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where can you get the little hatches on the sides of the leman russ tank (behind the sponsons)
i removed the sponsons, but dont have the little hatches to cover up the gaps

they come on the tank sprue, I think the newer kits have them already molded on.

Your best bet, if you don't want to buy a complete kit, is to either find a bitz site, or trade with local gamers in your area. Ebay comes to mind, or perhaps some plasticard? With it being older, they are going to be harder and harder to get.

local gamers dont have any, can you name me some bits sites?
i dont know any

Spikey-Bits, The Bits Store, Battlewagon bits. Yeah, those little doors can be a bit difficult to find (they rarely come up on Ebay as a separate lot), so your best bet is going for bundles of say "Imperial Guard Vehicle Accessories" or the like. =P

im gonna try!


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meh, no luck...

How about finding some tanky bits to cover the holes, maybe make a hatch out of plasticard instead, cover the hole with some of the tank accessory bags or some wound up rope, maybe put a large section of plasticard with rivets and cover it with handles (which I think you get in that leman russ kit) to make it look like a ladder to climb up on the tank, or just put a plasticard panel over it with rivets to make it look like it an armour plate.

You might be able to find the hatches, if you know someone who has been collecting IG for a while they might have some, but if you can't I'm sure you can come up with some other way of covering the holes.

EDIT: Another idea, I think there was a large imperial eagle in that box, you could make a plasticard panel with rivets and glue the imperial eagle on to it.

good idea! but where to buy plasticard?

About a year ago, I took the sponsons off some Russes I got in the swap shop, and had a similar problem. I couldn't find the hatches, the new Russ kit has them molded on, and the Chimera side hatches are too small. Ultimately, I covered them with a trimmed piece of plasticard, and then hung decorative elements (stowage, ornamental shields bearing the unit insignia, etc) over the area to mask the fix. It took a bit of time and effort, but I think it came out really well in the long run. I got my plasticard on ebay, Plastruct is one of the major manufacturers.

what kind of thickness should i buy for it?


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i measured my only original hatch, and its 1,1mm so i think 1 mm is good

Plasticard ("Sheet styrene") is made by both Evergreen and Plastruct and is usually available in better model stores (especially if they deal in the model railway hobby).

Im going to a rlocal railway specialized modelshop tomorrow, hope they have it.
How to make the rivets by the way?

Rivets are a pain. You can try using something to 'punch' the back of the plasticard, like a needle. If you press hard enough to cause a bulge on the front, but not penetrate, it'll look like a rivet.

You can also buy a tiny plastic rod, and slice it thin, like deli-meat. Then use the tiniest drop of glue imaginable to glue it on.

Or you could get a strip of rivets, such as from Zinge. Shave them off and glue them on.
http://zinge.co.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=17_95

 chromedog wrote:
Plasticard ("Sheet styrene") is made by both Evergreen and Plastruct and is usually available in better model stores (especially if they deal in the model railway hobby).

I use this all the time, you can order it online. Get the 0.03" (inch) or 0.5 mm size, any thicker than that is hard to cut and work with. This is what IU am using to build my CRASSUS ARMORED ASSAULT VEHICLE.

wow that looks cool! and 0,5 got it

 Jarl Marius wrote:
Im going to a rlocal railway specialized modelshop tomorrow, hope they have it.
How to make the rivets by the way?

I haven't actually tried myself. It would be fiddly no doubt.

There's a few ways I've heard of doing it. Here's one way...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HMUOTHvJ2U

Another way that I read in the Forgeworld Masterclass book... you know those water filter jugs, they have tons of little balls in them that are the right size for rivets. The method for applying them is to measure out the rivet spacing, mark the rivet locations, then using a small pin drill make a shallow indentation slightly smaller than the diameter of the ball so the balls sit in it nicely and just pick up the balls with the tip of a craft knife and place them in the indentation with a bit of glue. That's the Forgeworld recommended method at least.

we dont have water filter jugs here in the Netherlands i guess? where would you need it for ?

i think i am going to try the youtube way, it seems quite easy

I'd be surprised if you don't have water filter jugs in the Netherlands. Where I grew up the tap water quality was extremely good and you could still go to the shop and buy a water filter jug. If you just google "water filter jug", you'll see what they are.

But yeah, use whichever way you feel is best and will look neat. I was intrigued by the water filter jug method because I thought it might produce the small neat rivets that GW and FW have on a lot of their models, where as most methods I've seen tutorials for have big chunky rivets/bolt heads instead. Though that may not be true either. Personally I'd love to know how GW make their rivets, I think they might actually make the panel flat then press in to the mould rather than trying to make a protrusion on the master.

I see what they are, never seen em here
I think gw,s rvets are just normal plastic mold, should work ok right? Since other plastic models contain such detail

I used Sheet styrene\palsticard to make replacement for mine.

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/catalog/productDetail.jsp?catId=cat440253a&prodId=prod80003a

you're welcome.

If you can't access the link:
GW -> Armies -> IG -> bits -> LEMAN RUSS accessories pack

thanks! though it would get quite expensive, i need it for 3 tanks

those sprues cost 11,50 euro, and a new leman russ is 23,50

I say just build your own, or even just slap banners or something over the hole.

if you can get a pair of track assemblies for E10 off ebay, you have a whole extra tank to pawn off on someone else. I built and extra tank using that frame along with a clever use of other parts. The shame is GW no longer offers wheels and track frames.......

Still, might be worth it. I mean, you're buying half of a tank with that.

How about you take some spare tracks and put over the hole? alot of tanks carry spare tracks on them, in case the ones they are using break. it will look neat and different aswell
and in my experience there is allways alot of spare tracks when you build a Leeman Russ.

 Jensvejmand wrote:
How about you take some spare tracks and put over the hole? alot of tanks carry spare tracks on them, in case the ones they are using break. it will look neat and different aswell
and in my experience there is allways alot of spare tracks when you build a Leeman Russ.

always a lot of spare tracks? what? what kits are you building and where the heck can i get them? The current model gives you only exactly enough tracks, and doesn't even give you the track guards/covers to save up on track segments. I had the old Leman russ tanks and chimeras which came with spares, but I sold those off recently, and I dont know where else you can get oodles of tracks (or wheels) to spare

 poda_t wrote:

always a lot of spare tracks? what? what kits are you building and where the heck can i get them? The current model gives you only exactly enough tracks, and doesn't even give you the track guards/covers to save up on track segments. I had the old Leman russ tanks and chimeras which came with spares, but I sold those off recently, and I dont know where else you can get oodles of tracks (or wheels) to spare

I think the Chimera winds up with some excess. I might be wrong though.

The older kits have extra. I always thought i was building wrong.

Hmm must have been a while since I've last build a Leeman Russ tank then. sorry xD

Yeah, there's definitely a lot of things you could potentially do. Another would be a banner covering the hole. Either from one of the command models modified to be hung from the top, or just a greenstuff one which is torn and weathered.