Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Hello, fellow fellows, I was curious as to which glues you guys prefer?

Personally, I've been using the Citadel Plastic Glue Thick and the stringy-glue mess it makes me want to drink it and die.

Anything but GW branded glues, tbh water would probably do a better job >.<

I use Humbrol Poly Cement for most of my plastics and Loctite superglue (in one form or another) for everything else (finecast and resins, metal and any pins). Cheap PVA for my bases completes my adhesive collection.

^This.

I use Revell's Contacta range of liquid polystyrene cements for my plastic gluing (Testors,Tamiya and Humbrol all have similar products) and a variety of superglues and epoxies for metals.

PVA by the gallon (5 litre anyway) from the local hardware takes care of terrain needs.

Although since the OP admitted voluntarily using GW glues, I had doubts about his sanity to start with.
It's fortunate that I have a very good hobby store just a block away from the local GW - and an FLGS that is in the next suburb across from me wjere I can get alternatives (as he only stocks the Zap superglue range and Revell cements.

Yep, Revell or Humbrol for plastics and usually Selley's Superglue for me

ive always been a fan of the old model plastic glue with the metal needle tip . and for super glue i use loctite ultra control gel super glue

I use testors for plastics. I haven't tried their non toxic because im so used to buying their red ones but i know their red tubed plastic glue is awsome.

I use testors plastic glue and Selley's Quick Fix super glue.

The price of GW's glues are far to batgak insane to contemplate buying them even if they were halfway decent.

 Gummy wrote:
Hello, fellow fellows, I was curious as to which glues you guys prefer?

Personally, I've been using the Citadel Plastic Glue Thick and the stringy-glue mess it makes me want to drink it and die.

hahaha

Revell's Contacta plastic glue for me. And a cheap old 2-litre bottle of PVA glue for cheaps at the art/hobby store for my terrain needs.

As for superglue, I liked Zap-A-Gap a lot compared to GW's superglue, but my bottle dried up on me completely (dunno how), so Ill need to get another one.

I use Testors plastic cement (the stuff in the oddly shaped black bottle with an applicator tip, not the stringy mess-in-a-tube). The glue itself works well and the plastic applicator is reasonably precise, but it's a bit of a pain to get it flowing, I must admit. Not worth scrapping it, but I plan to move to a different bottle design or a brush-on, once this bottle runs out.

Throwing my vote in for Revell. Been using it for years now and never once had any major issues. As for super glue i just use cheapo super glue which i get from an $2 store.

I use galeforce 9 hobby glue. It's super glue and not plastic glue.

Model master liquid cement for plastic models. Has a nice long thin metal applicator tube, very precise.

For metals and stuff I just use whatever superglue is cheapest at the store.

Bob Smith Industries the purple medium bottle.

Very cheap $3 or so and does job perfectly plastics.

I recommend that every modeler have 3 glues on hand at all times.
-A thin plastic solvent glue for plastic models with well matched gluing surfaces
-A thin Superglue for plastic and metal models with well matched gluing surfaces and for strengthening existing bonds (will suck into the crack with capilary action
-A Thick (preferably ruberized) superglue for gap filling an joining of heavy metal components

All three of the glues I use are superior products too, and half the price-per-oz., of GW products and are available at most hobby shops or craft shops. Also, most of them are cheaper-per-oz than even the cheapo budget glues out there.

For plastic glue.
I use Plastruct Plastic weld (orange label). Has a brush applicator for really easy application and it's thin consistency for no sticky. Used by architectural model makers.

For Superglues,
Thin superglue- BSI (the brand at your local store with the store's name stamped on it) Instacure (blue bottle) or Instacure+ (purple bottle) http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html
-Thick Ruberized superglue. Gorilla "Impact Tough" formula or BSI Instaflex+ or IC2000. The BSI rubberized glues aren't as common in hobby shops, but the Gorilla "Impact Tough" Cyanoacrylate (not regular Gorilla Glue) Is available almsot everywhere.

I just use crazy glue my models have black armor
So even if its the goes on purple dries clear you dont even see it and it comes with a nice little brush to brush on the glue

Eilif wrote:
For Superglues,
Thin superglue- BSI (the brand at your local store with the store's name stamped on it) Instacure (blue bottle) or Instacure+ (purple bottle) http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html
-Thick Ruberized superglue. Gorilla "Impact Tough" formula or BSI Instaflex+ or IC2000. The BSI rubberized glues aren't as common in hobby shops, but the Gorilla "Impact Tough" Cyanoacrylate (not regular Gorilla Glue) Is available almsot everywhere.

Thanks mate. I finally understand what "CA glue" is. Stands for cyanoacrylate

most applications (including finecast) I use Gale Force 9 hobby glue or other cheap cyano-acrylate base

for bases and windshields elmers.
RARELY gorilla for pesky metal (it foams a lot!!!)

Crazy Glue - holds tight, can go on thin, but doesn't bond completely, so old or poorly assembled models can be disassembled, the glue remnants simply filed off.

Lord_Ghazghkull wrote:
ive always been a fan of the old model plastic glue with the metal needle tip . and for super glue i use loctite ultra control gel super glue

Some brands still have the metal tips. I believe Model Masters is one of them for plastic cement. It's an offshoot of testors according to this site but the normal testors bottle is a plastic applicator while the model master one is metal. I agree that the metal tip is superior for control of flow and lack of clogging.
http://www.thewarstore.com/product33526.html


Pretty sure overseas folk can get it too from their local hobby shops.

Oh, and while they have great plastic cement, they have terrible paints just to warn.

EDIT:(I have built 4 3000 point armies on one bottle of cement before, so the price is worth it)

I used Testors plastic cement for years, I had a bottle with the metal needle that lasted me for years. When that ran out I bought some Revell cement. Before that I used tubes of various plastic glues and they all worked pretty well, I have never tried the GW glues though.

For metals I use either superglue or Epoxy. As time goes on I use less superglue and more epoxy. Typically 5 minute araldite.

For well fitting metal or resin parts, I use super glue (CA if you prefer). The specific brand which I use is Zap A Gap - normally the thin formula.

If I have a poorly fitting resin or metal items to stick together, I will use an epoxy - either an epoxy putty like GS or a regular 5 minute epoxy. Mix in small quantities...apply with a tooth pick and the bond is rock solid.

On plastics, my preferred glue is Tenax 7R applied with a capillary applicator. If I need something more aggressive for one reason or another, I will use Plastruct's Plastic Weld. Glues ABS, Styrene and Acrylic stuff together. 7R is a gentle solvent compared to many, so while it creates a permanent bond like the others do - it doesn't dissolve as much of the plastic. This makes it faster setting and prevents the smoosh you see from time to time as well as those annoying fingerprints which happen should you get a bit on your fingers and touch something.

For clear stuff (canopies of Eldar tanks for example) I use Formula 560. Dries clear and doesn't risk fogging the plastic like CA or solvent cements.

I also keep a stash of wood glues, regular PVA and more exotic adhesives for different special applications and scenery construction.

What stores carry the Model Master or Revell's Contacta glues?

From what I know, I have a Hobby Lobby, Michael's, Walmart, Target, and a few game shops near me.

Basically anywhere that sells plastic model planes, cars, tanks or even wargaming stores that aren't owned by GW will sell a half decent glue to go with it. The hobby shop near me sells GW stuff mostly, but also carries Revell glue, however it's not an official GW store.

As far as bigger stores like Walmart go, no idea, I'm from Australia. Kmart used to carry plastic kits and glue to go with it in the toys section when I was a kid, but that was yeeeaaaars ago, I'm pretty sure they don't any more.

Your best bet is probably just google "hobby shops" to see what hobby shops are nearby, check that they carry things like plastic models and they'll probably also carry glue (or just ring them).

 Spectral Dragon wrote:

Lord_Ghazghkull wrote:
ive always been a fan of the old model plastic glue with the metal needle tip . and for super glue i use loctite ultra control gel super glue

Some brands still have the metal tips. I believe Model Masters is one of them for plastic cement. It's an offshoot of testors according to this site but the normal testors bottle is a plastic applicator while the model master one is metal. I agree that the metal tip is superior for control of flow and lack of clogging.
http://www.thewarstore.com/product33526.html


Pretty sure overseas folk can get it too from their local hobby shops.

Oh, and while they have great plastic cement, they have terrible paints just to warn.

EDIT:(I have built 4 3000 point armies on one bottle of cement before, so the price is worth it)

This guy has it right. I have bought maybe two bottles of this my entire life, and have built tons of plastic kits with those bottles. Thousands of points worth. It is precise, works fast, and doesn't make your fingers stick together. Not too expensive either... nothing to lose, really! For metals/resin, I like to use greenstuff/CA glue combo for an extra-nice hold. If I am REALLY concerned about the strength of the glue, I use the heavy-duty 5-min two-part epoxy they sell in the automotive section. That stuff makes a tarry mess, but I've never seen a stronger glue.

Roseart PVA costs me 30 cents per 4 oz at my local Wal-Mart (even cheaper when school supplies are on sale) and I never have had a problem with basing or terrain-building.

 FoxPhoenix135 wrote:


Roseart PVA costs me 30 cents per 4 oz at my local Wal-Mart (even cheaper when school supplies are on sale) and I never have had a problem with basing or terrain-building.

Student PVA isn't bad, though for a really good and really affordable PVA, try "Tacky Glue". The most common brand in the USA seems to be Aileens, but it's all the same stuff. It's really thick, but can be thinned with water also. I've been using it for a very long time. It's in most every craft store.