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Well I ordered the Menoth and Legion starters. They just got shipped today so sometime next week I'll have them.

I've ben going through my Pime MkII at random and something I read that came up in a test match with cutouts.

When a warjack is wrecked by a free strike, where does the wreck sit? Lets say the warjack it was engaged with was touching it's front right arc with it's (enemy's) front left arc. I wanted to move it straight to the left about 4" and it had 2 boxes left. At what point along that path is it wrecked? Does it wreck at the point when it's .5" from the enemy warjack since that's it's limit for melee? Or does it wreck at the end of it's path? Or something else entirely. I guess the main thins is does it wreck at the limit of the free-striking jack's limit of melee?

It would be wrecked at the exact point that it left the melee range of the model that made the free strike. Similar situations occur when a model is knocked down or otherwise interrupted by a free strike.

The wreck appears where the free strike happened 0.5" or 2" with reach away from the model making the free strike. Unless it's a trample but that's getting into power attacks.

Ok, well now I won't screw that up, thanks for the quick reply. I was wondering. If a model is not in engaged with an enemy, and it passes within then out or melee range does the enemy get a free strike?

Yep, unless you have something stopping free strikes (parry, ghostly, etc) then they are always made when a model leaves another's melee range. Well I say always it's down to the model's controller as sometimes it's not the best idea.

As an absolute beginner, I found this thread very useful. Thanks!

So I finally got mine. Stupid Canada Post strike.

I got signed Kreoss and Lylyth cards as my bonus instead of dice or a tape measure, much better.

Signed? By who out of curiousity? :B

According to the apology letter it says writer Doug Seacat and developer David Carl.


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Also these were outside the packaging slipped in the book. So i have an unsigned copy of each to use for the game.

Very nice......................

So would you guys say the Battle Boxes are still a good place to start if you aren't planning on using the models down the line?

I don't know, should I get a few games wit hSorscha in before I jump to Strakhov, or just... jump to Strakhov?

Well if your not going to use any of the models than no...the battle box doesn't do you much good. Unless you decide to buy a heavy warjack kit and magnatize the arms - that way you get 2 jacks for the price of one.

Casper wrote:Well if your not going to use any of the models than no...the battle box doesn't do you much good. Unless you decide to buy a heavy warjack kit and magnatize the arms - that way you get 2 jacks for the price of one.

Ooooh, good idea, that...

I might have to do that, and hold onto Sorscha for a sort of Backup 'Caster...

So I've been looking at my Menoth box and the models and wondering, is it the same type of plastic as GW models and therefore GW Plastic Glue works on it? I like how the glue works by fusing pieces. Or are the PP plastic models more like the Finecast models and made from a sort of resin plastic and therefore the plastic glue is useless?

Portaljacker wrote:So I've been looking at my Menoth box and the models and wondering, is it the same type of plastic as GW models and therefore GW Plastic Glue works on it? I like how the glue works by fusing pieces. Or are the PP plastic models more like the Finecast models and made from a sort of resin plastic and therefore the plastic glue is useless?

PP plastic is not polystyreene so plastic glue doesn't work. It is also not the same stuff as finecast, it is more stiff and doesn't bend as easily as finecast. Still you need to use superglue to glue it. It is nice plastic to work with and especially the jacks are a joy to construct as no pinning is not needed.

Is it reccomended to score the plastic to increase the surface area the glue holds on to? Or is it porous like the resin and fincast resin/plastic? Would a pin do any harm?

I just used regular superglue type glue. Use it for plastics, metal, etc.

And no need for pinning or scoring as far as I can tell. All of the PP plastics I have dealt with have gone together easily.

And yes, magnetizing any of the plastic heavy jacks is relatively easy. I have magnetized Cygnar and Cryx jacks. My friend has khador which he is going to put magnets in and they look easier than the other two because they are so beefy. Menoth jacks look pretty decently sized so I am sure they would be easy to magnetize as well.