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Made in us
Fixture of Dakka






Lancaster PA

Are there pics of she-wolf models in the wild yet? I would love to get my hands on them, maybe.


Woad to WAR... on Celts blog, which is mostly Circle Orboros
"I'm sick of auto-penetrating attacks against my behind!" - Kungfuhustler 
   
Made in us
Most Glorious Grey Seer





Everett, WA

I finally got my stuff. That leaves two Kickstarters outstanding for me.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/09/17 19:08:44


 
   
Made in de
Longtime Dakkanaut




Blood Rage is almost there.. so ... that means only Raging Heroes part 2 is missing.

Wow... I need to back more! I even have loads of money at the moment..


And no to something completely different:

Since 40k is more like a joke than an actual game and many of us are struggling to find uses for our miniatures: Warpath Kickstarter starts in 4 days for a new mantic ruleset.

Maybe we can use our sexy ladies for that?
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





America

That would be wonderful...I need to use them for something.....

Age Quod Agis 
   
Made in nl
[MOD]
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Cozy cockpit of an Imperial Knight

Finally, some new models in the store: http://www.ragingheroes.com/collections/new



Fatum Iustum Stultorum



Fiat justitia ruat caelum

 
   
Made in us
Infiltrating Prowler





Portland, OR

 BrookM wrote:
Finally, some new models in the store: http://www.ragingheroes.com/collections/new
It is about damn time! ... I have too many things on my plate otherwise I probably would have immediately caved. I think I'm going to have to go through and finally go through my Ebay pile of games and miniatures to make room finally, maybe do some trades.
   
Made in nl
[MOD]
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Cozy cockpit of an Imperial Knight

I got a nurse Karoline and Admiral Kurganova myself, the rest didn't catch my fancy. I did recheck the KS site for what they got and made a small list of things I'll be getting over time as they start releasing them.



Fatum Iustum Stultorum



Fiat justitia ruat caelum

 
   
Made in gb
Fresh-Faced New User




Really impressed by the Artillery pieces - would definitely get more of them when they're released for retail.
   
Made in se
Confident Marauder Chieftain




The Frozen wastes

I've had it with these things, I've cleaned them of 7 times before the paint stuck well enough for me to start assembly and the force required to assemble them are again causing chipping. Not to mention I've had exactly one pin-hole joint in all my minis where the pin actually fit the hole.
Add to that I realise that I've lost parts in the weeks it has taken me to clean them, and several minis with air bubbles. The design is nice but the quality of the work is beyond abysmal.

Anyone have a customer support email to use? Because I have some things that needs saying.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2015/09/20 13:37:08



Cheers
TheDungen 
   
Made in au
Crushing Clawed Fiend




Ballarat, victoria

Have to agree re the releasing agent they use. It is a nightmare to clean the minis. I have to clean them several times and still some area the paint doesn't stick to. I have then resorted to using varnish on those area and painting over that!
I've used hand soap and dish washing liquids...... Any other ideas?
   
Made in us
Infiltrating Prowler





Portland, OR

What brand and kind of primer are you using? When you paint are you handling the minis or are they mounted so you aren't actually touching the places where you've painted?
   
Made in se
Confident Marauder Chieftain




The Frozen wastes

barnacle111 wrote:
Have to agree re the releasing agent they use. It is a nightmare to clean the minis. I have to clean them several times and still some area the paint doesn't stick to. I have then resorted to using varnish on those area and painting over that!
I've used hand soap and dish washing liquids...... Any other ideas?


I made a separate thread aksing about it and got a few ideas.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/662044.page


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 Dark Severance wrote:
What brand and kind of primer are you using? When you paint are you handling the minis or are they mounted so you aren't actually touching the places where you've painted?

I'm not sure I get what you're asking about? I mount them on their base and then mount the base on top a cardboard box then I spray prime them. And I'm using the army painter black primer. Of course I got to touch the minis when assembling them. But belive me this go far beyond any fat that could come of my fingers.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2015/09/21 04:43:02



Cheers
TheDungen 
   
Made in us
Infiltrating Prowler





Portland, OR

 TheDungen wrote:
I'm not sure I get what you're asking about? I mount them on their base and then mount the base on top a cardboard box then I spray prime them. And I'm using the army painter black primer. Of course I got to touch the minis when assembling them. But belive me this go far beyond any fat that could come of my fingers.
I wasn't meaning when you assemble them but when actually painting them. I used to have an issue while back but that was because I was handling them while painting them. The oil on my fingers was causing the paint and primer to chip and wear off. Once I moved them not handling them when I paint, they are on a miniatures stand so I no longer touch them. I stopped having an issue.

I simply use a toothbrush and soap to scrub, clean them and make sure they dry. Assemble pieces and then primer. I typically want the miniatures to sit for at least 48-72 hours before painting to allow the primer to properly bond. Sometimes if you start painting too soon it can cause a problem. It really depends on what brand paint you are using to prime with. If you are using some sort of cleaner or solvent other than soap, sometimes those can have a strange reaction with certain brands of primers as well. There used to be a post floating around about that somewhere. I then make sure when I'm painting that I don't handle them until after I've done the clearcoat.
   
Made in se
Confident Marauder Chieftain




The Frozen wastes

 Dark Severance wrote:
 TheDungen wrote:
I'm not sure I get what you're asking about? I mount them on their base and then mount the base on top a cardboard box then I spray prime them. And I'm using the army painter black primer. Of course I got to touch the minis when assembling them. But belive me this go far beyond any fat that could come of my fingers.
I wasn't meaning when you assemble them but when actually painting them. I used to have an issue while back but that was because I was handling them while painting them. The oil on my fingers was causing the paint and primer to chip and wear off. Once I moved them not handling them when I paint, they are on a miniatures stand so I no longer touch them. I stopped having an issue.

I simply use a toothbrush and soap to scrub, clean them and make sure they dry. Assemble pieces and then primer. I typically want the miniatures to sit for at least 48-72 hours before painting to allow the primer to properly bond. Sometimes if you start painting too soon it can cause a problem. It really depends on what brand paint you are using to prime with. If you are using some sort of cleaner or solvent other than soap, sometimes those can have a strange reaction with certain brands of primers as well. There used to be a post floating around about that somewhere. I then make sure when I'm painting that I don't handle them until after I've done the clearcoat.


Of course I don't touch the mini when I' painting it... Never mind the oil from you fingers, unless your paint is really dry (like 24hours since application) you might actually rub it of if you do.

It's been three weaks since I first cleaned them, since then I've cleaned them 6 or 7 times with diffrent kinds of chemicals (dish soap then the stuff I use to clean paint of minis and finally heavy duty detergent, the stuff i use to wash the facade of my house). And the gunk just won't go of. Then I left them for a week in a sunny window in case it was a curing problem.

Still don't stick well, Now I'm just trying to make it work. Decently well I'll just have to handle them carefully until I can put vernish on them.

Should that fail I'll go for the tip i got in the other post and let them sit for 30 sec in acetone.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/09/22 13:51:19



Cheers
TheDungen 
   
Made in us
Alluring Mounted Daemonette






 Wehrkind wrote:
Are there pics of she-wolf models in the wild yet? I would love to get my hands on them, maybe.


Not painted yet but I snapped a few pictures of the one I have together.
Note the holes in the side of her face are for some flaring hair braids. those will be added post paint. all 4 of the models have the same flaring braid things




This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/09/22 21:25:55


 
   
Made in se
Confident Marauder Chieftain




The Frozen wastes

I found this from ranging heroes as relating to priming your minis.

http://www.ragingheroes.com/blogs/news/33331588-de-greasing-and-priming-your-tgg-resin-miniatures

Appearantly you have to waste loads of sparay on many thing coats to get their resin to work. I'm so glad they chose such a awesome formula for their resin it would have been a shame if you could spray it like any other resin miniature. But no worries, everyone knows spray paint is free... oh wait.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2015/09/23 05:11:36



Cheers
TheDungen 
   
Made in gb
Aspirant Tech-Adept





UK

Please note that applying primer to a resin miniature is not the same as for a metal one. You need to apply the primer in a very fine mist, and let dry, and then do it again. You might have to do 4 or 5 passes of very light spray. Otherwise, the layer underneath stays wet, which causes the eventual flaking.


I would say that's fairly standard advice for priming any resin miniature. Any miniature at all in fact. Multiple thin layers, allowing each layer to dry.

Angels Amaranthine - growing slowly

P&M blog ; http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/488077.page

Currently 200pts 
   
Made in us
Infiltrating Prowler





Portland, OR

 TheDungen wrote:
Appearantly you have to waste loads of spray on many thing coats to get their resin to work.
Except you aren't. With a light dusting of primer, you're using roughly the same amount of primer you would with getting full coverage. Except you are layering multiple passes to ensure thin coverage but full coverage and bonding.

 alanmckenzie wrote:
I would say that's fairly standard advice for priming any resin miniature. Any miniature at all in fact. Multiple thin layers, allowing each layer to dry.
Yeah I would almost say that is for almost any miniature. But then again I usually airbrush so I always do multiple passes especially with primer. I've never just done one spray pass, even with a rattle can I would do light primering and then 2-3 additional dusting coats.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/09/23 06:04:02


 
   
Made in nl
[MOD]
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Cozy cockpit of an Imperial Knight

Huh, I had no problem at all applying a single coat of Chaos Black to my resin Irena Vega.



Fatum Iustum Stultorum



Fiat justitia ruat caelum

 
   
Made in se
Confident Marauder Chieftain




The Frozen wastes

 Dark Severance wrote:
 TheDungen wrote:
Appearantly you have to waste loads of spray on many thing coats to get their resin to work.
Except you aren't. With a light dusting of primer, you're using roughly the same amount of primer you would with getting full coverage. Except you are layering multiple passes to ensure thin coverage but full coverage and bonding.

 alanmckenzie wrote:
I would say that's fairly standard advice for priming any resin miniature. Any miniature at all in fact. Multiple thin layers, allowing each layer to dry.
Yeah I would almost say that is for almost any miniature. But then again I usually airbrush so I always do multiple passes especially with primer. I've never just done one spray pass, even with a rattle can I would do light primering and then 2-3 additional dusting coats.


Except you can't regulate flow on a spray can when you press the button it sprays a certain amount, only way to make a light dusting is to hold the can further away from the mini which means you waste more spray into the air where there is no mini.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
 BrookM wrote:
Huh, I had no problem at all applying a single coat of Chaos Black to my resin Irena Vega.


I also have several minis that took the paint very well, but others that seems to almost activly resist it. My guess is that the release agent got washed of some minis better than others and/or that the resin have cured to diffrent extent, which kind of means that their advice is pointless. Sure they can give a work around if there is trouble but the fault really lies with them.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/09/23 11:29:52



Cheers
TheDungen 
   
Made in us
Pulsating Possessed Chaos Marine





America

I build resin garage kits....and..sometimes the window sill is not enough..Direct sunlight and heat are required to cure some kits. Try finding a safe spot out side and leave them there for 8 hours or so in the heat. That should dry them out completely


Age Quod Agis 
   
Made in us
Infiltrating Prowler





Portland, OR

 TheDungen wrote:
Except you can't regulate flow on a spray can when you press the button it sprays a certain amount, only way to make a light dusting is to hold the can further away from the mini which means you waste more spray into the air where there is no mini.
It isn't necessarily about the flow as it is the motion and when you start the flow and stop. You do not need to be further away from it to achieve dusting the miniature. Most people when they primer make the mistake of pressing the button when the nozzle is directly on the miniature, then move it around. Although it can work it does create extra overspray which can build up in spaces and the primer ends up being more liquidy which can pool and run. The correct method is to press the button, pass over the area you want dusted and release once you're past the miniature.

Spoiler:



I'm not saying that isn't what you are doing and you may already be doing it. I'm just explaining what is normally meant when they say dusting over the piece. Very similar to the example in the video above which demonstrates multiple light coats.
   
Made in dk
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker




Copenhagen

Dear lord, I just received my last shipment yesterday.

It's... over...

42nd Cadian Infantry Regiment - 4605 pts.
Sven Bloodhowl's Great Company - 7033 pts.
Elements of Dark Angels 2nd and 3rd Companies - 1155 pts.
The Last Hatred Kabal - 3005 pts.
Eldar Slaves - 630 pts. 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

Join us, join us in TTG2

(you know you'll miss the waiting)

 
   
Made in dk
Speedy Swiftclaw Biker




Copenhagen

Well... I did. Just for a much smaller stake.

42nd Cadian Infantry Regiment - 4605 pts.
Sven Bloodhowl's Great Company - 7033 pts.
Elements of Dark Angels 2nd and 3rd Companies - 1155 pts.
The Last Hatred Kabal - 3005 pts.
Eldar Slaves - 630 pts. 
   
Made in us
Ruthless Rafkin






Glen Burnie, MD

Does anyone want some of mine? There are a limited few that might work in Malifuax, and that's my game for the most part. I'd love to have cash rather than these bits and bobs.



-Loki- wrote:
40k is about slamming two slegdehammers together and hoping the other breaks first. Malifaux is about fighting with scalpels trying to hit select areas and hoping you connect more. 
   
Made in nl
[MOD]
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Cozy cockpit of an Imperial Knight

Which ones are you parting with?



Fatum Iustum Stultorum



Fiat justitia ruat caelum

 
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Coastal Bliss in the Shadow of Sizewell





Suffolk, where the Aliens roam.

Going to need to find some pics to try and figure out exactly how some of these walkers/bikes go together.

However work on the two Guard armies has begun, now Aura is going Chaos with the Iron Empire it makes things more interesting.. two Imperial armies fighting each other would have felt odd.

"That's not an Ork, its a girl.." - Last words of High General Daran Ul'tharem, battle of Ursha VII.

Two White Horses (Ipswich Town and Denver Broncos Supporter)
 
   
Made in us
Ruthless Rafkin






Glen Burnie, MD

 BrookM wrote:
Which ones are you parting with?


I'm going to do an inventory later tonight and put some pics/prices up. Mine are all resin if that makes a difference.



-Loki- wrote:
40k is about slamming two slegdehammers together and hoping the other breaks first. Malifaux is about fighting with scalpels trying to hit select areas and hoping you connect more. 
   
Made in nl
[MOD]
Decrepit Dakkanaut






Cozy cockpit of an Imperial Knight

Ah, passsssssss for me then.



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Fiat justitia ruat caelum

 
   
 
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