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After my first effort of running the airbrush at 40PSI and blowing all the paint out the front in rapid style, I now mix only a very small ammount in a medicine cup - just enough to use and discard the remainder (rather than mixing up a big batch).

For example, I wanted to put some yellow on my swooping hawks' wings, so it was a mix of about .2ml of sunburst yellow paint to about .6ml of airbrush thinner. The very thin paint allows you to layer on paint well and it dries quickly. With 10 of them to do I used this paint mix with some spare.

Saves having to store airbrush mix paint separately (although some may prefer if they have a large army to paint for example).

Very economical - used less paint than I would have with a brush for sure.

had to open this up again...first to see any updated work of people who got inspired and started to break out their airbrushes....

and second...I took a trip to harbor freight and looked at compressors.

As far a regulator/moisture trap would this be what I want to hook up to any compressor that didn't come with these things for airbrushing? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95439

As far as compressors, I wasn't sure what to pick up so I'm going to research it. I think I'm going to pick up one of their 3 or 4 gallon little compressors since I can stick it in the garage and paint out there with my airbrush.

I really don't know how to answer your question, but I'm glad this thread lives again!

Gunzhard wrote: but I'm glad this thread lives again!

So am I! Somehow I missed this thread the first time around. It's been a godsend as I've been wanting an airbrush thanks to the Imperial Armour masterclass book. Big thanks to everyone's tips here. Now I just need to get the idea past the soon-to-be-wife

Thanks MoM for this tutorial. The in-depth aproach from the buying of the material to how to use it is appreciated. Also, its one of the rare airbrush articles that give options other than base-coating and camo.

Just wanted to open this thread again to talk
about paint thinners and paint. I read a reply on the
Fine Scale Modeler airbrushing forum about using Future
floor polish as a thinner with Vallejo game color paints. I
tried it and the results are great. I now use it for GW paints, craft paints, etc. I am wondering if anyone else
has tried this and what their experience was. You get a very smooth gloss finish, and it smells nice too (LOL).

Just to add to this thread. Ive airbrushed scale models for a while now an d i swear by my airbrush now. I started off using a cheap and chearfull airbrush from here:
http://www.airbrush-pro.co.uk/
Which did me fine but would only do larger areas. Ive now invested in a Iwata Evoloution airbrush which i am loving now. My secondbest investmant has been a air regulator which sits in line with my quick release fitting and arbrush.

If there is interest i can photograph my set up to give people an idea what im running.

If you are in the UK i cant recommend enough giving my freind here a shout (no im not on commision, hes just a good freind offering a good service and he knows what hes on about)
http://www.little-cars.co.uk/
If you give him a ring hes more than happy to talk you through options and explain things.

dad1946 wrote:Just wanted to open this thread again to talk
about paint thinners and paint. I read a reply on the
Fine Scale Modeler airbrushing forum about using Future
floor polish as a thinner with Vallejo game color paints. I
tried it and the results are great. I now use it for GW paints, craft paints, etc. I am wondering if anyone else
has tried this and what their experience was. You get a very smooth gloss finish, and it smells nice too (LOL).

This brings me to my question. How do you go about thinning the paints? Is there any special trick the one should know? Do you use water to thin it, or do you need something like the floor polish. If the polish, what kind? Inquiring minds want to know?

Nice little tutorial but I'd point out the following:

I'd recommend anyone spending money on a compressor get one with an integral air tank. It doesn't matter how big. Air coming from a tank doesn't "pulse" like that coming directly from a compressor. This is an ENORMOUS help when painting at PSIs below 30, as you won't get spattering paint halfway through a line.

Additionally, if you're spraying anything other than water/acrylic paints, you need to invest in a respirator and a spray booth. Avoiding to have to go to the doctor for lung problems is worth the extra money.

As far a regulator/moisture trap would this be what I want to hook up to any compressor that didn't come with these things for airbrushing? http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=95439

The problem with traps like that is you have to "bleed" the water out through the valve on the bottom occasionally. I had one on my last compressor that would never fully bleed, so water sat in the bottom and rusted the valve.

IIRC, my current compressor has what's called a "water/oil separator" that's clear and has little balls of dessicant (the stuff they put in shoes and clothes at stores) inside it. Never have the purge it and when the desiccant turns gray, you just discard and refill it.

How do you go about thinning the paints? Is there any special trick the one should know? Do you use water to thin it, or do you need something like the floor polish. If the polish, what kind? Inquiring minds want to know?

I use Illustration Base exclusively now.

Cheaper than dedicated "airbrush thinner", lacks the moisture of thinning with water that causes poor adhesion, and doesn't give off harmful chemicals like thinning with Future or Windex would.

I use Golden Airbrush base

Createx makes some: http://www.airbrushwarehouse.com.au/paints/createx-additives/597

Just like to say that this forum has inspired me to try out airbrushing myself! Right now there is this deal currently on Ebay that I think looks like a steal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2mm-Dual-Act-Gravity-Airbrush-Master-Airbrush-G44-G-/170582808737?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b78718a1

From what was said earlier this is the exact same gun as the PS900 just under a different company. It comes with the hose quick release and an airbrush stand to set it on. Not bad for 60bucks free shipping.

My only delay now is I need to find an air compressor. This has been talked to death on these forums and I literally spent 4 hours today at work researching air sources *Don't tell my boss*. I live in an apartment and have no idea the reality of using a loud compressor even if i charge it only during the day etc. I really don't want to spend 350 on a Black Jet Lite or w/e airbrush compressor. I also researched CO2 pretty intensely which definitely looks to have its pro's but might be expensive in the long haul. Ugh! Such a hard choice to make.

I have a Masters brush... I bought it specifically to do metallics that I will never again put into my nicer airbrushes.

It works fine, but the seals are pretty crappy and the nozzle tip is extremely fragile... I've already broken one and had to order a second. Most of the issues I had using this AB were solved with Bees Wax however and it is working fine atm.

I have an Iwata SmartJet compressor... it's small and I don't have any separate tank so it's running nearly the entire time I AB, but it is fairly quiet. I live in an apartment and I've never got any complaints... I would guess that after midnight when the world is quiet that somebody might hear the purr but it's not likely to bother. That is the major 'pro' of getting a smaller hobby compressor.

The larger garage compressors are of course more efficient, more versatile and often more economical, but not everyone can make use of them.

Pyronick wrote:Just like to say that this forum has inspired me to try out airbrushing myself! Right now there is this deal currently on Ebay that I think looks like a steal.

http://cgi.ebay.com/2mm-Dual-Act-Gravity-Airbrush-Master-Airbrush-G44-G-/170582808737?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27b78718a1

From what was said earlier this is the exact same gun as the PS900 just under a different company. It comes with the hose quick release and an airbrush stand to set it on. Not bad for 60bucks free shipping.

My only delay now is I need to find an air compressor. This has been talked to death on these forums and I literally spent 4 hours today at work researching air sources *Don't tell my boss*. I live in an apartment and have no idea the reality of using a loud compressor even if i charge it only during the day etc. I really don't want to spend 350 on a Black Jet Lite or w/e airbrush compressor. I also researched CO2 pretty intensely which definitely looks to have its pro's but might be expensive in the long haul. Ugh! Such a hard choice to make.

Why not buy a Paasche Talon? It's only $20 more but is US-made, is a major brand, and is a good brush.

I agree. The Paasche Talon is IMO the best wargames airbrush out there based on price, design and usefulness. Others are pricier but nicer, but the cheaper ones just don't come close. I paid $80 for mine with all 3 needles included as well as the hose.

ancientsociety wrote:
I use Illustration Base exclusively now.

Cheaper than dedicated "airbrush thinner", lacks the moisture of thinning with water that causes poor adhesion, and doesn't give off harmful chemicals like thinning with Future or Windex would.

I use Golden Airbrush base

Createx makes some: http://www.airbrushwarehouse.com.au/paints/createx-additives/597

Can you clarify this dude... is the 'base' the same as the 'airbrush medium'? ...your link opens up a page showing only the medium. I've used Golden AB medium, and I always use Liquitex AB medium now, and both are great. Is the 'base' something different and/or better?

Gunzhard wrote:

ancientsociety wrote:
I use Illustration Base exclusively now.

Cheaper than dedicated "airbrush thinner", lacks the moisture of thinning with water that causes poor adhesion, and doesn't give off harmful chemicals like thinning with Future or Windex would.

I use Golden Airbrush base

Createx makes some: http://www.airbrushwarehouse.com.au/paints/createx-additives/597

Can you clarify this dude... is the 'base' the same as the 'airbrush medium'? ...your link opens up a page showing only the medium. I've used Golden AB medium, and I always use Liquitex AB medium now, and both are great. Is the 'base' something different and/or better?

Base and Medium are just different terms for the same thing.

Wow, I havent been on Dakka for a few months, so I was kind of surprised to see this thread has recently been pulled out of the back of the fridge(Hiding behind the jar of what looked like Tyranid biomass or something nurgly....)

So, to cover some of the new points/queries-

Future can be used to thin paints, but its not exactly thin itself. This usually means you have to up the air pressure a little bit to push a slightly thicker mix. More air has a few effects, its blows over plastic figs, and can cause more spidering if you arent holding your brush far enough away. Another aspect of future- is it will make the paint a bit more durable(this is why people use it as a clear coat...) it will also make things glossy- so if you dont like your figs shiny make sure to have some sort of matte finisher to counter the shine of the Future.

The Paache Talo is a nice brush- but at the time I wrote this piece it was running over a 100$, which is steep for someone that is just starting or trying an AB out. So I stand with my PS900/Master make brush. Its still more airbrush than I can make full use of and is like 40$ now.

For using actual air brush additives for base/mediums to thin my AB paint- it depends on the project. If Im doing a bigger resin bust of a comic book character, I'll use the mediums since the larger flat surfaces need to be super smooth. But on gaming stuff, with all the small textures, and with hightlights via dry brushing or washes/inks- its a moot point and windex, rubbing alcohol, or even Future will work just fine for tabletop stuff.

I've got some new content to share for making stencils, and simple & fast ways to mask areas from large to small that should really help. But it takes pics to really show and Im waiting on a better camera before I really get into it.

morgendonner wrote:I'm the one who started asking about using a paintball CO2 tank, I've done a little browsing to find out.

Yeah, no. You can't use CO2. As CO2 expands, the temperature drops drastically (hence why your CO2 tank gets so cold), moreso than w/ compressed air. I don't think you need me to tell you that very cold air is bad for your paint.

chaos0xomega wrote:

morgendonner wrote:I'm the one who started asking about using a paintball CO2 tank, I've done a little browsing to find out.

Yeah, no. You can't use CO2. As CO2 expands, the temperature drops drastically (hence why your CO2 tank gets so cold), moreso than w/ compressed air. I don't think you need me to tell you that very cold air is bad for your paint.

Actually CO2 tanks do work, an airbrush isn't blowing the raw volume to cause freeze up issues. I've seen guys using them for portable set ups doing airbrushed tattoos and the like. Since people dont airbrush outside in the winter- the temp issues from the CO2 arent much of an issue- as anyone thats an advanced enough user is going to know how to counter the temp of the propellant. Its not really any different than using canned air- those little things literally will ice up on you if its humid.

Also- you dont have to put CO2 into the CO2 tanks- you can put air in them Down side for them is the small volume, even at higher psi isnt going to give alot of air time- but would be enough to base coat a few vehicles or a couple of squads.

Mistress of minis wrote:

chaos0xomega wrote:

morgendonner wrote:I'm the one who started asking about using a paintball CO2 tank, I've done a little browsing to find out.

Yeah, no. You can't use CO2. As CO2 expands, the temperature drops drastically (hence why your CO2 tank gets so cold), moreso than w/ compressed air. I don't think you need me to tell you that very cold air is bad for your paint.

Actually CO2 tanks do work, an airbrush isn't blowing the raw volume to cause freeze up issues. I've seen guys using them for portable set ups doing airbrushed tattoos and the like. Since people dont airbrush outside in the winter- the temp issues from the CO2 arent much of an issue- as anyone thats an advanced enough user is going to know how to counter the temp of the propellant. Its not really any different than using canned air- those little things literally will ice up on you if its humid.

Also- you dont have to put CO2 into the CO2 tanks- you can put air in them Down side for them is the small volume, even at higher psi isnt going to give alot of air time- but would be enough to base coat a few vehicles or a couple of squads.

CO2 is an issue in the summer (especially in humid climates). The cold causes moisture to condense onto the paint, which ruins the paint. I've never used canned air, so I wouldn't really know what thats like at all.

You really should do a bit more research about the Co2. It works quite well for many people. Google Co2 + airbrush and it might show you what I mean.

I cant tell if you're talking about the theoretical aspects of Co2 being cold, or from actual experience- but it seems more like the previous.

For the amount of cold build up you seem to be talking about- there needs to be a large volume of gas moving- nd airbrushes just dont have a high enough CFM rating to really get an endothermic reaction like that. If they did- every soda dispenser would freeze up from the Co2 used to carbonate the drinks.

Well, the amount of CO2 used in a soda dispenser is actually not all that much (per cup I mean). Anyway, yeah I'm speaking from theory. I've never run CO2 through my airbrush, and I'm pretty convinced I wouldn't want to (in any case, the amount of money I pay the electric company to run a compressor is negligible, especially compared to the amount of money I would spend on CO2 refills just to cover my normal use).

Mistress of minis wrote:
For using actual air brush additives for base/mediums to thin my AB paint- it depends on the project. If Im doing a bigger resin bust of a comic book character, I'll use the mediums since the larger flat surfaces need to be super smooth. But on gaming stuff, with all the small textures, and with hightlights via dry brushing or washes/inks- its a moot point and windex, rubbing alcohol, or even Future will work just fine for tabletop stuff.

Sorry, really have to disagree with this statement. I started out using Windex and it caused particulate buildup on the surface almost immediately. Additionally, it's a health hazard - atomized ammonia (as in Windex) or alcohol really isn't good for your lungs.

You also say that Future isn't thin and the air pressure must be raised, which causes issues, but then you recommend it for smaller work??? Detailed work requires less PSi, anything that you add that must raise the PSi, is directly working against what you want to do.

As mentioned earlier, ever since I switched to Illustration Base, the ease of AB'ing has improved dramatically, which is worth the extra $2-3 more than buying any of the above product. I can also take any extra paint left-over and pour it right back into the pot without ruining the paint. You can't do that with windex or alcohol. YMMV

ancientsociety wrote:

Mistress of minis wrote:
For using actual air brush additives for base/mediums to thin my AB paint- it depends on the project. If Im doing a bigger resin bust of a comic book character, I'll use the mediums since the larger flat surfaces need to be super smooth. But on gaming stuff, with all the small textures, and with hightlights via dry brushing or washes/inks- its a moot point and windex, rubbing alcohol, or even Future will work just fine for tabletop stuff.

Sorry, really have to disagree with this statement. I started out using Windex and it caused particulate buildup on the surface almost immediately. Additionally, it's a health hazard - atomized ammonia (as in Windex) or alcohol really isn't good for your lungs.

You also say that Future isn't thin and the air pressure must be raised, which causes issues, but then you recommend it for smaller work??? Detailed work requires less PSi, anything that you add that must raise the PSi, is directly working against what you want to do.

As mentioned earlier, ever since I switched to Illustration Base, the ease of AB'ing has improved dramatically, which is worth the extra $2-3 more than buying any of the above product. I can also take any extra paint left-over and pour it right back into the pot without ruining the paint. You can't do that with windex or alcohol. YMMV

You seem very determined to continually be contrary rather than provide anything factual.

You do realize Windex is SPRAYED onto glass right? People dont die or go to the hospital from using it? This is a silly point and MANY airbrushers use it, and have done so for a long while without ill effects.

I never recommended using Future- I simply pointed out its different handling characteristics compared to other mediums.

And, since you have had success with the Illustration Base- why dont you tell us a little more about that?

Mistress of minis wrote:You seem very determined to continually be contrary rather than provide anything factual.

I think you're taking my posts a little too personally. As I mentioned in my post above, it's a nice tutorial but is missing a few things. My point wasn't to offend, but to add my perspective. If I did, my apologies.

The point of your OP was to help new users, as you consider yourself well-versed on the subject. You should be aware that some users who are just as well-versed will share their own opinions and may disagree with your own. It's not an attack on you.

We both want the same thing - for new users to avoid the mistakes we made starting out. Right?

Mistress of minis wrote:You do realize Windex is SPRAYED onto glass right? People dont die or go to the hospital from using it? This is a silly point and MANY airbrushers use it, and have done so for a long while without ill effects.

Yes, I do realize and am aware many ABers use it, however, since this is a tutorial directed at new users, you may want to mention that nearly all ABers who use such mediums either wear a full-on respirator, paint in a spray box, or some combination of the above.

The casual user who's spraying Windex unto glass is spraying it for 10 secs. An ABer using it as a medium is spraying for 5-15 minutes at a time. That's a big difference at least to me. As I mentioned above...YMMV.

Mistress of minis wrote:I never recommended using Future- I simply pointed out its different handling characteristics compared to other mediums.

"...or even Future will work just fine for tabletop stuff."

Sorry, but the casual reader would consider that a recommendation.

Mistress of minis wrote:And, since you have had success with the Illustration Base- why dont you tell us a little more about that?

I have...

ancientsociety wrote:
I use Illustration Base exclusively now.

Cheaper than dedicated "airbrush thinner", lacks the moisture of thinning with water that causes poor adhesion, and doesn't give off harmful chemicals like thinning with Future or Windex would.

I use Golden Airbrush base

Createx makes some: http://www.airbrushwarehouse.com.au/paints/createx-additives/597

Great article, I'm finding all this very enlightening.

I've been considering buying an airbrush and compressor for some time.

This is what I've been drawn towards: http://cgi.ebay.com/IWATA-HP-CS-Eclipse-AIRBRUSH-w-COMPRESSOR-KIT-Air-Brush_W0QQitemZ190487432693QQcategoryZ28111QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D200528810038%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6436809623787390632

Anyone care to advise if this is a worthwhile purchase? The price is fine by me, I just want to be aware of any potential pitfalls re: the compressor.

Thats the kit I have, works great for me. Just be aware that during normal use the compressor will be kicking in about every 5 minutes for about a minute at a time, but its not terribly loud, only a little louder than a refrigerator.

Automatically Appended Next Post:

More Dakka wrote:Great article, I'm finding all this very enlightening.

I've been considering buying an airbrush and compressor for some time.

This is what I've been drawn towards: http://cgi.ebay.com/IWATA-HP-CS-Eclipse-AIRBRUSH-w-COMPRESSOR-KIT-Air-Brush_W0QQitemZ190487432693QQcategoryZ28111QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D200528810038%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6436809623787390632

Anyone care to advise if this is a worthwhile purchase? The price is fine by me, I just want to be aware of any potential pitfalls re: the compressor.

The Eclipse is supposed to be an excellent AB. I've never used it nor do I know anyone who has, but I hear a lot of good things.

I do, however, have that same TCP Compressor and i thought it sucked. I had to go to Harbor Freight and buy one with an integral tank and better moisture trap, since that one kept pulsing paint and the water trap would never clear 100% of the water.

ancientsociety wrote:
Automatically Appended Next Post:

More Dakka wrote:Great article, I'm finding all this very enlightening.

I've been considering buying an airbrush and compressor for some time.

This is what I've been drawn towards: http://cgi.ebay.com/IWATA-HP-CS-Eclipse-AIRBRUSH-w-COMPRESSOR-KIT-Air-Brush_W0QQitemZ190487432693QQcategoryZ28111QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DSIC%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D10%26pmod%3D200528810038%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D6436809623787390632

Anyone care to advise if this is a worthwhile purchase? The price is fine by me, I just want to be aware of any potential pitfalls re: the compressor.

The Eclipse is supposed to be an excellent AB. I've never used it nor do I know anyone who has, but I hear a lot of good things.

I do, however, have that same TCP Compressor and i thought it sucked. I had to go to Harbor Freight and buy one with an integral tank and better moisture trap, since that one kept pulsing paint and the water trap would never clear 100% of the water.

OHHHH my bad. Don't get that one, get this kit instead:

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-IWATA-HP-CS-Eclipse-AIRBRUSH-KIT-w-TANK-COMPRESSOR-/200562228084?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2eb270bb74

Same seller, same airbrush, same compressor... but now it has a tank attached to it.

Shows what happens when you don't pay attention, lol.

Ah, so the airtank solves the pressure problem.

Checking with a friend who was offering me his Badger compressor for about $100.00: http://www.internethobbies.com/bad18com.html

Is that one any good?

More Dakka wrote:Ah, so the airtank solves the pressure problem.

Checking with a friend who was offering me his Badger compressor for about $100.00: http://www.internethobbies.com/bad18com.html

Is that one any good?

I wouldn't know, but I will point out that it does not have an air tank...