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So, I recently purchases 2 packs of boneswords, plus a deathleaper model, in conjunction with the larg amounts of paint plus a battleforce I got myself for christmas, and I am having some trouble with the finecast. Like latex, even after painting, the citadel paints want to shrivel, and come off like it has magically obtained a latex like attribute. The simplest rub just removes it in large stretchy patches. I have some chaos black primer sitting on the shelf behind me, and should I start out with that, and then repaint, or is there something more? Also, on a complete side note, is there something I should know about priming in winter? Here in Indiana, theres some snow dregs on the ground, but its still above being in the single digits or what have you.

I've got bad news: it's very hard to strip paint out of Finecast. You may be able to strip the paint, but the resin will absorb some of the liquid and it will bloat. You can spray over your paintjob, I guess, but that will destroy some detail.

Always prime your models. It'll save a lot of headache later on. If conditions are kinda sketchy for spraying, try using brush-on primers like gesso. There are tutorials here on Dakka on how to use them (I personally just use automotive spray primers).

Hope that helps.

It's ok, I have good news. Old Mr. Bristly toothbrush works for free, and removed all the "latex" paint.

Wash in soap and warmish water, let dry completely, prime, paint, profit.

I can't stress the wash enough, finecast seems to come with a lot of release agent.

 Zygrot24 wrote:
..... finecast seems to come with a lot of release agent....

It is not the release agent. The resin is still sweating. Either the resin was not fully mixed, the catalyst ratio's were off, or there was some other sort of contaminate in the resin. This seems to happen often with the FInecast stuff, my guess is in a effort from the manufacturer to shorten production time, more catalyst has been added then should have been.

I have received a lot of fine cast stuff that does this, what I have found that works is;

1. clean, as mentioned it helps some
2. clear coat first with a lacquer based clear sealer, like Testor's Dull Coat. It helps by creating a barrier between the resin and the primer
3. prime
4. paint.

I am not sure what was meant earlier by "bloating" resin, but that is pretty much impossible and that advice should be ignored.

Ashton

I use isopropyl alcohol to strip paint. I tried it on an extra hand of a Sword Brethren, dipped it in and see what happens. The chains on the bolt pistol got fatter (well, everything got fatter) and everything got softer. I assume that it would be the same with any other stripping agent. Of course, I might be wrong but you are free to try it with isopropyl alcohol.

 heartserenade wrote:
I use isopropyl alcohol to strip paint. I tried it on an extra hand of a Sword Brethren, dipped it in and see what happens. The chains on the bolt pistol got fatter (well, everything got fatter) and everything got softer. I assume that it would be the same with any other stripping agent. Of course, I might be wrong but you are free to try it with isopropyl alcohol.

I have heard of isopropyl alcohol melting natural resins, but never anything like you have described. Perhaps this is part of the Finecast problem that they use a natural "non-toxic" resin. The stuff I have used through the years has never reacted poorly w/ any type of alcohol.

Forgeworld resin does not react like that at all, or at least the kind of resin used in FW dreadnoughts.

At least OP, the paint came off with just using a brush.

I've never had this problem with FC, how are you cleaning them and what are you using to prime them? The one time I had an issue with paint doing that was because I was using enamel as a primer.

Actually, I really didn't have real cleaning issue with all the finecast. I used some hot water to help bend a problem sword back into shape, but other than that, I simply used a little cleaner, the kind you can get a dime a dozen, for cleaning between braces, to remove the extra little fuzz, then started applying paint. Thats when I noticed that it was gaining that latex like attribute. There were no oils leaking out of it to cause it to glob up in drops. It went on like normal paint, but give it a few minutes after drying, it started to snap up from tightening at the simplest rub, and it fell off in droves. Now, would you say there are any issues with priming in roughly 30+ degree temperatures? I've got a big ol' can of chaos black that I have leftover from priming my last major group of Tyranids. On paints, I guess I am a bit of a purist. It's all citadel paints. Averland Sunset, Wazdakka Red, Dryad Bark, and Screaming Skull.

When I clean FC, I put a drop of dish soap in a bowl and fill it with lukewarm water. Then I scrub it with my hands, rinse it off, and then let it dry on a paper towel.

As for priming, the brush-on stuff GW has is worthless IMO. You technically can spray-prime in 30-degree weather as long as the model and paint can are warm. The trick is to bring the model back inside to dry, and that the can stays at room temp.

My stepdad does auto body repair and knows quite a bit about paint, so when I started painting I asked him what I should do. Also, ditch the chaos black spraycan and pick up a can of flat black rustoleum. It's thinner and won't destroy details. You can get it for like $3 at lowes or Home Depot.