ok to exploit shoddy points because those are rules and gamers exist to find rules loopholes (they are still "legal"), but if the same force can be composed without structure, it emotionally feels "wrong".  
   
Made in gb
Wise Ethereal with Bodyguard







There are loads of decent files on free sites like Thingiverse and 3D Cults.

Here are my Thingiverse collections in case they are useful

https://www.thingiverse.com/gflinty/collections

I have supplemented the free stuff with the occasional splurge on Kickstarter or MyMiniFactory. I prefer that to the subscription model of Patreon.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

I float between MMF, KS and Patreon at present


I'd say the bulk is patreon as if you find designers you like you basically pay the price of one model for many many models (how many varies, some are one big model a month some are dozens or more).

In part it really depends what kind of models you want and what genre. Ergo are you after big busts and models to paint; are you after armies or one off charactres; are you more going for DnD or RPG stuff or are you going for more wargame armies.

Or do you just want cool shelf stuff to paint.


It really depends on what you are after and what your desires are.




Right now I've perhaps one sci-fi line (Aphyrion who makes awesome tanks and stuff); and the rest is mostly fantasy.

A Blog in Miniature

The Swarm Arises

Do you ever notice, sometimes, there's an extra post? 
   
Made in de
Booming Thunderer




Hamburg

Davor wrote:
tauist wrote:

I specifically want a 4K mono with a small plate for that reason. A large plate is not going to increase the reso of small minis in any significant way.

And with only 1 or 2 4K monos out there with a small plate, I'd rather wait until all the big manufacturers come out with their version of one. I'm sure this will happen very soon.



I saw something that Elegoo is coming out with the Mars 3. I believe that is suppose to be 4K. I tried to find more information about it, but I can't find nothing. I guess just need to wait.


You can preorder now. Seems like a really good offer for 300 USD and free shipping. https://www.elegoo.com/collections/pre-order/products/elegoo-mars-3-lcd-3d-printer

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/06/11 07:03:51


 
   
Made in fi
Shas'ui with Bonding Knife






BOOM

Mars 3 might finally be "the one"...!
   
Made in ca
Fixture of Dakka




Thanks again everyone. I am learning lots here.

TheGoodGerman wrote:
Davor wrote:
tauist wrote:

I specifically want a 4K mono with a small plate for that reason. A large plate is not going to increase the reso of small minis in any significant way.

And with only 1 or 2 4K monos out there with a small plate, I'd rather wait until all the big manufacturers come out with their version of one. I'm sure this will happen very soon.



I saw something that Elegoo is coming out with the Mars 3. I believe that is suppose to be 4K. I tried to find more information about it, but I can't find nothing. I guess just need to wait.


You can preorder now. Seems like a really good offer for 300 USD and free shipping. https://www.elegoo.com/collections/pre-order/products/elegoo-mars-3-lcd-3d-printer


Oh dang. I think it's too late for me now. I am about to pick up a 3d printer today. A bit more than what I wanted to pay for, but including 3 bottles of resin, uv lights, sonic washer, just to hard to pass up.

Wish me luck and I can figure out how to use it this weekend.

Agies Grimm:The "Learn to play, bro" mentality is mostly just a way for someone to try to shame you by implying that their metaphorical nerd-wiener is bigger than yours. Which, ironically, I think nerds do even more vehemently than jocks.

Everything is made up and the points don't matter. 40K or Who's Line is it Anyway?

Auticus wrote: Or in summation: its ok to exploit shoddy points because those are rules and gamers exist to find rules loopholes (they are still "legal"), but if the same force can be composed without structure, it emotionally feels "wrong".  
   
Made in de
Booming Thunderer




Hamburg

 tauist wrote:
BOOM

Mars 3 might finally be "the one"...!

Yeah, I was on the fence for a while with the Phrozen SM4k and thought the same when I saw the announcement for the Mars 3. The „early bird“ discount (limited to 100 pieces or so) was gone in the time it took me to type my address. But I still ordered for the regular price. Please be aware that the preorder package is limited to 5000 pieces, and still available right now. Not sure what the retail price will be going forward.
   
Made in us
Destructive Daemon Prince





Albany, NY

I feel like the Mars 2 Pro just came out! That is tempting, with my Mars Pro approaching it's one year birthday ...

KOW BATREPS: BLOODFIRE
INSTAGRAM: @boss_salvage 
   
 
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