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Hi guys.

So im finally finishing the first units of my crimson fist army. The only thing left is to add the decal transfers on the shoulder pads. However iv tryed atleast 5 or 6 times and still have the same problem of the decal not laying flat on the shoulder pad. Iv already got both the GW ardcoat and lahmian paint and followed what to do with them and yet still having the same issue. For the love of god can somebody please advise me on how do it the correct way so i get a nice flat and even finish.

Thanks in advance guys, i know you will settle this score

Microscale Industries make an awesome setting solution called Micro Set that can really help - but not necessary.

I would describe how to use it but I literally just watched a video of OrkPainterNerd using it so check it out here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=RckNMlvyjKo#!

Skip to around 13:30.

Nice 1 rusty robot.

Iv seen a few references to it but thats about. Il give this link a view.

Microsol and Microset .. saved me a world of pain with my custom decals.

Generally, to get a decal to conform to a non-flat surface you need two things. Especially on a surface which curves on two axes.

Decal softener (Micro-sol) and a setting solution (micro set).

Gloss varnish on the surface first, THEN apply decal, softening solution, when dry, setting solution, more gloss, then matt varnish to lock it all in.

@ chromedog. Excuse my ignorance on the matter and if you've already clearly stated in your helpful response, but does my ardcoat and lahmian come into the mix in that case or are both these now redundant?

'Ardcoat is a passable gloss varnish for decalling.

@ winterdyne ok i thought as much. It seems that its a decal softner im missing as thats my biggest problem. The decal not layin flat.

I've had the exact same problem as you, I got some succes in applying crimsno fist decal by using a scapel.

After applying the Hardcoat and place the decal, use your sharpest scapel and do slight cuts on the edge of the decal in the chaos star patern. Should help spread out the decal and make it stick better

Slitting the decal as Halmyr suggests is the only way to get it to conform to a complex curve without using a solvent. The more complex the design, though, the more likely overlapping the decal at the slits is going to disrupt the image. I recommend using a decal softener, instead. As long as you're patient, it's pretty much foolproof.

this is the best guide ever written on the topic

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&cad=rja&ved=0CEUQFjAB&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.winterdyne.co.uk%2Fmaz%2Fwinterdyne_tutorial3.pdf&ei=dA7-ULydH4rhiwKZ8YCwDw&usg=AFQjCNGb1UUetM2YWEnkF4MM5rw1X2hHEQ&bvm=bv.41248874,d.cGE

Aw, thanks.

Nice 1 guys. You've def come thro with the goods. As an update i found me some of the micro set and sol on ebay for dirt cheap so im gonna give that a try.

@ Oadie thanks, i have concidered that. I tryed many years ago when i still had next to little skill and more importantly no patience. So this time arpund im a little more prepared. Mind you these are my 1st complete figures painted in around 10-15 years......maybe ever ha!!! Not that im that slow, just to a rather large break from hobbying. This time around, everything seems more enjoyable..........we didnt have dakka back then either!!!!

 chromedog wrote:
Generally, to get a decal to conform to a non-flat surface you need two things. Especially on a surface which curves on two axes.

Decal softener (Micro-sol) and a setting solution (micro set).

Gloss varnish on the surface first, THEN apply decal, softening solution, when dry, setting solution, more gloss, then matt varnish to lock it all in.

THIS ^
I use ALMOST this exact procedure for my decals on curved surfaces, and it woks great.

and yes, the ardcoat can be one of the varnish steps, but personally, I prefer a liquitex gloss for the gloss steps ...and testors acryl matte for the final matte coating.

best of luck.