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Hello there, just a quick question regarding which is more suited for filling gaps on vehicles/large surfaces GS of milliput? I've searched around but just get conflicting views and I've never used milliput myself only GS.

Cheers.

I use greenstuff for large gap filling.

Miliput white

GS doesn't sand as well as other putties like Milliput, Apoxie Sculpt or Brown stuff. Depending on the gap - you might want to look at a modelling putty like Squadron or an automotive putty like 3M Red.

for bigger gaps....wood filler. dirt cheap and works.

For smaller gaps, vallejo model putty, or apoxie scupt.

 Sean_OBrien wrote:
GS doesn't sand as well as other putties like Milliput, Apoxie Sculpt or Brown stuff.

Important point, right there. If you're looking to sculpt the surface to blend things in after the gap is filled, like you might with cloth or organic shapes on troops, GS is great. On vehicles, though, I'd rather be able to sand things flush or file a clean corner (depending on the problem area) - for that, I'll sometimes use CA+baking soda over GS, since I don't have any of the harder putties on hand (or need them frequently enough to warrant their purchase).

 oadie wrote:

 Sean_OBrien wrote:
GS doesn't sand as well as other putties like Milliput, Apoxie Sculpt or Brown stuff.

Important point, right there. If you're looking to sculpt the surface to blend things in after the gap is filled, like you might with cloth or organic shapes on troops, GS is great. On vehicles, though, I'd rather be able to sand things flush or file a clean corner (depending on the problem area) - for that, I'll sometimes use CA+baking soda over GS, since I don't have any of the harder putties on hand (or need them frequently enough to warrant their purchase).

CA?

AllSeeingSkink wrote:

 oadie wrote:

 Sean_OBrien wrote:
GS doesn't sand as well as other putties like Milliput, Apoxie Sculpt or Brown stuff.

Important point, right there. If you're looking to sculpt the surface to blend things in after the gap is filled, like you might with cloth or organic shapes on troops, GS is great. On vehicles, though, I'd rather be able to sand things flush or file a clean corner (depending on the problem area) - for that, I'll sometimes use CA+baking soda over GS, since I don't have any of the harder putties on hand (or need them frequently enough to warrant their purchase).

CA?

Super Glue
_________________

Super glue reacts with something in the baking soda (forget the specific interaction) but the result is something akin to granite. Very hard. Other things get hard just as a result of the super glue - but baking soda gets extremely hard. You can sand it down to a very smooth finish.

Oh, Cyanoacrylate, lol. Never heard it shortened to CA.

AllSeeingSkink wrote:
Oh, Cyanoacrylate, lol. Never heard it shortened to CA.

Same.

To OP: I'd go for GS; on my Necron Monolith it already had enough gaps without 10yo me making it worse, so I broke it apart and had to sand some of the glue in the process so I'm using GS to fill in the gaps on it as it just looks smoother than something you might use for large scale gap filling.

I've used various putties such as Milliput. Green Stuff is the worst, for the reasons mentioned above.

If you want a really good finish, Squadron or Milliput, sanded, then finished with a skim of Mr Surfacer or thinned Milliput will do the job. Liquid Green Stuff probably does the same job of filling tiny imperfections.

I haven't tried Superglue + talcum powder. The putties work fine for me.

Tamiya White Putty for small gaps.

Milliput for large gaps.

Both can be sanded. The combo is just awesome.

Just to add a comment on what *not* to use, Liquid Green Stuff is terribad for anything I've tried to use it for, and the worst thing ever for filling gaps. I found even just filling it with super glue did a better job than LGS.

I'm sure it has a use, or they wouldn't sell it, right?.... right?
But for the life of me I can't find it.

 Purifier wrote:
Just to add a comment on what *not* to use, Liquid Green Stuff is terribad for anything I've tried to use it for, and the worst thing ever for filling gaps. I found even just filling it with super glue did a better job than LGS.

I'm sure it has a use, or they wouldn't sell it, right?.... right?
But for the life of me I can't find it.

I have found it is great for surface imperfections. Rather than gaps etc...

It's not a huge gap maybe a mm or 2 at the most, but it is near a corner specifically the rear compartment (side/back) of my Valkyrie. Also i do prefer to let stuff dry then sand it down for a smooth finish rather than try to get the result from the start. The other problem is my local stores don't seem to have a great deal of choice and i'd rather not order online for something so small, other than GW store the only place nearby is Modelzone and they do do milliput.

 Rusty Robot wrote:

 Purifier wrote:
Just to add a comment on what *not* to use, Liquid Green Stuff is terribad for anything I've tried to use it for, and the worst thing ever for filling gaps. I found even just filling it with super glue did a better job than LGS.

I'm sure it has a use, or they wouldn't sell it, right?.... right?
But for the life of me I can't find it.

I have found it is great for surface imperfections. Rather than gaps etc...

Even filling bubbles in resin, if it's a flat surface I've noticed the liquid green stuff will still shrink a lot, leading to 'dimples'.

I mostly use normal Green Stuff for straight gaps on vehicles. Combined with a modelling tool I usually managed to smooth it straight along the edges of whatever gap I'm filling.

Aves Apoxie Sculpt. It's a lot cheaper than most of the other options and it works perfectly for filling gaps, especially as it's sandable, dries quite hard and durable and takes paint perfectly.

I've only used Milliput or the superglue and baking soda. Milliput works good, but I've found that it does stick very well to the plastic, so I end up having to superglue it in place once I've sanded it down. Otherwise works great. I only use the super glue and baking soda for smaller cracks or imperfections.

 Shandara wrote:
IEven filling bubbles in resin, if it's a flat surface I've noticed the liquid green stuff will still shrink a lot, leading to 'dimples'.

I've always required a few layers. Fortunately, when you are working with LGS this thin it dries very quickly, allowing you to layer very quickly. I've had some issue with perfect levelling when working with regular green stuff, so I prefer LGS in this use.